93 S-10 project
Mar 1, 2014 | 03:27 PM
#51
Well the planner apparently MISSED the part where I was supposed to be out for 10 days before coming home again.
So I got home yesterday evening. Went out this morning around 8 AM to a decent 48 degrees and installed the rocker arm and rocker to the ford and it is now running pretty good. Got the valve covers put back on and buttoned it all up. Will have to give it an oil change and a full tank of premium to get it cleaned out some and running better.
As for the S-10, I am definitely going to have to learn to OVER GUESS when it comes to things like main fuel feeds and battery cables. 6AN line coming from the pump forward is about 2 feet too short for where I wanted to put it. Battery cable from cutoff switch to the starter is going to be about a foot short once I get it routed and secured.
I have decided to just get 25 feet of 8 gauge to go from the alternator to the battery, that way I KNOW I have enough wire to get it there.
Got the nitrous plate put on, carb bolted down, nitrous feed line ran, main feed from fuel cell tot he pump is on, and pump is mounted down but not wired up. Have to get bolts for the bottle, fuel cell, and some of those rubber insulated clips for securing lines between the back and the front for the nitrous and fuel lines. As it sits right now, since I wont be going to Memphis or any large track that does tech inspections, I can run the regulator on the firewall. Once I get more money coming in, I can order more fuel line and replace the main line from the pump to the regulator. I have to double check, but I think I have a 90 degree fitting for feeding the regulator, and where it sits right now it needs to be a straight. I could probably get away with just a fuel barb and clamp since I might have to redo the line.
I also got the front wheels and tires swapped back onto the truck, as it sits right now, its is pretty big of a gap in the front end. I might either get some drop springs or drop spindles to bring the altitude back in check a bit. Gonna see whats what after I get the trans back in and a mount made for it. Maybe that weight will bring it down a hair.
I ordered an accelerator cable that is supposed to work for this setup. Hopefully they are right and I can start getting some of the wiring done to make some of this **** work. I got the connectors for the 6LS connected and the plug ran into the cab area through a firewall plug on the passenger side low. It doesn't look like anything will interfere with the transmission getting installed.
Pictures:
So I got home yesterday evening. Went out this morning around 8 AM to a decent 48 degrees and installed the rocker arm and rocker to the ford and it is now running pretty good. Got the valve covers put back on and buttoned it all up. Will have to give it an oil change and a full tank of premium to get it cleaned out some and running better.
As for the S-10, I am definitely going to have to learn to OVER GUESS when it comes to things like main fuel feeds and battery cables. 6AN line coming from the pump forward is about 2 feet too short for where I wanted to put it. Battery cable from cutoff switch to the starter is going to be about a foot short once I get it routed and secured.
I have decided to just get 25 feet of 8 gauge to go from the alternator to the battery, that way I KNOW I have enough wire to get it there.
Got the nitrous plate put on, carb bolted down, nitrous feed line ran, main feed from fuel cell tot he pump is on, and pump is mounted down but not wired up. Have to get bolts for the bottle, fuel cell, and some of those rubber insulated clips for securing lines between the back and the front for the nitrous and fuel lines. As it sits right now, since I wont be going to Memphis or any large track that does tech inspections, I can run the regulator on the firewall. Once I get more money coming in, I can order more fuel line and replace the main line from the pump to the regulator. I have to double check, but I think I have a 90 degree fitting for feeding the regulator, and where it sits right now it needs to be a straight. I could probably get away with just a fuel barb and clamp since I might have to redo the line.
I also got the front wheels and tires swapped back onto the truck, as it sits right now, its is pretty big of a gap in the front end. I might either get some drop springs or drop spindles to bring the altitude back in check a bit. Gonna see whats what after I get the trans back in and a mount made for it. Maybe that weight will bring it down a hair.
I ordered an accelerator cable that is supposed to work for this setup. Hopefully they are right and I can start getting some of the wiring done to make some of this **** work. I got the connectors for the 6LS connected and the plug ran into the cab area through a firewall plug on the passenger side low. It doesn't look like anything will interfere with the transmission getting installed.
Pictures:
Last edited by BigEd_72455; Mar 4, 2014 at 09:20 PM.
Mar 4, 2014 | 03:54 PM
#54
I will, SOON.. But I am not chopping any springs. I plan to order drop spindles either this or next week to bring it down some. It looks way up cause of the 4 inches of blocks in the back.
Mar 4, 2014 | 09:40 PM
#55
I got a quick look this afternoon and it looks to be between 4 and 5 feet of cable I will need to get from the battery to the bumper mounted cutoff switch. So I will just shorten down the power wire I already have and go ahead and get a 20 foot run of 4 gauge red to go from the cutoff to the starter. That should be enough!! I may already have the lead to go from the battery to the cutoff. I just remembered that I had a 4 gauge cable that was on a different car I was working on. It is already on the alternator to starter on this truck. But since I have to set this up so that the alternator charges the BATTERY and not the rest of the system when the switch is off, I will see if it is long enough.
