What, No pictures?

Not sure on the power seat issue but check the door for the switch issue.

Remove the panel and check the plug to make sure the connector is seated properly. Physically remove the connector and check the pins. I have seen this when people open them up and have done it once myself. The connector does not seat properly and or possibly bends 1 of the pins over. I know the heated and seat memory switch also plugs into the Window switch.

It's possible that the switch is also bad.

 

Pictures along with an itimised expense list are at the bottom of the first post. I will have to put some updated ones in now that the front end is almost all on.

As for the switch, thanks for the info. I will start with the connecting the hood ground, then pull off the door panel and go from there. When I first picked it up from the salvage yard it was acting up. Then after I towed it 700 miles home it was working properly until yesterday evening. I have already checked all the connectors for tightness, but not bent pins.

Will keep you all updated.

 

Well, I spent last night researching cams and I think it is between texas speed 220 and 224 with 112-114 duration for cam.

Pretty decided on a Hughes 2500ish stall and 70 trim t4.

 

The switch issue sounds like a short sonehwere between wires,stating the obvious i know, but often times little stiff gets overlooked....

 

Biggest I would go is the 220R with a 112 LSA. That cam is big enough that 114 would make it a dog with the tall 1st gear. Considering the extra power you have from boost I would seriously go with the 212/218 with a 112 LSA. The extra peak from the 220R might not be worth it. I have in my truck what I consider to be a big cam for a 5.3 (226/226) and even with the torque heavy 111 LSA and super low 4.88s I feel like i'm maxed out. I think you'd be very happy with the 212/218 LSA 112 with a 70mm pushing it.

 

I agree it is either the switch or a short/grounding issue. I always like to start simple and work out.

 

Once again, really appreciate your insight. I agree with your reasoning, at the end of the day that 220R would be the better application. Now time to start saving....maybe this Holiday season will bring about some good sales around new years

 

I meant pictures of the updated progress.

I get some of my vehicles from Copart as well.

 

It was late (dark) and rainy and I was soaked, tired and brain dead from working on the truck in the PNW cold rain all day.

I will get some updated pics up soon. Nothing fancy.....yet. Eventually I will start powdercoating and painting underhood items and lots of other detailing goodies inside and out.

I have to address the frame and will do some bed liner on the rockers in factory match. Already picked out a product, just cant remember the name of it. As for rust proofing the frame...still open on that one.

But until then, just plugging away at getting it back together to pass inspection.

I bought this rig through IAAI, it was my first one, but all of my family does it all the time and prefer IAAI over COPART...but I keep my eye on both of them. I was actually surprised after I looked around how many people buy salvaged rigs. I plan on buying a k2500 to swap over the drivetrain minus engine and then sell all un-used parts to recoup. Then that money will go to furthering the trucks development...probably a lift and tires or a turbo if I haven't gotten that far by then.

 

I buy from both.

I am working on a theft recovery right now using a rollover for most of the donner parts.

Just don't have enough spare time.