Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

Oh I am sure it can get as expensive, it all depends on your goals. The biggest thing I see is, once you get the truck (vehcicle) to a certain point, you have what you have. Then you maintain tires and brakes after that, no special fuels and not as much chance blowing something up.. With drag racing it seemed like to me, I was always dropping more $$ into a hole and ended up with less seat time. Drag racing is harder on the vehicle and autocrossing is harder on the driver.

The average autocross run is anywhere from 50-70 seconds long. While some of the results in autocrossing depend on your hardware, a lot more depends on the driver. I prefer autocross a lot more than drag racing from the stand point of overall cost to seat time ratio.

Damn man, I read all 8+ pages of that last night... You're a wildman for taking on 2 projects at once. I'm glad the GF is on board with it that has to make it easier!

I recently moved, and my previous region was all parking lot events with tight courses etc., courses that were suited better for WRXs, EVOs, and Miatas. The guys here in my new region run semi-frequently on part of the course at MIR like I posted in my videos.. That made me aware that I am down on power to weight ratio, so now I am itching to build a torque monster 6L, but my 4.8L with 156k on it was feeling a bit anemic for sure. Damn I need to plant that money tree...

Also, as a result of your thread, I am re-thinking my intent to install a rear swaybar. For the most part my truck handles ~~pretty neutral~~ there are some minor tweaks to be made that will help, but if I put on a rear bar it will over steer.. I'm going to reserve my final decision until I run a tighter course.

However, related to the front swaybar I see you tried the stock swaybar, belltech swaybar and now you're onto the hotchkis front bar. I never saw any determination about the hotchkis bar after it was installed. I saw the issues with the other two bars in the posted videos. Any thoughts on the hotchkis bar?

Also, I'm digging what you did with the square 8 wheels.. What's really crazy is, that is sort of the color I was looking at to put on my wheels or a grey gunmetal! The black wheel paint is too overplayed IMO and I'm tired of looking at it. I think I will actually get a set dedicated to the track, and another set for the street. I just wish there were more choices available for these trucks.

Last question, you said you didn't like the 315 rubber... Was it too wide and didn't really help? or was it just the overall height ? I think it would be excellent for track use to run them, then switch to street rubber before ya leave the event.. That is my goal. I want to know if other than the height you had another reason to not like it before I drop the coin on a set.. I was also thinking of 315 all the way around for my truck, since its a set for the events I wouldn't have to live with it on a daily basis..

Thanks for answering questions and awesome build(s) you have going on!!

Oh and I am jealous of the T-56 swap, I don't have that option in my truck because its 4WD...

GM1697

iTrader: (1)

Look into hydroboost... you'll be impressed

I'm surprised the truck liked being in 4wd, my truck on pavement hates taking turns.

Steve-O-08

iTrader: (5)

Yeah taking o two projects at the same time isn't advised haha.

Don't write off your 4.8 yet. Claudia's truck is a 4.8 and she can still hang with my truck. The power will help you, but maxing out what you have now would be easier in my opinion. Gearing would be one of the best upgrades before power.

As for the sway bar. I had always wanted the Hotchkis Bar. I had gotten a rear bar when I first got my truck and I'd been looking for a matching front ever since. The Hotchkis bar is 1 1/2" where the Belltech bar was the same diameter as stock but it was solid. (heavier). I am still working to get our bars back in to production. I actually work for Hotchkis and getting them back isn't as easy as ordering a couple sets.

The only reason I got away from the Rivals was sizing (Diameter) I would love to go as wide as possible, but not at the cost of ground clearance. The 315's are only 25.5" tall. And to be drive-able I need at least something in the 27-28" range. If you don't mind swapping them you could always do a track only set, but swapping tires when you get to the track will get old.

Both trucks will have a lot coming soon (hopefully) So keep an eye on the thread.

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

Good news ! Just got the notification my personalized plate from TN has been approved, that will be going on when I get it, no handling improvement, but hey..

Oh I am very familar with Hydroboost, it just hasn't been installed yet.. It eventually will, but the stock brake system wasn't going to deal well with repeated stops from high(er) speeds ..... brake fade..... the CTS-V caliper/rotor setup was actually intended for my Avalanche that was a heavy bitch.. I designed it for that, and actually had 2 sets of brackets made and never installed either set.. So one is going on this truck.

Are you referring to 4Hi or Auto 4WD when you say it doesn't like running? I was surprised at how flawless it was in Auto 4WD. The truck was very stable and it was seemless power with virtually no slipping other than off the line until the front axle engaged. No creaks, groans or complaints.. I have a Silverado SS TCase (NP149) to install but damn.. This will let me push that off a bit until it starts to complain.

I hear what you're saying, and to be honest, if I was to build an engine then the transmission will crap, so for the time being.. It's best just to roll with what I have, now that I know this is a viable platform with the already completed suspension mods, it will just be picking away at it accomplishing things as time and funds allow.. I'd have to do 2 sets of gears, that's pretty spendy and I do daily the truck from time to time and I'm 30 mi from work so I think I may regret getting super steep gears..

Man that would be awesome !! I hope it happens. I'd definitely be in for a bar if they brought it back.. I've been playing around with the idea of the Hellwig bars, I had them on my Avalanche and loved them, but they don't give them away and they are heavy..