More to come after the 2014 ice age is finally over with. I need to move to the middle of nowhere between Laredo and Houston, with a 20 foot chain link razor wire electrified fence and motion activated 30mm electric gatling guns.
More to come after the 2014 ice age is finally over with. I need to move to the middle of nowhere between Laredo and Houston, with a 20 foot chain link razor wire electrified fence and motion activated 30mm electric gatling guns.
Mar 5, 2014 | 02:33 PM
#56
I was only about 1-2 feet off on the length guess. The cable I had sitting in a tool tray was perfect in length. I just have to get something to insulate it where it passes through the bed. I am thinking some 3/8 fuel line since its plenty thick enough. I can zip tie it in place above and below the bed to keep it from moving around on the cable.
On another note, went to the hardware store and got the rest of the intake bolts to finish bolting down the intake manifold, and also got some larger diameter washers than the ones that were included when I got it. Less chance of those tiny things pulling through.
I also chatted with TX Silverado about the MAP sensor and he says not needed for drag racing so it'll stay unhooked. I just have to remember to zero out the MAP sensor table so it doesn't think its at full throttle when I go to start it up.
On another note, went to the hardware store and got the rest of the intake bolts to finish bolting down the intake manifold, and also got some larger diameter washers than the ones that were included when I got it. Less chance of those tiny things pulling through.
I also chatted with TX Silverado about the MAP sensor and he says not needed for drag racing so it'll stay unhooked. I just have to remember to zero out the MAP sensor table so it doesn't think its at full throttle when I go to start it up.
Mar 12, 2014 | 11:28 PM
#57
Latest news is that I now have 5 brand new tires and wheels for the trailer that will be hauling the S-10 back and forth.. YAY, kinda!!
Converter should be in Friday. Hopefully. I am hoping to get the manual valve body and the trans put back together, and if I can get a bit of help from someone, the trans in the truck and bolted to the engine. Which should prove to be quite fun since it currently does not have one of the motor mounts on the engine. I removed it for removal of the starter when pulling the turbo 400. Things on this engine are so much easier to get to and work on than about any ford I have dealt with...
Converter should be in Friday. Hopefully. I am hoping to get the manual valve body and the trans put back together, and if I can get a bit of help from someone, the trans in the truck and bolted to the engine. Which should prove to be quite fun since it currently does not have one of the motor mounts on the engine. I removed it for removal of the starter when pulling the turbo 400. Things on this engine are so much easier to get to and work on than about any ford I have dealt with...
Mar 19, 2014 | 11:52 PM
#58
UPDATE - the right converter is now at the house, along with a new regulator. I also ordered a AN fitting I missed in my line-up, along with 15 feet of 6AN hose that will hopefully be in by this weekend so I can finish the fuel system.
I plan to get 4 gauge red battery cable for the cutoff to starter switch, 8 gauge wire to go from the alternator to the battery directly, and some misc wire for powering the ignition, and connecting the neutral safety switch to a relay for the starter power wire. Now that the converter is in, I am going to try to get the transmission installed in the truck this weekend, and see about getting a brace laid out for a welder to get installed with side plates and a bolt in cross member. I already have the transmission mount in, so I don't have to wait for that. And the transmission lines that were in for the turbo 400 should hopefully line up for this turbo 350. Save me some hassles and headaches there.
I will also be getting the 2 1/2 collectors removed back to where the pipe will be 3 inches, and have new pipework put under the truck and reach back to behind the transmission pan to avoid heating up the trans fluid quicker. Along with removing the mufflers. This truck is gonna be a loud when the nitrous kicks in.
I plan to get 4 gauge red battery cable for the cutoff to starter switch, 8 gauge wire to go from the alternator to the battery directly, and some misc wire for powering the ignition, and connecting the neutral safety switch to a relay for the starter power wire. Now that the converter is in, I am going to try to get the transmission installed in the truck this weekend, and see about getting a brace laid out for a welder to get installed with side plates and a bolt in cross member. I already have the transmission mount in, so I don't have to wait for that. And the transmission lines that were in for the turbo 400 should hopefully line up for this turbo 350. Save me some hassles and headaches there.
I will also be getting the 2 1/2 collectors removed back to where the pipe will be 3 inches, and have new pipework put under the truck and reach back to behind the transmission pan to avoid heating up the trans fluid quicker. Along with removing the mufflers. This truck is gonna be a loud when the nitrous kicks in.
Mar 22, 2014 | 06:24 PM
#59
News for today.
