Project "Grandpa truck". Turbo RCSB
#62
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Blown,
What brand blades are you using? And, what model saw?
Lenox blades seem to last pretty long with me. I cut between .0625 up to .250 SS tubing, round and square.
Oh, I forgot to mention. There is also a proper break in procedure as well. I typically just cut away but use care when making your first few cuts, especially with SS.
What brand blades are you using? And, what model saw?
Lenox blades seem to last pretty long with me. I cut between .0625 up to .250 SS tubing, round and square.
Oh, I forgot to mention. There is also a proper break in procedure as well. I typically just cut away but use care when making your first few cuts, especially with SS.
#64
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Nice saw
I think you'll be a lot happier with Lenox blades and there performance and longevity.
There's a few site you can go to but, I'd suggest Lenox direct to get exactly what you're looking then find a dealer local or online for a better price. Maybe find a local welding supply shop and inquire within to get a better deal.
You'll be surprised at how much better they cut and for not much more money.
I think you'll be a lot happier with Lenox blades and there performance and longevity.
There's a few site you can go to but, I'd suggest Lenox direct to get exactly what you're looking then find a dealer local or online for a better price. Maybe find a local welding supply shop and inquire within to get a better deal.
You'll be surprised at how much better they cut and for not much more money.
#67
I would build another tank no problem, I have actually built a few for a couple guys already, PM me and we can go over some details!
As as for the truck, been slacking on updates. Been driving the truck for a few weeks, working some bugs out and doing some tuning.
Trucks on 6psi right now, feels good when boost comes in, but is a turd till it does. My converter is way tight, only flashing to 2100. I can brake stall it to about 2300 but that's about it. So the converter will be coming out and going back to yank to try and get it a bit looser. I am also still running 3.42 gears and think that between gears and stall I could pick up a bunch down low. Hoping to swap to a set of 4.10's as well.
Winter is coming fast, so not much more time to play, weather is going to be crap for the next few weeks but hopefully it clears up and I can get some more tuning in
As as for the truck, been slacking on updates. Been driving the truck for a few weeks, working some bugs out and doing some tuning.
Trucks on 6psi right now, feels good when boost comes in, but is a turd till it does. My converter is way tight, only flashing to 2100. I can brake stall it to about 2300 but that's about it. So the converter will be coming out and going back to yank to try and get it a bit looser. I am also still running 3.42 gears and think that between gears and stall I could pick up a bunch down low. Hoping to swap to a set of 4.10's as well.
Winter is coming fast, so not much more time to play, weather is going to be crap for the next few weeks but hopefully it clears up and I can get some more tuning in
#68
Been quite some time since I updated this, the truck has changed a bit over the winter due to some issues I had last fall while driving the truck.
SOOOOO starting from last fall, the truck was a turd out of boost. I attributed this to the stall being so tight and the 3.42's in the rear. I also developed a lifter noise right before i parked the truck for the winter.
I ended up getting a little longer pushrods since the ones that were in the truck were on the very low end of the rec. preload for my lifters. The distinct tick that I was hearing went away but the valve train was loud and I got paranoid so i decided to swap out the lifters just to be safe.
Pulled the Heads and swapped out lifters, everything looked good, only issue i could see is what looked like a little oil had been getting into the intake runners though the rocker bolt holes since the heads were ported. sealed those up good this time and slapped it all back together.
1320wheels had a sale running for a complete drag pack with free 15'' conversion brackets so I snagged a pair while the sale was running. Ended up getting the 17x7 fronts and 15 15x10 rears and talked him into throwing in the Dual caliper brackets instead of the single brackets. I have a buddy that runs the dual rear calipers and he loves them, i have heard some negative things about them so we will see. I also swapped to Hydroboost at the same time.
Started on the brake swap, welded some tabs on the rear and welded on a bracket to a -3an tee fitting for the brake lines.
Brackets and calipers all mounted and plumbed
When i ordered the racestars i really wanted the Chrome, but they were backed ordered and wouldn't ship for 3-4 weeks. I liked the look of the black chrome but i cant stand the red stripe that comes on them. 1320 said that the stripe was painted on after the wheel was coated and i should be able to remove it. I took a chance and got the black chrome with hopes i could strip the stripe without hurting the black chrome finish.
What a royal pain, but it is possible! Here is the before and after, i will be painting the red "Racestar" logo since stripping the paint down in the little letters was not going so easy.
SOOOOO starting from last fall, the truck was a turd out of boost. I attributed this to the stall being so tight and the 3.42's in the rear. I also developed a lifter noise right before i parked the truck for the winter.
