superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

Well been talking with a good local builder here and he is gonna build me a 60 with 2800 stall for about 2 grand. I think he really knows his stuff and he went over the parts list with me and its sounds like all the right stuff. He said with the build he is doing it should hold 750hp. I plan to put down about around the 600 mark when its all said and done. He warranties his work also so im praying it all turn out good. Gonna get a fbody pan put on it also while the tranny is out because the truck oil pan hangs below the cross member and after I do the 4/6 drop im afraid I would bust it on something. Hoping with the 2800 I can get the turbo spooled up for a good launch. I imagine with the 2800 I would need drag tires to get any good traction.

superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

Got it back end of day yesterday. I like it! Shifts great, good and firm when driving around but doesn't give you whiplash and then when floored it really grabs the gear good. Im glad I didn't go bigger on the stall because even with the 2800 it feels a bit much trying to ease from red light to red light in town. I think that after I get my 2.73 changed out for some good 3.73 it will feel much better.

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

If you're going turbo leave the 2.73s until you boost it

superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I will probably try it out and see how it does. I imagine the stock rear will not hold for long after boot but I will have a 9" waiting for it to go. I figure with the stall and the 2.73 it should be able to build boost real low. Kinda my thinking for going 3.73 instead of 4.11 gears. Do you think it would still build boost low with a gear like 3.73? Just thinking that the 3.73 would get better mpg in town because it would be easier to get the truck moving and not stall up as much.

superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

Wow things have not been going my way lately! (I copied and pasted this from a thread I made in the internal engine section to keep you guys up to date about what is going on with it now)

Well completed a 5.3 and 4l60e swap into my 86 c10 and everything went pretty smooth until I hit about the first 120 mile mark and the 60e rear planets go out so I get a performance tranny build with a 2800 stall. Get it back and great love the way it drives but every since I first started this engine after I put it in this truck it has had a slight tapping noise, I figured ahh it just needs a rocker adjusted or its just the normal piston slap on these engines and nothing to worry about. But now about 20 miles after tranny swap it has gotten much louder and sounds like something really bad is happening. I pulled the valve covers and all is adjusted correctly so its deff internal engine. Its really weird sounding because while it almost always makes the noise sometimes its almost unoticable (you have to pay close attention to hear it) but then some times its super loud sounding like a someone is hammering under my hood. I cant really hear it when driving because the exhaust drowns it out but I can deff hear it at idle and when reving in park. I dunno if its a rod, cam bearing, or just piston slap at the extreme (i think this is it but if so its really really bad). Regardless Im pretty sure it needs a rebuild. What are all you guys thoughts on this. I had exhausted my budget on the build and then with the new tranny Im way over budget! But I have to fix it because it was built to be my daily driver and with me and the wife sharing just her car its really hard! So I want to do a quality rebuild but on as tight of a budget as possible. (Rebuild stuff is so expensive for the LS line!) I have a 4.8 engine that currently needs a rebuild. I know its the same block as a 5.3 so i could just rebuild it into a 5.3. Basically the 4.8 only had like 40k on it and was in great shape but after coming out of a wrecked truck someone let it sit awhile with water in 1 cyl and rusted it up some (isnt that bad and could deff be bored out). So what do you guys think rebuild the 4.8 into a 5.3 (would have to buy 5.3 crank and rods and pistons. Or what if I bored it out to accept the ls1 pistons and left the 4.8 bottom end. What would that make the engine size? What do you guys think about this idea? What about the weight difference of the ls1 pistons over the 5.3 or 4.8 pistons, would I have to use the ls1 crank and rods or could I get the 5.3 or 4.8 crank rebalanced (no idea what that would cost). Im just thinking because I deff want to do it the cheapest way and still have it be right but im going to have to get it bored and pistons anyway so would it really cost more to do the ls1 pistons? And I cant use any parts from my current 5.3 because Im just gonna have to keep driving it and pray it holds up till I can get this one built and I dont know whats good inside it with the knocking noise. Also need some good cam choices but don't want to spend a ton on expensive valve train parts. Let me know what you guys think about everything. Thanks and sorry so long just wanted to include everything!

superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

Ahh been awhile since I have updated. The knocking noise continued to grow worse until it got to the point of sounding like something was about to come through the side of the block! I ended up just replacing it with another 5.3. Wow what a difference! This engine has had more power than the last from the get go. Pulls pretty hard for all stock internals. Have gotten quite a bit more progress. Put a flip kit on the rear, 2.5" drop spindles and 2" drop springs on the front, Nitro drop 2 shocks all the way around. It actually rides better than it did before I dropped it! No bottoming out problems. I have 255/45r20 tires and have no rubbing issues at all. The only time it ever rubs is if Im braking hard while making a sharp turn and hit a good bump lol. Then the you can barley hear one of the from tires hit the inside of the fenderwell (not the finder lip the actually inside fender liner so not going to cut the tire or damage anything at all. Really happy with the drop. Yesterday I redone some of the wiring and built a much more compact fusebox and moved the fusebox and computer inside the dash. Starting to look much cleaner under the hood. The only place I could find to fit the computer and fusebox was in the glove box. Hate to give up the space but didn't want to remove any of the heater or ac ducting under the dash because I place to keep heat and Ac in this dude. Have all autometer ultralight gauges now. Now just need a new dash pad, carpet, seats and a nice paint job!

nichoms

iTrader: (1)

Did you run the harness through the large hole on the passenger side firewall by the heater box or drill your own hole?
I'm also doing a very similar build but with a Th400 and was planning on running through that hole and putting it behind the glove box.
Any new pictures?
Sorry to hear about all the issues man...

superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

Sorry it took so long to reply man, I just realized that you had posted. My setting where wrong and I wasn't subscribed. But yeah I did run my through a grommet and then through the pre-existing hole in the firewall. No problem there. Hope your swap goes well!

YellowChevy4.8

iTrader: (36)

Sweet set up! My buddy and I are swapping a 4.8/4l60e in a 85 SWB this weekend.

What swap headers are those? Would you use them again? I've heard of people using 4th gen fbody headers with only minor clearance issues.

What fuel pump set up did you go with? Did you install a newer type fuel pump with bucket in the OEM tank?