wanting to spray with turbo
#11
When does your truck start making boost? Obviously for better 60s you need to be able to build boost before you leave. A 3200 will be a HUGE improvment but I am concerned it won't be high enough to ring all of the 60 ft potential from your truck. Regardless you will drop alot of time off with the 3200 just a bit more with a higher stall.
#13
Then I would go 3400 or so. Because break stalling it a 3200 will start to push hard around 2800 maybe before. Therfore you will redlight or not fully accomplish what you are trying to do because you won't be able to spool up much. Maybe a more seasoned turbo person will know what stall you need for sure but with my knowledge a 3400 should do you well.
#14
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From: colorado above 6000 ft.
I run a 50 shot on Tricks P guage which has a a controller built in. You can go progressive 2 ways by time or RPM. I was spraying right out of the hole to get better 60ft. times and ramping down to 0 by 5k rpm. I would start small like a 35 -50 shot and work your way up from there.
#15
Then I would go 3400 or so. Because break stalling it a 3200 will start to push hard around 2800 maybe before. Therfore you will redlight or not fully accomplish what you are trying to do because you won't be able to spool up much. Maybe a more seasoned turbo person will know what stall you need for sure but with my knowledge a 3400 should do you well.
Oh and I just bought a 2-step too, so I'll be able to try it and the N2O to see which, (or both) works better at the track.
#16
I just did some trading for a single nozzle wet kit and gonna try spraying mine out of the hole just to get consistent launches and lower 60's. I want to do a little bracket racing next years, so I think a 75 shot on a 3000-4500 window switch will light the turbo and get the job done.
#18
A few reasons, fuel delivery might not be up to the task, rotating assembly might not be able to handle that much power, do that later down the line to become faster, and so to not go too fast were you may need a chute,cage or other safety items.. There are plenty of other reason too.
#19
Let me edumicat you a little on Turbo stall speeds,
Most stall speeds are based on NA power. For instance, I have a Circle D 10.5" 2800 converter. NA, before I start making boost, it stalls up to about 27-2800 rpm. Then, the longer I hold it there, the boost starts to build and the stall speed goes up. I can foot brake to about 7psi and that pushes my 2800 stall out to about 3350. With a turbo, you want it to NA stall right about where you start making boost and then let it clime from there. If your stall is too loose, it will blow right though it cuz its too easy to make boost and you will never be able to hold it on the line. Make since?
Oh and I just bought a 2-step too, so I'll be able to try it and the N2O to see which, (or both) works better at the track.
Oh and I just bought a 2-step too, so I'll be able to try it and the N2O to see which, (or both) works better at the track.

This being the case you would do your best to be the last one to stage so you have a rhythm for building boost and still getting good reaction times.
#20
I've got plenty of turbo to make the power I want, I just don't like to have to sit on the line waiting for it to build boost against the foot brake. Makes it really hard to be consistent. So with spraying off the line, just till it builds full boost will make it a lot easier to be consistent. Make since?