I ended up getting a little longer pushrods since the ones that were in the truck were on the very low end of the rec. preload for my lifters. The distinct tick that I was hearing went away but the valve train was loud and I got paranoid so i decided to swap out the lifters just to be safe.
Pulled the Heads and swapped out lifters, everything looked good, only issue i could see is what looked like a little oil had been getting into the intake runners though the rocker bolt holes since the heads were ported. sealed those up good this time and slapped it all back together.
1320wheels had a sale running for a complete drag pack with free 15'' conversion brackets so I snagged a pair while the sale was running. Ended up getting the 17x7 fronts and 15 15x10 rears and talked him into throwing in the Dual caliper brackets instead of the single brackets. I have a buddy that runs the dual rear calipers and he loves them, i have heard some negative things about them so we will see. I also swapped to Hydroboost at the same time.
Started on the brake swap, welded some tabs on the rear and welded on a bracket to a -3an tee fitting for the brake lines.
Brackets and calipers all mounted and plumbed
When i ordered the racestars i really wanted the Chrome, but they were backed ordered and wouldn't ship for 3-4 weeks. I liked the look of the black chrome but i cant stand the red stripe that comes on them. 1320 said that the stripe was painted on after the wheel was coated and i should be able to remove it. I took a chance and got the black chrome with hopes i could strip the stripe without hurting the black chrome finish.
What a royal pain, but it is possible! Here is the before and after, i will be painting the red "Racestar" logo since stripping the paint down in the little letters was not going so easy.
#69
While I was doing the rear brakes i decided to add in a line lock as well, i followed what some others have done and installed the solenoid backwards on the rear brakes so that when active it blocks pressure from getting to the rear instead of holding pressure on the front.
bracket i whipped up to hold the solenoid.
all installed
I also added a MSD 2 step and rewired my Efans so that i could override the A/C trigger so i could run the fans manually if i needed. I wanted something clean for the switch's to control all 3. i couldnt find a switch panel i liked online so I built one. I never use the little cubby in the over head console and thought it might be clean to keep all the switch's up out of the way. this is what i ended up coming up with
Since i added all this stuff i decided to clean up my fuse block situation with all the extra added circuits. found this nice fuse block online, it has six 12v constant poles and six 12v switched poles and a ground buss all built in. made it super nice to put everything all in one spot. I decided i wanted to mount it right below the steering wheel right behind the knee/kick panel thing.
Mount i made to fit between the two metal braces
all wired up
Made the change to 4.10's while the truck was down anyway.
Also decided to go to a 1350 Yoke and U-joint to get rid of the conversion joint i had. Broke down and got the Strange billet yoke and HD Caps. It was WAY more then i wanted to spend but figured i would rather spend the money on that then fixing everything if the joint let go.
Size difference between the old conversion joint and the new 1350 joint
I got bored one day and had some extra exhaust wrap. I hated the way my turbo blanket looked, it was just big and bulky and looked out of place. I have seen a few people "wrap" the exhaust housing and it looked awesome. i gave it a shot and i think it came out pretty well. i don't know if it will hold in the heat as good as the blanket, but i guess that's the sacrifice i have to make.
bracket i whipped up to hold the solenoid.
all installed
I also added a MSD 2 step and rewired my Efans so that i could override the A/C trigger so i could run the fans manually if i needed. I wanted something clean for the switch's to control all 3. i couldnt find a switch panel i liked online so I built one. I never use the little cubby in the over head console and thought it might be clean to keep all the switch's up out of the way. this is what i ended up coming up with
Since i added all this stuff i decided to clean up my fuse block situation with all the extra added circuits. found this nice fuse block online, it has six 12v constant poles and six 12v switched poles and a ground buss all built in. made it super nice to put everything all in one spot. I decided i wanted to mount it right below the steering wheel right behind the knee/kick panel thing.
Mount i made to fit between the two metal braces
all wired up
Made the change to 4.10's while the truck was down anyway.
Also decided to go to a 1350 Yoke and U-joint to get rid of the conversion joint i had. Broke down and got the Strange billet yoke and HD Caps. It was WAY more then i wanted to spend but figured i would rather spend the money on that then fixing everything if the joint let go.
Size difference between the old conversion joint and the new 1350 joint
I got bored one day and had some extra exhaust wrap. I hated the way my turbo blanket looked, it was just big and bulky and looked out of place. I have seen a few people "wrap" the exhaust housing and it looked awesome. i gave it a shot and i think it came out pretty well. i don't know if it will hold in the heat as good as the blanket, but i guess that's the sacrifice i have to make.