Roger, What did you do to fix it, as my old truck is now my brother's and this is a issue from time to time.

Replace the whole seat track and connector?

 

I found a heavy duty 4 pin connector with 10 gauge wire pigtails at a local snow plow shop. Pulled the damaged wires/pins out of the burnt connector, and spliced in the new 4 pin connector next to the damaged factory connector.

The factory connectors were listed as no longer available, and none of the wrecking yards would let me take connectors without buying the entire front seat set. So I had to make something work.

 

Have a read through this, might be of some benefit.


http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/threads/repairing-heated-seats-and-the-memory-power-adjustment-system-1999-2006.108685/

 

Okay, so I've been plugging away at this project trying to make some headway and so far so good. I've found the source of my issue. The head gasket was cracked between a coolant passage and cylinder 4. The piston was spotless, the combustion chamber was clean, and the plug was wet. Every other cylinder looked normal (for almost 200'000km).





I took the heads to the car wash along with the intake, and gave them a good cleaning with degreaser an hot water. I took the heads down to the basement and started disassembling them so they can be dropped off to be resurfaced and inspected.





I was planning on lapping the valves, but on second thought that seems kind of ghetto. I'm sure I could pass the valves to the machine shop and have them clean everything and do a proper grind job for not too much extra.

I'm worried about the milkshake oil/coolant sludge left in the block. My plan is to pretty much wash the block down in place with brake clean and make sure I can get as much as possible to drain out the bottom end. Then I'll put in some cheap oil, run the engine for a bit, add some seafoam, run it again, and then drain it.

I'm not too sure what I want to do about my lifters, pushrods and rockers. The lifters are covered in that junk and I'm worried they will cause and issue if I try to reuse them and I'll regret not replacing them. As for the pushrods and rockers, some of the tips of the pushrods are nice and shiny, while others have obvious one-directional wear marks. I'm thinking it might be best to replace those as well.

Any opinions?

 

My 243's, and a reasonable cam lol.

 

Well, somewhat of an update. But a crappy one. Took my heads to a shop here in Edmonton, against the advice of 1994Vmax, who said they suck and grind valve seats crooked. But they quoted me the best price and it was a simple job, nothing performance about it, just a simple reface and valve job.

Here's how it went:

- Called Monday, was quoted $140 for the reface, $400 for the valve job.

- Dropped them off (already disassembled) later that day and was told they would call me the next day.

- I had to call back Thursday, asked for an update. They completely forgot I dropped them off and asked what I wanted done. Great.

- They called me early the next day (Friday) and asked if I wanted them to extract the 3 snapped off exhaust studs. Sure. Why not. They are a machine shop, that's an hour tops.

- I get a call Monday, the heads are done, and it's $900. Nearly double what they quoted me, and a week late.

- I'm studying for finals right now, so I finally get around to going in this morning (Wednesday).

- The guy there can't find my heads and wanders around lost for a few minutes until the owner's daughter shows up and tells him where they are.

- I asked why it's so much more than what I was quoted and she spouted off some nonsense procedure about how it took 2 hours to extract those 3 studs.

- I don't have time to argue, so I just pay the lady and get the heads home. Then it bugs me what 1994Vmax said about crooked valve seats so I grab my flashlight and take a peak.



Yeah. At least 6 exhaust seats are cut so crooked I can see light through them. I gave them all a tap with the mallet to make sure it wasn't debris or something. Nope, just poor quality work.

I'm going in tomorrow morning to demand a refund so I can take them to a shop that can fix their screw up. Or just order remans. If they offer to fix them I won't take it. I'll do an update when I actually get some usable heads.

 

Umm... Yea. **** that nonsense.

 

I'm out in westlock here which shop was that if you don't mind me asking? You can pm me if you want but just by mentioning his daughter I have a feeling I know already

 

I took them back today and showed the machinist what was going on. He acknowledged his mistake and used a different machine to regrind the seats. He had them ready to go by the end of the day so I'm not too upset, I'm more focused on getting this thing back on the road.


I'd rather not say which shop it is. Cody knows which shop I'm referring to, and I'm sure you know which one I'm talking about. I'm not big on going off on big rants against shops, I just take note and go elsewhere next time. I think it was just a matter of complacency and it just took someone to point out a mistake to realize he wasn't quite paying attention what the quality of his work.


In other news, my daily 1990 Comanche is having issues with the Dana 30 in the front and I fear it's going to entirely grenade soon. So the push is on to get the Denali back together so I can make the 6 hour voyage down the road for Christmas. So, stay tuned (ha) for a big update in a week or two.

 

Man I hate to add salt to your wounds... but there is a set of brand new ported 799 heads on here for that same cost.

All is well that ends well though.