TXsilverado 2.0 Build Thread
Dec 19, 2013 | 09:58 PM
#472
soooo yeah. remember me talking about OCD and ADD. went to replace the fuel pressure regulator, and this is the final product:
before:
after:
the fucked up part is that the new FPR didnt help with the cold starts. guess it's time to check the fuel pressure. i was really hoping the pump would hold on another 15k or so....
also, it has exhaust manifold leaks when cold. could this cause a long crank before starting?
before:
after:
the fucked up part is that the new FPR didnt help with the cold starts. guess it's time to check the fuel pressure. i was really hoping the pump would hold on another 15k or so....
also, it has exhaust manifold leaks when cold. could this cause a long crank before starting?
Dec 19, 2013 | 10:05 PM
#473
No. But try this in the morning...
Go out and turn the key on to light up the gauges. Wait for a 2 count til pump kicks off, turn the key back off, then a 5 count and then turn the key on wait for the fuel pump to shut off. THEN try to start it. I always did that with my S-10 for the fuel injection because the pressure would bleed down to nothing.
You could try swapping out the fuel filter first and see if that helps, if you haven't already.
If that doesn't help, then its time to go into the tank. Which is not really all that hard if you just lift the bed. Loosen the passenger side bolts, then go back in for 2 full turns on those, then take out the drivers side bolts. Grab the cherry picker and a strap, run it through the stake pocket, and lift it on up, just remember to unbolt the filler neck, and unplug the tail light harness at the back of the frame.
You can change the pump and sock in about 40 minutes once you get it up high enough to have easy access. If you have the filter off, you can grab the air hose and give the feed line a good blast while the filter is off.
Go out and turn the key on to light up the gauges. Wait for a 2 count til pump kicks off, turn the key back off, then a 5 count and then turn the key on wait for the fuel pump to shut off. THEN try to start it. I always did that with my S-10 for the fuel injection because the pressure would bleed down to nothing.
You could try swapping out the fuel filter first and see if that helps, if you haven't already.
If that doesn't help, then its time to go into the tank. Which is not really all that hard if you just lift the bed. Loosen the passenger side bolts, then go back in for 2 full turns on those, then take out the drivers side bolts. Grab the cherry picker and a strap, run it through the stake pocket, and lift it on up, just remember to unbolt the filler neck, and unplug the tail light harness at the back of the frame.
You can change the pump and sock in about 40 minutes once you get it up high enough to have easy access. If you have the filter off, you can grab the air hose and give the feed line a good blast while the filter is off.
Dec 19, 2013 | 10:20 PM
#478
Dec 19, 2013 | 10:45 PM
#479
No. But try this in the morning...
Go out and turn the key on to light up the gauges. Wait for a 2 count til pump kicks off, turn the key back off, then a 5 count and then turn the key on wait for the fuel pump to shut off. THEN try to start it. I always did that with my S-10 for the fuel injection because the pressure would bleed down to nothing.
You could try swapping out the fuel filter first and see if that helps, if you haven't already.
If that doesn't help, then its time to go into the tank. Which is not really all that hard if you just lift the bed. Loosen the passenger side bolts, then go back in for 2 full turns on those, then take out the drivers side bolts. Grab the cherry picker and a strap, run it through the stake pocket, and lift it on up, just remember to unbolt the filler neck, and unplug the tail light harness at the back of the frame.
You can change the pump and sock in about 40 minutes once you get it up high enough to have easy access. If you have the filter off, you can grab the air hose and give the feed line a good blast while the filter is off.
Go out and turn the key on to light up the gauges. Wait for a 2 count til pump kicks off, turn the key back off, then a 5 count and then turn the key on wait for the fuel pump to shut off. THEN try to start it. I always did that with my S-10 for the fuel injection because the pressure would bleed down to nothing.
You could try swapping out the fuel filter first and see if that helps, if you haven't already.
If that doesn't help, then its time to go into the tank. Which is not really all that hard if you just lift the bed. Loosen the passenger side bolts, then go back in for 2 full turns on those, then take out the drivers side bolts. Grab the cherry picker and a strap, run it through the stake pocket, and lift it on up, just remember to unbolt the filler neck, and unplug the tail light harness at the back of the frame.
You can change the pump and sock in about 40 minutes once you get it up high enough to have easy access. If you have the filter off, you can grab the air hose and give the feed line a good blast while the filter is off.
as for the fuel pump job, done it quite a few times. i've had the beds off of silverados more times than i like to count! it's more of a PITA than a hard job. especially with a wrecked back. a delphi assy is up around 375 now days. i dont trust any of the aftermarket **** that vatozone and oreily pushes when it comes to the fuel pump. this is supposed to be my cheap beater!
i called a member on the site to go buy this s10 because i didnt want a new project....but i couldnt pass a fresh paint and body truck for $800. looking back, i should have let montecarloss buy the truck. i'd be rich!not bad for my 2,500 beater. i think it needs a 6" lift on some 18" wheels and 35" tires. maybe once the s10 is finished and the bugs are worked. it still needs a lil TLC before that. some PDR work and a few minor scratches buffed. there are a few scratches that i know will not come out but oh well. i got a lot more than what i paid for.
if you're thinking of something cheaper/different, i'm all ears.
