Funkster's Build Thread
#91
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
Over the last couple days some decent progress was made. I welded the dump tube last night and painted it and the crossover with high temp paint.


I also got the cold pipes mounted for what I hope is the last time and the blow off valve and IAT sensor installed. I still need to wire the IAT sensor though. I also finished wiring the fuel system.


Lastly, I put some of the front panels and the headlights put back on.


I also got the cold pipes mounted for what I hope is the last time and the blow off valve and IAT sensor installed. I still need to wire the IAT sensor though. I also finished wiring the fuel system.


Lastly, I put some of the front panels and the headlights put back on.
#92
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
Almost entirely buttoned up at this point. I am working with a fuel issue and need to build the downpipe and set up a couple of gauges. Really hoping it is only a day or two before I am out driving. However, this weekend we got it all started up and checked for leaks, etc. Good news, is most things seem to be working. 
Turbo 2003 Silverado First Start - YouTube
Turbo 2003 Silverado First Start - YouTube
#93
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
Truck is all done and currently I am working on the tuning. I have it at 9-10psi right now with plans to tune for 18psi this weekend.
I plastidipped the front bumper white while I was finishing everything up as well.
Here is a very rough quality video of me playing around the 2nd time it was out. I launched at 1800ish with no boost and as soon as it rolled into power it starts to blow the wheels off pretty good. I let out of it and then got back in it after a second. Tires are going to have to be next on the list.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVtN3-gsLpA&feature=youtu.be
I plastidipped the front bumper white while I was finishing everything up as well.
Here is a very rough quality video of me playing around the 2nd time it was out. I launched at 1800ish with no boost and as soon as it rolled into power it starts to blow the wheels off pretty good. I let out of it and then got back in it after a second. Tires are going to have to be next on the list.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVtN3-gsLpA&feature=youtu.be
#94
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
Well this weekend didn't go entirely to plan. We loaded the truck on the dyno to tune due to rain in our area. On our first pull the front U-Joint let go and sent caps out from under the truck. The U-Joint didn't break, but the cap came out. We assumed there must have been a clip missing from the U-Joint.
We replaced the U-Joint and put it back on the rollers. At about 4000 RPM on a slight pull to test it started making a light metallic noise. The people underneath the truck said they that it was coming from the transmission. We started the truck and you can hear the noise on start up. It sounds like a metal clicking noise to me, my tuner said he thought it sounded like it was coming from the converter.
The interesting thing is we couldn't get the noise to be louder, faster or sometimes even make any noise with an increase in RPM. I double checked all the converter bolts and spacing on them just in case and everything was fine there. The truck seemed to drive fine, but made the weird noise on startup. So, I went to drive it home. On the way home I rolled into it a bit and heard a bang then knocking. I pulled off and the truck had thrown another U-Joint cap off.
This leads me to wonder if anyone has experienced either of these issues before? I hate to think it was the converter as I probably never made more than 450whp on a Circle D converter. I also wouldn't think it would have damaged the trans, but weirder things than both have happened. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
We replaced the U-Joint and put it back on the rollers. At about 4000 RPM on a slight pull to test it started making a light metallic noise. The people underneath the truck said they that it was coming from the transmission. We started the truck and you can hear the noise on start up. It sounds like a metal clicking noise to me, my tuner said he thought it sounded like it was coming from the converter.
The interesting thing is we couldn't get the noise to be louder, faster or sometimes even make any noise with an increase in RPM. I double checked all the converter bolts and spacing on them just in case and everything was fine there. The truck seemed to drive fine, but made the weird noise on startup. So, I went to drive it home. On the way home I rolled into it a bit and heard a bang then knocking. I pulled off and the truck had thrown another U-Joint cap off.