Had the transmission in and bolted down. Went to turn the converter to line up the bolt holes and it would NOT BUDGE!!! Loosened it up where I could shift the trans, still stuck!!
************!!!!
Got all the bolts back out, had a jack and boards under the trans, got a prybar and wiggled the converter free of the adapter, CRASH BANG BAM SCREAM YELL CUSS BITCH COMPLAIN!!!! Now I am bleeding from my head from the prybar, the transmission has attacked my hand on the way down, and I still have to drag my 480 pound *** out from under this ******* thing to figure out the damage to me....
Got a nice knot on the upper right side of my head with a cut there, hand has a good scratch, and I am now having a major headache. ******* TRUCK!!!!
Figured out the problem that caused the majority of this. The original turbo 400 converter's snout plate broke off and wedged inside the adapter piece. Because of that bouncing around inside the adapter, the inner edge was boogered up and had a couple high spots, coupled with some amazingly thick green paint. I had to wire brush the converter snout on the new converter to get rid of the paint, had to flat file the snout's edge that slides inside the adapter because of the messed up adapter, had to round file the inner edge of the adapter that bolts to the crank because of the messed up inner surface, and try it several times for good fitment, with a tad of looseness so I can adjust the converter to bolt it down.
Hold run-on-sentence, BATMAN!!
But now, the trans and converter are under the truck and covered up for the next time I am in. I have new fuel fittings, regulator, and 6AN line to install next time as well. Providing I don't have any serious issues during this coming week, I expect to be in Friday afternoon to try to get some of this **** together again. Maybe this time they will actually let me stay home like I should be, ******* slave drivers!!!
I got a couple pictures, but they are on my phone and not on my computer yet. I will get them posted up in just a little bit.
Had the transmission in and bolted down. Went to turn the converter to line up the bolt holes and it would NOT BUDGE!!! Loosened it up where I could shift the trans, still stuck!!
************!!!!
Got all the bolts back out, had a jack and boards under the trans, got a prybar and wiggled the converter free of the adapter, CRASH BANG BAM SCREAM YELL CUSS BITCH COMPLAIN!!!! Now I am bleeding from my head from the prybar, the transmission has attacked my hand on the way down, and I still have to drag my 480 pound *** out from under this ******* thing to figure out the damage to me....
Got a nice knot on the upper right side of my head with a cut there, hand has a good scratch, and I am now having a major headache. ******* TRUCK!!!!
Figured out the problem that caused the majority of this. The original turbo 400 converter's snout plate broke off and wedged inside the adapter piece. Because of that bouncing around inside the adapter, the inner edge was boogered up and had a couple high spots, coupled with some amazingly thick green paint. I had to wire brush the converter snout on the new converter to get rid of the paint, had to flat file the snout's edge that slides inside the adapter because of the messed up adapter, had to round file the inner edge of the adapter that bolts to the crank because of the messed up inner surface, and try it several times for good fitment, with a tad of looseness so I can adjust the converter to bolt it down.
Hold run-on-sentence, BATMAN!!
But now, the trans and converter are under the truck and covered up for the next time I am in. I have new fuel fittings, regulator, and 6AN line to install next time as well. Providing I don't have any serious issues during this coming week, I expect to be in Friday afternoon to try to get some of this **** together again. Maybe this time they will actually let me stay home like I should be, ******* slave drivers!!!
I got a couple pictures, but they are on my phone and not on my computer yet. I will get them posted up in just a little bit.
Mar 30, 2014 | 07:04 PM
#60
Today was a pretty good day. Got the transmission bolted to the motor, and have the converter lined up to bolt it to the flywheel. Tried fitting the oem cross member but the drivers side exhaust is in the way. So that is getting removed. I will also take out the header to cut off the 3 bolt flange so I can get new dual exhaust run from both manifolds back. Hopefully it wont take too much money to get done since I will be providing the flowmasters. The OEM cross member will only need an adapter plate made to get the trans mounted. But before I go doing that, I will have to get the passenger side motor mount re-installed and everything squared back up again.
It looks like I already have a driveshaft that will work fine for my objective. But with a bit of time and hopefully a nice weekend at home with no rain I can get it all done.
Only time will tell.
The nitrous kit is complete except for one fitting leaking. I already have the parts ordered to fix that little problem. I have to go to the hospital tomorrow, but when I get home I should be able to get a bit more taken care of.
A few pictures I took before calling it a night:
It looks like I already have a driveshaft that will work fine for my objective. But with a bit of time and hopefully a nice weekend at home with no rain I can get it all done.
Only time will tell.
The nitrous kit is complete except for one fitting leaking. I already have the parts ordered to fix that little problem. I have to go to the hospital tomorrow, but when I get home I should be able to get a bit more taken care of.
A few pictures I took before calling it a night:
