lycominghunter

iTrader: (2)

I've heard pretty good things about assassin bars as well. They do require the hole drilled in the leaf springs which I hear can be a pain. Another thing though, theyre cheaper than caltracs.

I may have to try clamping the leafs...

lycominghunter

iTrader: (2)

Work, the house, and funds have been making progress slow, but I have a few updates. My assassin bars came in and they're beefy! Should be able to handle my mighty 4.8 just fine...for now. Hopefully I'll have time this week or next weekend to get them installed and head back to the track for some new times.

Also got an O2 bung welded into my y-pipe and got the wideband installed. Boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge aren't hooked up yet, but they light up. I have them wired into the dash dimmer switch so that's pretty cool.

Haven't hooked up the wideband to HPTuners yet, but its tuned pretty decently during normal driving, stays right around 14.6-14.8 afr. I need to go back in and change my fueling and spark because in PE mode (set to 13.1) I have way too much fuel in the map. WOT afr was in low to mid 12's in the lower areas of the rpm, so I have to change that. So that was hurting HP a little bit I guess. Questions:
1) What values are you using to designate PE? I have PE Delay rpm set to 3000 rpm which will be the rpm stall I'll be getting soon. What MAP (kpa) values are you using to dictate PE/WOT? 85 kpa? stock was 95kpa I believe...
2) I was to do a roll pan but I'm not sure I want to get rid of my hitch. I don't do much trailering but its nice to have when you do. I've looked and haven't found any hitches that are compatible with a roll pan, although I'm sure theyre out there.
3) I have been thinking about going with a TBSS/NNBS with the larger TB and possibly 4" MAF but when its turbo'd I'm not sure its really going to be worth the extra couple hundred dollars. I don't plan on be N/A for much longer, hoping to have it turbo'd over the winter. Suggestions?
4) The plan is to get a 3000 yank converter, but the question is 1) do I get one for the 4.8 flex plate 2) get one for the 6.0 flex plate and change the current one when I install the 80e or 3) get a converter for the 4.8 and swap over the 4.8 flex plate to the 6.0 whenever I do the engine swap in the future?
5) I currently have the mcgaughy helper bags on the rear and I don't know if I want to leave them on or take them off. With it empty I'm just running 10-15 psi which levels the truck out nice and helps with ride quality. If I take them off though, the truck squats a little bit in the rear and I don't like it. I guess I might take them off this winter and cut some off the coils in front to level it out...
If only i had the time for all of this, Thanks for the help!

oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

Good to see you're still working on the truck man! My PE is set to .87 lambda (12.79AFR) and 55KPA . I have seen some guys do a roll pan and then get a license plate flip up kit. That way they can pull the license plate up, pin the hitch in, and tow when they want. As far as the intake goes, I put the TBSS on my 4.8L cause I already had the LS7 90mm throttle body. Boost seems to solve any airflow restriction problems you might have so if you can put that money somewhere else that makes more sense, I wouldn't do the intake. Jarrett ran 9's with a stock NBS intake. I'm pretty sure the 4.8/5.3 came with the 4L60e flexplate so you can just take that flexplate and use on behind the 6.0L. Correct me if I wrong yall.

lycominghunter

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Jake and yes I'm still working on it...I have some low (numerically) MAP value right now set for my PE and I feel its a little too low. I was thinking of just switching flex plates too so I can keep the same converter which is what I had found was possible while I was doing some research, so I guess that would work. Do flex plates go bad at all? And Jarrett's truck definitely proves that "Boost seems to solve any airflow restriction problems you might have".

I currently have the hitch that has 2 bolts in the center that tie into the bumper and 3 on each side that go through the frame so I definitely can't keep that hitch If I do a roll pan, which I think im going to do because my neighbor is a body work guru. Might also shave the bed pockets and tail gate latch while we're at it.

All of you guys chiming in on my build, do you have any other suggestions? Engine, appearance, etc? I like to hear other people's opinions and ideas because usually they're better'n mine

fastjweb

iTrader: (2)

well, you know I dont know tuning, so I cant help you there. My truck has the roll pan with the hidden hitch/flip up plate, if you would like to see it and see what you need to modify on yours. You can keep your flexplate, and Circle D can build your converter for the 80e for your 3 bolt flexplate, or spend a little extra cash and get the better flexplate he sells, he has 2 options, better and better then the better haha. I dont know if other converter shops do that aswell but they might. I have an extra 80e to 6.0 flexplate if you want it, its the 6 bolt design, but I do not have the spacer that is needed for that to work, but you can find one. Gauges look good,and so do those bars. Like I told you when I met you, you get that 60ft down, you have mid 14s in it how it sits. good luck

lycominghunter

iTrader: (2)

Jason, I'll have to check out your roll pan and hitch and get the information. As for the converter I was planning on going with a yank, but I gotta do some research this week so I can order the converter. BTW, im heading to the track next Friday Im pretty sure. You and your brother going?

Got some work done on the truck this weekend. Didn't quite get traction bars installed. Was drilling the last hole through the leaf and my carbide bit broke. I'll get some pics of the completed install tomorrow.

Used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the overload leaf and the 2nd leaf back a little bit. Then I hit the cut ends with some paint.

I took a bunch of material out towards the front of the rear brackets in order to make the leaf center bolt fit better. This in turn made the u-bolts have a more perpendicular angle to the leaf pack.

Drilled out a 1/2 hole and got to play dentist for a while with the dremel. Turned out pretty well.

Big thanks to 03RCSB for posting up a good thread about installing these bars. It helped a lot! Thanks bud. Completed pics will be up tomorrow. I'm not making much power at the moment so im pretty sure there won't be any wheel spin now.

lycominghunter

iTrader: (2)

Well I finally got the traction bars done, but I haven't gotten to try them out yet. I do still have to clamp the front of the leaf springs back together but I'm not quite sure how I want to do that yet... Maybe I'll be able to get some tuning done tomorrow and hopefully hit the track on Friday.

Here you can see how much of the threads on the heim joint are exposed. I should've measured the length of threads before I buttoned the bars up because now Im not sure how much is threaded into the bars...I might have to order some longer heim joints.

Losing ground clearance, one mod at a time! I had to be careful on speed bumps before, but now I don't even think I want to try!

lycominghunter

iTrader: (2)

Haven't been doing much because of my work schedule, but I just came across a machine but disassembled stock lq9 and a 3500 stall from a LS1/4l60e as a package deal for a pretty good price. Does anyone know if the LS1 and 4.8 flexplate are the same? If not does it just require the flexplate holes elongated, spacer, longer bolts, etc? Thanks!

fastjweb

iTrader: (2)

ls1 is the same as the 4.8/5.3 flex plate, you will be fine using the converter from a ls1/4l60E. That converter might be on the loose end though, you wont know until you try it. 6.0/80e combos get the different plate. When i did my 6.0 swap though, i used my 5.3 flex plate ease of not using a spacer, and went with the circle D 3 bolt converter for the 80e.

02RCLB

Cool Build! Subscribed to see the future!