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Played with the tune a bit and go it to sound a little rowdier at idle. It doesn't spare when the ac gets kicked on anymore but it does drop a little to far after a high rpm pull then letting out in neutral, sometimes it catches itself sometimes it doesn't so there is work to be done.
Sounds mean!
Don't know how much different the tune is with a manual. I assume you're running an electronic throttle body too.
Dose your PCM have a "stall saver" option in HP Tuners under "Idle > RPM, if so play around with those settings. I like to add timing to both the "high" & "low" octane (spark) tables in the RPM columns below my idle speed, like in the 600 & 400 RPM columns. If the idle drops into those columns below your commanded idle RPM, the PCM will add timing and help with stalling.
Also make sure the numbers in the "Idle Spark Advance" In drive & in park match the "high octane & low octane" tables.
You can see I have the timing higher in the 400 & 600 columns than I do in the 800 RPM column. When the idle dips below 800 RPM it adds time and helps stalling.
well i was snacking on some stupid-o cereal anyway & mixed up the numbers.
the dual-in, dual-out with the internal X is the one i meant i'd use, too.
Well good because thats the one I ordered. You should really stay off the Stupid-o cereal, I hear its a gateway to Krokodil which is a bad drug.
Originally Posted by RedXray
Sounds mean!
Don't know how much different the tune is with a manual. I assume you're running an electronic throttle body too.
Dose your PCM have a "stall saver" option in HP Tuners under "Idle > RPM, if so play around with those settings. I like to add timing to both the "high" & "low" octane (spark) tables in the RPM columns below my idle speed, like in the 600 & 400 RPM columns. If the idle drops into those columns below your commanded idle RPM, the PCM will add timing and help with stalling.
Also make sure the numbers in the "Idle Spark Advance" In drive & in park match the "high octane & low octane" tables.
You can see I have the timing higher in the 400 & 600 columns than I do in the 800 RPM column. When the idle dips below 800 RPM it adds time and helps stalling.
Thank you I can't wait to get a little bit louder exhaust you still have to crouch by the tips to hear it which is depressing.
Yes it is running and LS2 90mm Electronic TB
I do have the stall saver option and I didn't even know about it so I'm going to add a little to the values under the idle speed to see what happens. I was just watching a Goat Rope video about changing the spark under the idle in the high, low, and advanced tables. I love his videos but sometimes he's to smart for me and I have to watch it 4 times for anything to stick.
Also, the PCM is still the same since this was originally an auto. I believe the only real difference is all the settings that have an In gear and Park/neutral have the Park/neutral table zeroed out because its irrelevant. I could be wrong on that as I am really just figuring this stuff out still.
Last edited by dantheman1540; Sep 22, 2020 at 08:16 AM.
Fixed my AFR gauge, the sensor needed replacing even though it just at a year old. I think the coolant that got sprayed into the exhaust may have killed it. Since I fixed it I was able to do some MAF tuning and its running great now no weird RPM hangups or near stall experiences. Going to work on spark tuning tomorrow and if I have time I'm gonna put a load on my trailer and hit the hills for some serious torture testing.
Used a crappy little cellphone 0-60 guess-timater today and got 10.9 0-60. Rather depressing but one of the big flaws is that I have no idea how to launch this thing yet since I usually just punch it from a 1-5mph roll, and the 2-3 shift is fast as molasses at best. So the limiter right now is set at 6,500 and I doubt it makes much power passed that but would it hurt to try and push it to 6,800 just so I can hit 60 before I have to shift?
Well, hit 260k in this thing today. Got a bunch of parts on the shelf ready for a full front end rebuild and Atomic Coilover swap. Also just recently replaced the evap canister and vent valve as well as cutting off and relocation the canister mounting bracket so the big ole 1410 yoke doesn't hit it anymore. My spine has been thanking me for having more than 1" of up travel in the rear. Unfortunately, it now loses to @slipsecond 408 Denali by about 2 truck lengths since he got the new 408 tune dialed. I need to go back and sprinkle some timing on this turd.
All around good times maybe get it on the dyno this year just for fun.
I'm fairly certain it's all original parts and only a ball joint is clicking that I can tell which is really impressive. I started the mockup of the coil overs last night and if I do the stud top mounting the coil spring is crazy close to the UCA. I have some other options I could use the stud top to eyelet adapter and possibly space it over a tad. Need more time to play with it, and clean everything.
Either way, these Viking coil-overs are freaking gorgeous!
Actually, I didn't have the cone spacers in the bottom so the whole thing was shifted further towards the UCA. I think with them in it will fit properly.
They are really small looking almost look like something for a bike or maybe a geo metro.
Sep 22, 2020 | 01:54 AM
