Project Purple Frost - 2000 Silverado RCSB
#11
Yeah - I think it's not going to go to the frame shop.
It has just affected the gap at the lower part of the fender where it meets the door. I shoved it in at the bottom but the door fender gap goes from 3/16 inch at top to a bit over 1/2 inch at bottom. I had to shim the new fender up at the back - so the issue could be the new fender, but not sure.
Picture isn't great -
This is the only gap that is out - everything else lines up good. Well the hood gap is a bit wide on this side also but that should be easy fix.
It has just affected the gap at the lower part of the fender where it meets the door. I shoved it in at the bottom but the door fender gap goes from 3/16 inch at top to a bit over 1/2 inch at bottom. I had to shim the new fender up at the back - so the issue could be the new fender, but not sure.
Picture isn't great -
This is the only gap that is out - everything else lines up good. Well the hood gap is a bit wide on this side also but that should be easy fix.
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GTOmike06 (12-18-2023)
#13
OK -
So my thinking was if the frame rail is pushed up a bit it's affecting the mount (#5). The new front fender mounts up really good and I was thinking I could just shave down the rubber mount (#6) which would lower the radiator mount (#1).
This would move the front fender mounting points down a bit (like 3/16 inch) and should close the gap at the lower part of the fender /door.
That way I wouldn't have to get the frame straightened or use a BFH to pound the mount down a bit.
What do you think?
The frame can only be out by 1/4 inch max - it's not visible when you look at the truck. Hood doesn't look crooked.
Also wonder what the old farmer ran into? Tree? Moose? Fence Post? Stop Sign.......
So my thinking was if the frame rail is pushed up a bit it's affecting the mount (#5). The new front fender mounts up really good and I was thinking I could just shave down the rubber mount (#6) which would lower the radiator mount (#1).
This would move the front fender mounting points down a bit (like 3/16 inch) and should close the gap at the lower part of the fender /door.
That way I wouldn't have to get the frame straightened or use a BFH to pound the mount down a bit.
What do you think?
The frame can only be out by 1/4 inch max - it's not visible when you look at the truck. Hood doesn't look crooked.
Also wonder what the old farmer ran into? Tree? Moose? Fence Post? Stop Sign.......
#14
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
I think it's your truck and it's your choice. I have seen all kinds "repairs"...
But Before you do anything, I would recommend getting that bumper bracket and mocking everything up with a good bumper first to make sure you have enough adjustment to get everything else to line up.
But Before you do anything, I would recommend getting that bumper bracket and mocking everything up with a good bumper first to make sure you have enough adjustment to get everything else to line up.
#15
TECH Resident
OP, I got into a fender bender a few years ago on my suburban. This girl didn't look both ways and I plowed into her when she she came from her stop sign. Luckily I didn't have any body damage, but my bumper got damaged.
Last year my truck developed a popping sound I thought was from the suspension. I changed everything and the popping sound was still there. It turns out my radiator support got bent! I loosened my radiator and adjusted it a bit and the popping sound is gone. It's part 1 on that diagram. Now I just have a little faint squeak. I want to fix it but I'm pretty sure I need to remove the AC condenser and evacuate the refrigerant and I don't want to do that right now. I would remove the grill, headlights and poke around to see if anything else is bent.
Last year my truck developed a popping sound I thought was from the suspension. I changed everything and the popping sound was still there. It turns out my radiator support got bent! I loosened my radiator and adjusted it a bit and the popping sound is gone. It's part 1 on that diagram. Now I just have a little faint squeak. I want to fix it but I'm pretty sure I need to remove the AC condenser and evacuate the refrigerant and I don't want to do that right now. I would remove the grill, headlights and poke around to see if anything else is bent.
#16
I bought a wrecked 90s Silverado that had a bent frame in the front like that, but it was probably much worse. I cut off the front core support/bumper mount and welded it about 1 1/2 to 2 inches lower on the bent side and that made the fender and grille line up good. You wouldn't know that section was bent by driving it or even really by looking at it from a short distance. The IFS can compensate for some messed up stuff.... lol
Your idea will probably work, shortening the body mount on that corner, but 1FastBrick does have a good idea to mock up the bumper and other parts in front to make sure they won't be misaligned.
Your idea will probably work, shortening the body mount on that corner, but 1FastBrick does have a good idea to mock up the bumper and other parts in front to make sure they won't be misaligned.
#17
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
OP, I got into a fender bender a few years ago on my suburban. This girl didn't look both ways and I plowed into her when she she came from her stop sign. Luckily I didn't have any body damage, but my bumper got damaged.
Last year my truck developed a popping sound I thought was from the suspension. I changed everything and the popping sound was still there. It turns out my radiator support got bent! I loosened my radiator and adjusted it a bit and the popping sound is gone. It's part 1 on that diagram. Now I just have a little faint squeak. I want to fix it but I'm pretty sure I need to remove the AC condenser and evacuate the refrigerant and I don't want to do that right now. I would remove the grill, headlights and poke around to see if anything else is bent.
Last year my truck developed a popping sound I thought was from the suspension. I changed everything and the popping sound was still there. It turns out my radiator support got bent! I loosened my radiator and adjusted it a bit and the popping sound is gone. It's part 1 on that diagram. Now I just have a little faint squeak. I want to fix it but I'm pretty sure I need to remove the AC condenser and evacuate the refrigerant and I don't want to do that right now. I would remove the grill, headlights and poke around to see if anything else is bent.
The upper bar is removable from the core support as is the front triangle piece.
If you can get the correct core support for your truck, you can remove the radiator, Pull the upper tie bar and un-bolt the condenser and slip the condenser up out of its lower mounts and pull the core support. Then swap the new one over and re assemble.
I left out alot of steps but you get the idea.
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strutaeng (08-20-2023)
#18
So this weekend - fixed the cruise control by attaching the cable. Fixed the window washer pump. Fixed the tailgate handle with a wrecker part. Welded the driver bumper bracket and attached the bumper. New swaybar links.
It looks like a truck now.
The steering is loose - I can jack the truck up and move the wheels side to side with my hands at 3 and 9 o'clock. I think the tie rods are good. Have to jack it up and get a better look.
It looks like a truck now.
The steering is loose - I can jack the truck up and move the wheels side to side with my hands at 3 and 9 o'clock. I think the tie rods are good. Have to jack it up and get a better look.
Last edited by GoodManners; 08-20-2023 at 08:42 PM.
#19
This weekend - new window.
Also fixed the trailer plug - old one was full of dirt and corroded. Then I updated the stereo to a double DIN and added a backup camera so hitching trailer will be easier - not to mention backing up is now easier.
Steering is really loose - still need to fix.
Also fixed the trailer plug - old one was full of dirt and corroded. Then I updated the stereo to a double DIN and added a backup camera so hitching trailer will be easier - not to mention backing up is now easier.
Steering is really loose - still need to fix.