Project: Big White Elephant!
04-12-2014, 12:47 AM
#31
Should be a super fun truck. I've seen a lot of guys build supports off of the heads but their turbos were a lot closer to the engine then yours is.
That's "when" I get it done lol. Hell I'll be amazed if it doesn't grenade on me on first startup! Have you had a chance to take it to LVMS yet? Your rides looking good BTW!I've seen some nice ones from the heads. I guess once I get the front end on I will see what's closest or wisest to attach it too.
11-25-2014, 05:17 PM
#33
Been awhile since I posted last about my build and things have changed significantly...
Decided to go back to a stock motor setup for my truck. The reason is because I would like to keep it as a DD with only mild upgrades. So I have sold everything and started from scratch, only keeping the 4l80e trans. Recently I bought an '04 LQ4 with 180,xxx on the ticker for only $550, but the trade-off was it had frozen. I bit the bullet and took it apart to find 2 piston bearings had spun. No deep scarring on the crank and everything else looks pretty good. Motors a bit dirty as it was in a work truck but nothing a good hot-tanking couldn't cure.
Trying to stay in the cheap right now as I am in the process of buying a new house and want to get the truck running ASAP (that never seems to be the case).
So question is with 180k motor what would most of you do as far as machine work? Already I am going to have the crank balanced/polished with new bearings throughout cam/rod/main. Local machine shop quoted me these prices so I know what to work with:
Hone: 80
Cam B: 55
Hot Tank: 65
Crank Balance/Polish: 95/42
Reworked Heads: 320
Sonic Check: 48
I was thinking with 180k I should get the block honed with new rings. Deciding if I should have the heads re-worked or not as that is the most expensive part. Might have the heads looked at for a determination of wear, but they look pretty good. I will do a cam possibly a tsp220r also before I put her in. Should be fun when I get it all going as the old 350 was a turd!
Another thing after I replace the rod bearings its obvious that the rod bolts need to be replaced because they are stretch to yield. Is it okay to just replace the bolts with factory and call it a day or does the rod end need to be resized before-hand?
I might be overlooking something, so any other suggestions?
Decided to go back to a stock motor setup for my truck. The reason is because I would like to keep it as a DD with only mild upgrades. So I have sold everything and started from scratch, only keeping the 4l80e trans. Recently I bought an '04 LQ4 with 180,xxx on the ticker for only $550, but the trade-off was it had frozen. I bit the bullet and took it apart to find 2 piston bearings had spun. No deep scarring on the crank and everything else looks pretty good. Motors a bit dirty as it was in a work truck but nothing a good hot-tanking couldn't cure.
Trying to stay in the cheap right now as I am in the process of buying a new house and want to get the truck running ASAP (that never seems to be the case).
So question is with 180k motor what would most of you do as far as machine work? Already I am going to have the crank balanced/polished with new bearings throughout cam/rod/main. Local machine shop quoted me these prices so I know what to work with:
Hone: 80
Cam B: 55
Hot Tank: 65
Crank Balance/Polish: 95/42
Reworked Heads: 320
Sonic Check: 48
I was thinking with 180k I should get the block honed with new rings. Deciding if I should have the heads re-worked or not as that is the most expensive part. Might have the heads looked at for a determination of wear, but they look pretty good. I will do a cam possibly a tsp220r also before I put her in. Should be fun when I get it all going as the old 350 was a turd!
Another thing after I replace the rod bearings its obvious that the rod bolts need to be replaced because they are stretch to yield. Is it okay to just replace the bolts with factory and call it a day or does the rod end need to be resized before-hand?
I might be overlooking something, so any other suggestions?
Last edited by Hivelocit; 11-25-2014 at 06:21 PM.
11-25-2014, 06:29 PM
#34
Another thing this is a 2004 LQ4 so I was under the impression the head bolts would all be the same length and that the different bolt lengths were prior to 2004?
This engine has the different length bolts so I can assume some engines that year came with the new style and some with the old style?
This engine has the different length bolts so I can assume some engines that year came with the new style and some with the old style?
11-25-2014, 07:31 PM
#35
05 was the split year on the head studs. And personally, I've seen many 200K+ engines run absolutely perfect without touching them. Really depends on its prior life and maintenance. I'd bolt it in and run it for a DD. You'll be impressed with a 6.0 in an OBS. The 4L80 will drag it down on the bottom end but 2nd will kick it in the ***. A 3200-3600 stall naturally aspirated will really wake it up.
Good luck, I am a victim of too much at one time. Build it, work out the bugs, mod it a little, work out more bugs. Etc, etc. It is a little more money that way but easier than compounding problems.
Good luck, I am a victim of too much at one time. Build it, work out the bugs, mod it a little, work out more bugs. Etc, etc. It is a little more money that way but easier than compounding problems.
11-25-2014, 10:31 PM
#36
05 was the split year on the head studs. And personally, I've seen many 200K+ engines run absolutely perfect without touching them. Really depends on its prior life and maintenance. I'd bolt it in and run it for a DD. You'll be impressed with a 6.0 in an OBS. The 4L80 will drag it down on the bottom end but 2nd will kick it in the ***. A 3200-3600 stall naturally aspirated will really wake it up.
Good luck, I am a victim of too much at one time. Build it, work out the bugs, mod it a little, work out more bugs. Etc, etc. It is a little more money that way but easier than compounding problems.
Good luck, I am a victim of too much at one time. Build it, work out the bugs, mod it a little, work out more bugs. Etc, etc. It is a little more money that way but easier than compounding problems.
You bring up a valid point about the ls engines, because when I opened this engine up it looked pretty clean. I will go through and check out some clearances/tolerances although im sure they are well within spec. Gonna throw new bearings in and a hone as well as a crank polish (2 journals were scratched up). The heads I will leave as is and upgrade later if necessary.
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