I hear what you're saying, right now my truck is a street truck first, autocross beast 2nd... I don't want to own a purpose built or single use only vehicle.. Hell I even had a provision when I put the 4 link in that they install airbags as part of it so that I can still use the truck as a truck !! Right now they are at ZERO PSI and basically dead weight but hauling a load is only an air chuck away. The cool thing about swapping wheels is, the bed is plenty big that I could throw them in it with a floor jack and bring my battery impact to swap them out, snug them down and roll.. Wouldn't be bad I dont think.

That's awesome man, I sub'ed on that thread so I should get the notifications.

In other news, today I ordered 2 sets of Eibach coils (one set each for the front and one set for the rear). The rear spring rate was waaaay high, like 150# too much, and the front springs are supposed to be around 1100-1300, I have 650# springs currently installed (my mistake ordering them). So I am righting my wrong on the coils and hopefully going to be able to dial this thing in a whole lot better and level it out.

I honestly can't believe that it drove so well at the autocross. With my luck, I probably hit on some stupid offbeat combo that worked well.. Putting the recommended springs in on all four corners will make it handle like ***..

Apparently spring rate coils that high are a bit of a unicorn..Nobody had the 1200# rate springs in a pair. Most didnt even stock it, or they didnt have a pair.. Amazon says 1-3 month delivery, Summit was backordered until first week of March.. Jegs didn't even show they knew what a coil spring was Ugh.. I found a vendor in CA that actually picked up the phone and verified stock with Eibach, and at $64/ea it wasn't too awfully bad. Hopefully they should be here within a week as they are being drop shipped direct from Eibach. I'll be sure to update when I get them installed...

Thanks again everyone for your insight and suggestions, I do appreciate it. I'm finally happy to have a project car again, and time to install the parts and thrash it when I am done !

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Hyperco 7b1200, or hyperco 7b1300. Google is your friend

Or just replace the 7 with whatever length you need.

Choda

iTrader: (1)

Nice job man, you have some skills

Steve-O-08

iTrader: (5)

I've got 1200lb Eibach's for the front of mine. No springs for the rear because I've still got the leafs in there. I am working on a rear set up, but I didn't want the truck to be down for this upcoming season.

Did you have 650's in the rear too?

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

It's funny you mention that, because their 2017 Catalog that is on their website doesn't refer to those part#s. Bastards, they probably updated the current catalog and revised the part#s They actually say that equivalent spring would be 187B1200 or 187B1300. Anyhow, I saw the part#s that you mentioned after I ordered the Eibachs yesterday

I used the calculator on hypercoils website to determine that my suggested spring rate is 1274# and I need an 8" coil length. Their website has a really helpful calculator that I've been using Automotive Spring Rate Calculator (I think it was mentioned in your thread somewhere during the reading I did but I had forgotten about it).

Because I want street manners 1st and autocross skills 2nd, I went a little light on my spring selection. I am subscribing to the 'softer springs & big swaybar' mentality so I went with a 1200# spring

The problem wasn't really the part# issue, it was finding someone who had it on the shelf, all the major suppliers i checked didn't, but i have a set coming now so its all good !

You sir, may need to have your judgement checked.. LOL I am no Mario Andretti. I'm just out there caveman'ing it in a truck and killing the cones !

Yeah the 1200# spring is what I ordered yesterday..

When you get Hotchkis to start making the front bars again then I'll order one, or I may go this route, I haven't decided:
Sway Bars and Parts

No. 350# Springs.. 650# would be insanely heavy rate for the rear! I have a 12" 350# spring in there now.. The calculators are showing that I need around a 275# spring which makes sense because I can set Compression and Rebound BOTH to ZERO on my Viking shocks and the ride doesn't change.. The shock is basically along for the ride with the 350# springs.. There is still some compression if I put some weight on the bumper or hit a bump but IMO its too stiff (my airbags are deflated btw).

With all that said, I elected to go with a 225# rate spring in the rear, we'll see how this works out.. The reason I went a little lighter is for the same reason as the fronts.. More suspension compliance and I can always 'help' them out a bit if I want by putting a small amount of air in the rear airbags.


I hear ya, and that is a wise choice..I'd highly recommend a 4 link and coilovers.. The movement that it frees up in the rear suspension is awesome. I suspect in your truck you may even benefit more than I would because you'll be able to plant the rear end better, whereas I have the front axle helping 'pull' the truck along when the rear steps out..

JSM used my truck as the 'prototype' to design and establish his Silverado 4 link kit. They have built a lot of 3 link and 4 link kits for the Syclone/Typhoon guys.. The Silverado kit is intended to be installed as a 'bolt' on kit after you remove the OEM leaf spring stuff.

After installing the kit, JSM recommends welding the 4 link brackets to the axle tubes only, and only after they are correctly placed. This is done because there is no definite 'sure fire' way to prevent rotation of the axle tube within the 4 link brackets under high load.

All the other brackets are bolt in place, often using the factory locations. I don't see why a person of your abilities couldn't strip the factory stuff OFF, and install this kit in a weekend or two.. Then drive it to a place and have the axle tube brackets welded to ensure they don't move. Anyhow just my $0.02.

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

So while parts are still trickling in.. I decided I'll post up some pics from last Sunday's autocross event. The local SCCA group has a gal that likes to come out and snap some photos for us. She posts 'em up for us to download... Anyhow I got some good 'action' shots of Diabla doing work.....







I have parts coming to do the eFans conversion, that will probably get started this weekend and I received notification that the springs have been shipped from Eibach so it's probably going to be the following weekend for the spring swappero...

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Yea heavier springs will certainly help with that body roll. Sweet pics though!