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While chasing this squeaking noise I pulled the transfer case. Tore it down to find that 135k miles took its toll on the main shaft splines that come in contact with the input shaft stub. They were damn near knife edged. The rear housing that holds the output shaft bearing was worn enough to move around freely and the rear housing output bushing was toast which also started to work on the drive shaft yoke.
Yes, I used the merchant auto pump cover. the pumps are all the same part number. Most of the parts in the 149 are the same as the 246 and others. However, one difference I came across is that on the 246, 261, and 263 they output shaft bearing and reluctor wheel slide on and off by hand with is. The 149 needed to be pressed on and pulled off, and the reluctor wheel is different. I damaged mine pulling it off but the replacement was only $20...even though I’m not even using the speed sensor in the t-case since the 4l80 swap.
I also got time to finish fabbing up the rest of the exhaust with the Borla xr1 and QTP 4” cutout.
The truck is up and running great. The rebuild on the T-case fixed the “squeaking” noise, I’m pretty sure the rear housing output bushing was the culprit but the other worn/replaced parts were needed. No more knock when shifting from reverse to drive.
The Borla xr1 sounds amazing. Very subtle and quiet but still has a nice sound to it. It feels like the added back pressure definitely spoils this big exhaust housing a bit faster. I’m in love with driving the truck all over again. Zero drone at any cruising speed. The electric cutout for an open 4” is ridiculously loud especially with the dump under the cab but it’s needed at times.
I also finally got got around to ditching the Calmax drop hangers that I got with the Caltracs bars and installed Belltech 2”drop hangers to level the rear to the front. The Caltracs brackets fit perfectly inside the Belltech hangers. However I did have to notch the Belltech hangers to allow space for the lower rear rod end nut on the bars.
Oct 24, 2018 | 11:42 PM
