2006 ECSB With Ridetech's New Wishbone Coilover Conversion
06-20-2018, 02:20 PM
#11
Be sure to check those R-joints, to make sure they were assembled correctly. The one in the upper wishbone has come apart on my truck and it doesn't appear that it was assembled correctly. I've been in touch with Ride Tech and they asked for a picture of it on my truck and then if I could assemble it per the illustration here: http://www.ridetech.com/products/r-joint-en/
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06sierra5.3 (06-20-2018)
06-20-2018, 03:49 PM
#14
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06sierra5.3 (06-20-2018)
06-20-2018, 05:36 PM
#16
thank you. A little lower than I wanted, but I can live with it. Just trying to get the kinks worked out
Here's an Imgur album with all the pics: https://imgur.com/a/xQxaOPQ
Here's an Imgur album with all the pics: https://imgur.com/a/xQxaOPQ
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Khaos. (06-23-2018)
06-21-2018, 12:31 PM
#17
I first discovered it while checking my driveshaft for u-joint play, I was getting a driveline vibration that was due to a faulty u-joint. While taking the ds out I noticed that the spiral retaining ring had come out of the joint, it was trapped and just hanging on the through bolt. I put it back together, although incorrectly, and went for another test drive. This time I was making sharp turns back and forth and I could feel the rear end move around. It's like the truck would plant to turn and then you could feel the rear shift over some more and then it would turn. Anyway, decided to hold off and call RT for advise. The pointed my to the layout in the link in my earlier post. I then put it together correctly and it hasn't been a problem since. I'm sure it was just oversight during the original assembly by whomever at RT.
So far, I like it a lot better than the leafs and it rides so much smoother and feels way more planted.
Based on conversations with RT and looking at the test truck they have up on their site, I was expecting to have to buy shorter rear springs to get it down where I want it but was surprised that it's right in the range of what I wanted. I'm currently running 275/40R20's at 28.6" OD and would like a center of fender well opening to ground measurement of 28.5". It's currently about 28 5/8th's in the rear and 28 3/4 in the front.
Rear springs are 225 and my fronts are, I believe, 700. I pieced my front end together before RT offered the kit so, had to come up with spring rates on my own. I used a lot of info from the breeblebox thread on adding coil overs and used some online spring rate calculators. I'd eventually like to change my front upper CO mount to the RT mount and raise my spring rate to 800 or more.
Your deal turned out great btw and good looking truck you got!
So far, I like it a lot better than the leafs and it rides so much smoother and feels way more planted.
Based on conversations with RT and looking at the test truck they have up on their site, I was expecting to have to buy shorter rear springs to get it down where I want it but was surprised that it's right in the range of what I wanted. I'm currently running 275/40R20's at 28.6" OD and would like a center of fender well opening to ground measurement of 28.5". It's currently about 28 5/8th's in the rear and 28 3/4 in the front.
Rear springs are 225 and my fronts are, I believe, 700. I pieced my front end together before RT offered the kit so, had to come up with spring rates on my own. I used a lot of info from the breeblebox thread on adding coil overs and used some online spring rate calculators. I'd eventually like to change my front upper CO mount to the RT mount and raise my spring rate to 800 or more.
Your deal turned out great btw and good looking truck you got!
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06sierra5.3 (06-21-2018)
06-21-2018, 03:22 PM
#18
I first discovered it while checking my driveshaft for u-joint play, I was getting a driveline vibration that was due to a faulty u-joint. While taking the ds out I noticed that the spiral retaining ring had come out of the joint, it was trapped and just hanging on the through bolt. I put it back together, although incorrectly, and went for another test drive. This time I was making sharp turns back and forth and I could feel the rear end move around. It's like the truck would plant to turn and then you could feel the rear shift over some more and then it would turn. Anyway, decided to hold off and call RT for advise. The pointed my to the layout in the link in my earlier post. I then put it together correctly and it hasn't been a problem since. I'm sure it was just oversight during the original assembly by whomever at RT.
