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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 04:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by About20ninj45
Truck looks and sounds good. Great job!
Thanks!
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 04:12 PM
  #22  
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I've had a few more outings in the truck, and its since thrown codes P0059, and P0154 B2S1. I took the lazy route and swapped sensors side for side with no luck, so I hooked up my scanner and went for a short trip. It wasn't long enough to get the truck up to temp, but long enough for bank 1 to start switching normally. Sure enough bank 2 is stuck around .450. I double checked power/ground with a multimeter, and things are ok there. Is this life with long tubes, and free flowing exhaust? Should a guy get hotter 02 sensors? I don't really want to wrap the headers unless its a last resort.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #23  
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Well stupid me was looking at the wrong data set on the scanner when i was trying to monitor 02 readings. I was mistakenly looking at b2s2 instead of b2s1, which is turned off, so its just static at 450. I found the 02 sensor was actually no good (would go up to just over 500, but that was it). I had a spare sensor on the shelf I chucked in, and problem solved. Now a new problem. I wasn't getting much for heat, and tried burping the surge tank a few times, but it seems the level just wants to bounce around when its at operating temp. Also driving around town the truck wanted to run over 100 degrees a few times for no reason with both lo and hi fans running. What a pain in the ***. Trying to find a happy level ended up just washing down the driveway with coolant burping it over and over. Hopefully today i will have better luck.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 02:35 PM
  #24  
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my truck runs around 190/200 degrees i have a 2004 rcsb 4.8 2wd i swapped to electric fans so it would warm up faster but once warmed up temp is pretty steady

burping these LS engines are a pain! the way i do it is put the front tires on ramps get the engine up to temperature and loosen one of the front steam port crossover bolts till i see straight antifreeze (no more bubbles) then tighten it and loosen the other and do the same, my sons lq4 we had to pull off the upper radiator hose and blow and suck on it till the air was out, hes was vapor locked or something fluid wasn't flowing at all tho
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 01:54 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by lsxponcho
Well stupid me was looking at the wrong data set on the scanner when i was trying to monitor 02 readings. I was mistakenly looking at b2s2 instead of b2s1, which is turned off, so its just static at 450. I found the 02 sensor was actually no good (would go up to just over 500, but that was it). I had a spare sensor on the shelf I chucked in, and problem solved. Now a new problem. I wasn't getting much for heat, and tried burping the surge tank a few times, but it seems the level just wants to bounce around when its at operating temp. Also driving around town the truck wanted to run over 100 degrees a few times for no reason with both lo and hi fans running. What a pain in the ***. Trying to find a happy level ended up just washing down the driveway with coolant burping it over and over. Hopefully today i will have better luck.
Forgive me if I missed it, but what are you using the factory narrow bands for anyway?
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by stroker87
my truck runs around 190/200 degrees i have a 2004 rcsb 4.8 2wd i swapped to electric fans so it would warm up faster but once warmed up temp is pretty steady

burping these LS engines are a pain! the way i do it is put the front tires on ramps get the engine up to temperature and loosen one of the front steam port crossover bolts till i see straight antifreeze (no more bubbles) then tighten it and loosen the other and do the same, my sons lq4 we had to pull off the upper radiator hose and blow and suck on it till the air was out, hes was vapor locked or something fluid wasn't flowing at all tho
I will have to try the steam port thing. I think mine is vapor locked to some extent also.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown06
Forgive me if I missed it, but what are you using the factory narrow bands for anyway?
No worries, just trying to keep it from throwing codes. I don't have a wideband for the truck, since the tune was just mail order.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 01:39 PM
  #28  
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Just an FYI, the van hydroboost has a different shaft length so you will need modify the stock pedal and bring down the eyelet. Otherwise it will make your pedal way too high.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 09:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by E$O3200
Just an FYI, the van hydroboost has a different shaft length so you will need modify the stock pedal and bring down the eyelet. Otherwise it will make your pedal way too high.
I had seen that while researching hydroboost swaps. I kept the pedal with the unit, to either swap also, or reference holes.
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