This leads me to wonder if anyone has experienced either of these issues before? I hate to think it was the converter as I probably never made more than 450whp on a Circle D converter. I also wouldn't think it would have damaged the trans, but weirder things than both have happened. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
#95
I'd check your shaft for damage and have it checked for balance.
Back in my Jeep days, I chucked a U-joint when I was wheelin' the Rubicon, in California. I replaced the U-joint, but that drive-shaft was never the same again. As it turns out it was slightly damaged even though it didn't visually appear to be. The whole driveshaft was replaced and kept as a spare.
Damaged yokes can tend to spread out a bit and cause the separation and subsequent U-joint ejection. Sometimes it's just best to replace it if there's any question.
When you dyno-load a vehicle it can put more stress on the drivetrain than it does on the street because there's no fuse (traction) like there is on the street, this would explain why you found this weakness on the dyno.
Just my $.02
Back in my Jeep days, I chucked a U-joint when I was wheelin' the Rubicon, in California. I replaced the U-joint, but that drive-shaft was never the same again. As it turns out it was slightly damaged even though it didn't visually appear to be. The whole driveshaft was replaced and kept as a spare.
Damaged yokes can tend to spread out a bit and cause the separation and subsequent U-joint ejection. Sometimes it's just best to replace it if there's any question.
When you dyno-load a vehicle it can put more stress on the drivetrain than it does on the street because there's no fuse (traction) like there is on the street, this would explain why you found this weakness on the dyno.
Just my $.02
#96
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
I'd check your shaft for damage and have it checked for balance.
Back in my Jeep days, I chucked a U-joint when I was wheelin' the Rubicon, in California. I replaced the U-joint, but that drive-shaft was never the same again. As it turns out it was slightly damaged even though it didn't visually appear to be. The whole driveshaft was replaced and kept as a spare.
Damaged yokes can tend to spread out a bit and cause the separation and subsequent U-joint ejection. Sometimes it's just best to replace it if there's any question.
When you dyno-load a vehicle it can put more stress on the drivetrain than it does on the street because there's no fuse (traction) like there is on the street, this would explain why you found this weakness on the dyno.
Just my $.02
Back in my Jeep days, I chucked a U-joint when I was wheelin' the Rubicon, in California. I replaced the U-joint, but that drive-shaft was never the same again. As it turns out it was slightly damaged even though it didn't visually appear to be. The whole driveshaft was replaced and kept as a spare.
Damaged yokes can tend to spread out a bit and cause the separation and subsequent U-joint ejection. Sometimes it's just best to replace it if there's any question.
When you dyno-load a vehicle it can put more stress on the drivetrain than it does on the street because there's no fuse (traction) like there is on the street, this would explain why you found this weakness on the dyno.
Just my $.02
#98
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
Alright, so I disconnected the torque converter and started the truck and got even more noise. Upon closer inspection it looks like now the flexplate is hitting the roller bearing on the starter. I am going to try to shim the starter, but ordered a new flexplate in case as well.
I also am having a new driveshaft built now. 3.5" mild steel with 1350 joints front and rear. I am going to use a conversion on the rear for now, but will eventually change the differential yoke to a true 1350.
So, I will keep you guys updated and with any luck will be up and running again this weekend.
I also am having a new driveshaft built now. 3.5" mild steel with 1350 joints front and rear. I am going to use a conversion on the rear for now, but will eventually change the differential yoke to a true 1350.
So, I will keep you guys updated and with any luck will be up and running again this weekend.
#99
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From: Urbandale, Iowa
I decided to do away with my pointless AM/FM radio and install an iPhone interface. I also wanted to move my wideband closer to my viewing area while driving so I killed two birds with one stone. I made an ABS plate and used the stock radio mounting tabs on the back.
Ignore the silver marks as they are cutting lines and won't be visible once this is mounted.
Ignore the silver marks as they are cutting lines and won't be visible once this is mounted.
#100
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I went out this weekend and tried to launch on some boost. I knew it wouldn't go great as I am on street 20s and stock suspension. The foot brake held a couple of PSI and I tried to pedal out a launch....didn't work. 