So far, I like it a lot better than the leafs and it rides so much smoother and feels way more planted.
Based on conversations with RT and looking at the test truck they have up on their site, I was expecting to have to buy shorter rear springs to get it down where I want it but was surprised that it's right in the range of what I wanted. I'm currently running 275/40R20's at 28.6" OD and would like a center of fender well opening to ground measurement of 28.5". It's currently about 28 5/8th's in the rear and 28 3/4 in the front.
Rear springs are 225 and my fronts are, I believe, 700. I pieced my front end together before RT offered the kit so, had to come up with spring rates on my own. I used a lot of info from the breeblebox thread on adding coil overs and used some online spring rate calculators. I'd eventually like to change my front upper CO mount to the RT mount and raise my spring rate to 800 or more.
Your deal turned out great btw and good looking truck you got!
So far, I like it a lot better than the leafs and it rides so much smoother and feels way more planted.
Based on conversations with RT and looking at the test truck they have up on their site, I was expecting to have to buy shorter rear springs to get it down where I want it but was surprised that it's right in the range of what I wanted. I'm currently running 275/40R20's at 28.6" OD and would like a center of fender well opening to ground measurement of 28.5". It's currently about 28 5/8th's in the rear and 28 3/4 in the front.
Rear springs are 225 and my fronts are, I believe, 700. I pieced my front end together before RT offered the kit so, had to come up with spring rates on my own. I used a lot of info from the breeblebox thread on adding coil overs and used some online spring rate calculators. I'd eventually like to change my front upper CO mount to the RT mount and raise my spring rate to 800 or more.
Your deal turned out great btw and good looking truck you got!
Thanks for the feedback. I just repaired my front shocks, The ***** on the front Vikings hit the lower Strongarm and smashed the ***** it and ruined the lower bearing. Got it buttoned up, fixed a lean in the back and it sits much better now. Just drove it about 15 miles and it feels great. I did some low speed slalom-like turns up and down the street, cranked it around a few corners and it feels solid and tight. I am very happy. I just have to dial it in for DD duty now.
06-22-2018, 02:24 PM
#19
I hear you on dialing it in, more ***** = more possible wrong settings, lol.
Did the hellwig rear bar work with the RT stuff? I've got Hotchkis front and rear bars from on old TVS kit I had on the truck at one time. I took the rear bar off, to have out of the way, to install the RT stuff and haven't had a chance to see if it'll work or not.
Did the hellwig rear bar work with the RT stuff? I've got Hotchkis front and rear bars from on old TVS kit I had on the truck at one time. I took the rear bar off, to have out of the way, to install the RT stuff and haven't had a chance to see if it'll work or not.
06-22-2018, 05:56 PM
#20
I hear you on dialing it in, more ***** = more possible wrong settings, lol.
Did the hellwig rear bar work with the RT stuff? I've got Hotchkis front and rear bars from on old TVS kit I had on the truck at one time. I took the rear bar off, to have out of the way, to install the RT stuff and haven't had a chance to see if it'll work or not.
Did the hellwig rear bar work with the RT stuff? I've got Hotchkis front and rear bars from on old TVS kit I had on the truck at one time. I took the rear bar off, to have out of the way, to install the RT stuff and haven't had a chance to see if it'll work or not.
1. The Hellwig rear bar his the exhaust hanger that's welded on to the crossmember, it needs to be cut off.
2. My exhaust was in the way of the sway bar, so it had to come off. So with those 2 things, we ended up cutting the exhaust off almost back to the muffler. It actually sounds a bit better now.
My truck was 1"+ lower in the rear from left to right. I got under the truck and this is what I was looking at. Sway bar end hitting the exhaust hangar.
I cut it off and re-tightened the bar. You can see how far it moved outwards on its own from the original position
Also, the other side need to be repositioned
At first, I cut just the end of the exhaust off, but then it lifted and sat against the suspension brackets, so we just cut it off back to the muffler
we cut the exhaust back to about the green line, right to the other hangar
This is what the bar looks like from above, crazy swoopy shape
