XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

I've had my lowering stuff sitting around for a LONG time now and want to get this stuff on. I figure maybe one night this week I'll dig into it.

I've got 2" lower control arms for the front and 4" hotchkis springs for the rear. The rear springs look easy enough but, I've never messed with control arms before. Any parts I'll have to replace or is it just unbolt the stock one and bolt the new one back up? I've got a spring compressor any other tools necessary?

With the new SS wheels this thing is gonna look tough lowered a bit. I'm a little concerned about the tires rubbing on the top of the fenders though since they are so MASSIVE! 275/55/20's With the 2/4 drop there will only be 1" of clearance between the fender lip and the tires on all four corners, that seems kinda close. Whatcha think?

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Gonna look good, forget about clearances.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Hey Tex

Those SS wheels are 25lbs heavier EACH than those Tahoe rims I had. I could really feel the difference 100lbs of rotating mass made.

PS - It looks good already even with the skyjacker wheels on it.

GMC SKI

DO you wanna Keep the Front Springs ?
If you don't cut them out much easier than using the spring compressor
I forgot my Wheel lock key when i dropped my truck off
The suspension shop guys put the Front hotchis springs in without taking the wheels Off

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

If you use that compressor, the wrap a chain thru the spring to the frame tight because I have heard of one guy on here who almost broke his shoulder when the compressor broke and the spring hit him

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Let me ask this. What if I just put the chain through the spring and put a lock on the chain. I'd wrap it up good so the chain couldn't slip around. Then have a jack under the control arm and let it down easy once the spindle is unbolted. That should work right?

Then I could just reverse the process reinstalling everything.

Jim - I want to keep the springs because I only want to drop it 2" which the control arms will do. I remember you telling me about the animals at your suspension shop.

Cash - Why'd you have to say that.

sleepersilverado

iTrader: (1)

Ok i am not understanding the need for the spring compressor. seems like a dangerous thing that is not needed. I dont want to sound like a bad *** but i have lowered 2 or 3 trucks. just put the front on jack stands. take the wheels off and with the control arms hanging all the way down there is little to no spring pressure. so little that when reinstsalling it you can push it up with your knee. so i will tell you now that a ball joint fork will not work with out modifications and it is a pita. just let every thing hang and place a jack under the lower control arm about a inch from touching it. Take the nut off holding the lca to the spindle ans hit the spindle with a hammer. there is a flat spot on the spindle. it will pop and the jack will catch the lca from just dropping. now when re installing support the lca on the jack and jack it up into pos. guiding the spindle and spring to the correct location.

i have never used the hammer hitting the spindle method but was told it worked and i can tel you the the ball joint fork is a MAJOR pita. i will have to look but believe there is a flat spot/ear sticking out were you hit it.

now for the back easy BUT you will have to drop the tank a little to get the bolt out of the drivers side hanger. not too bad just have little fuel to make it easier. you don't have to drop it far just enough for the bolt to clear. i put my bolt back in the opposite way so in the future i would not have to drop the tank again.

last i dont think you will have a prob with rubbing if the top of you tire is a inch gap with the finder lip. now as far as turning i dont know. o lowered my truck 4-4 and the front tire 285/60-16 on stock wheel is about even with the finder lip. only have probs when haulin a$$ and hit big bumps.

hope this helps if you have any ?? just let me know i have ran into most of the probs you could have.

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

I personaly would not go with that combo. That is going to give you a bouncy ride in front with a really stiff rear. The hotchkis coils are perfect for the front. If I were going to mismatch I would use the hotchkis coils in front and a shackle/hanger/stock leafs in back.
But to answer you original question, there is no need for a compressor. The suspension is designed well so when the lca is lowered it completely releases tension on the spring. Sleeper is correct though, the ball joints are a pita so be prepared. Since you are swaping you lcas there is no way around it. If you were changing coils you could unbolt the lca from the back and slide the springs in/out that way so you wouldn't have to mess with the ball joints.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

BigKID - How do the Hotchkis front coils ride? I don't want a bouncy ride. I want the suspension to feel tight. A semi harsh ride won't bother me at all.

The 20" wheels hurt straight line performance but, the truck feels ALOT better in the turns now(which I like). Since I drive so much I'd like to set the suspension up more for the street than track.

PS- Thanks everyone for the tips. One way or the other I should have it lowered by this weekend.

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

Like I said before, the Hotchiks coil are perfect for the front. The stiffer spring really helps with the front weight of the trucks. The front handles bumps very well but itis in the rear where I get the harshness. I also have slaim-air load assist bags in the rear that helps the ride alot. After about a year my leafs started saging a bit and would bottom out very easily. The bags solved that problem.