NITROUS OXIDE System Designs | Installation| Wet/Dry/Direct Port

Safe spray?

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Old 12-21-2005, 09:19 AM
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Go on and blow it up slow I was currious what a SAFE dry shot would be, but I guess it all depends. If I spray 100+ I will go wet. No question to it. I do personally know guy that blew his intake while on an on ramp spraying a 150 shot, because of puddling, but if I spray, Im gonna do it as safe as reasonable. Slow you will have more tied up in your safteys than I have in my whole motor , but with what you have into it, I dont blame you one bit. I was just thinking of going 50 or maybe 75 dry and stepping up to a 100-125 wet later.
Old 12-21-2005, 02:18 PM
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I already have my dyno jet wideband commander for monitoring the a/f and for when I get HPT after the first of the year so it wasnt just for that plus I got it on a GP for a damn good price. It just so happens to have the outputs to control things for just like what Im talking about. Also another hting to consider is a remtoe bottle opener so if the nitrous noid sticks open you can hit the switch and shut off the nitrous. Now the chances are not too good that you will notice the nitrous noid is stuck open and hit the remote bottle opener switch in time to cut off the nitrous feed but its a possibility and atleast with my motor maybe since its all forged it can take it for a second or two. The good thing about a dry kit is that you can convert it to wet later on. White I know you got HPT you need to check your injetor duty cycle at WOT and see what they are at if they are at 85% or above dont even try a dry shot atleast I wouldnt if you were going to spray a 75 shot.
Old 12-21-2005, 08:31 PM
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I agree with the all wet crowd. Dry shots are for experienced squeezers and tuners. In order to know how much of a dry shot N2O can be used, you need to log how much fuel the engine is using without nitrous especially when mods that use more fuel are added. If the injector duty cycle is above 80-85% and the air/fuel number is climbing from stall rpm to shift rpm, you better figure out fuel problems first.(bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump,clogged filter etc.) At the least start with the smallest jet. A .028 jet (25hp) is less than 10 bucks. Start with the smallest and work up.
Old 12-21-2005, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
I already have my dyno jet wideband commander for monitoring the a/f and for when I get HPT after the first of the year so it wasnt just for that plus I got it on a GP for a damn good price. It just so happens to have the outputs to control things for just like what Im talking about. Also another hting to consider is a remtoe bottle opener so if the nitrous noid sticks open you can hit the switch and shut off the nitrous. Now the chances are not too good that you will notice the nitrous noid is stuck open and hit the remote bottle opener switch in time to cut off the nitrous feed but its a possibility and atleast with my motor maybe since its all forged it can take it for a second or two. The good thing about a dry kit is that you can convert it to wet later on. White I know you got HPT you need to check your injetor duty cycle at WOT and see what they are at if they are at 85% or above dont even try a dry shot atleast I wouldnt if you were going to spray a 75 shot.
Just a couple things. On a dry hit if your noid sticks open you'll know for sure. The rpms will go up and stay up, as the maf still injects extra fuel, so no going lean. This dose not happen on a wet, and fuel will stop but n2o will still flow and you go way lean, and...
On the injector duty cycle the rec limit is 80%, but this fir continuse use, so as not to wear injecters out prematurely. Now if you ocassionaly go over 80% for a 1/4 run, no problems many, many do it. Just stay away from going static (100%) as the pulsing has totoaly stopped and they can get hot and fail early than they should. One corvette guy is running 11.09 on a 200 dry hit and running 140% duty cycle and does it a lot. So in conclusion, duty cyle is the pulsing of the injector to meter fuel and not an idicator of total flow. Meaning, even at 100%, this does mean they can't still supply past this cycle it just means pulsing has stopped. I myself would not go past 90/95% and have reached 480rwhp on stock 28lb'ers. But if your not sure, better safe than sorry.
Robert
Old 12-21-2005, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Just a couple things. On a dry hit if your noid sticks open you'll know for sure. The rpms will go up and stay up, as the maf still injects extra fuel, so no going lean. This dose not happen on a wet, and fuel will stop but n2o will still flow and you go way lean, and...
On the injector duty cycle the rec limit is 80%, but this fir continuse use, so as not to wear injecters out prematurely. Now if you ocassionaly go over 80% for a 1/4 run, no problems many, many do it. Just stay away from going static (100%) as the pulsing has totoaly stopped and they can get hot and fail early than they should. One corvette guy is running 11.09 on a 200 dry hit and running 140% duty cycle and does it a lot. So in conclusion, duty cyle is the pulsing of the injector to meter fuel and not an idicator of total flow. Meaning, even at 100%, this does mean they can't still supply past this cycle it just means pulsing has stopped. I myself would not go past 90/95% and have reached 480rwhp on stock 28lb'ers. But if your not sure, better safe than sorry.
Robert
Homeslice is who you are referring to I do believe.

I'm wondering once I get my setup put back together what my A/F ratio will read at... I'm going to be spraying 5-7'' away from the wires again.

The closer, the colder, the richer... Right?

Homeslice is spraying 2-3'' directly at the wire and reads,
What did he say... 11.0 A/F?
Old 12-21-2005, 09:40 PM
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I'm a dry shot fan my self.. Most of the LS1 F-bodys and vette's at the track i go to use dry without any problem..
Old 12-21-2005, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Sport Side
Homeslice is who you are referring to I do believe.

I'm wondering once I get my setup put back together what my A/F ratio will read at... I'm going to be spraying 5-7'' away from the wires again.

The closer, the colder, the richer... Right?

Homeslice is spraying 2-3'' directly at the wire and reads,
What did he say... 11.0 A/F?
Generally that is nwhat happens. It's not changing the a/f, but rather accessing the table in the higher regions. Meaning, because it reading so cold computer thinks there is so much more air going thru that it changes duty cycle to add more fuel. Sometimes close can be tricky to tune, though. Yea Homeslice.
Robert
Old 12-22-2005, 02:09 PM
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Default Dry shot opinion

Originally Posted by Sport Side
Feel free to express your thoughts but remember that no one will take you seriously unless you give arguments for your comments or arguments against others.

Thanks.
All I know is what I have experianced, 2000 ford lightning with 65 dry shot droped #5 while using this dry shot.
A friend of mine bought the lighting system, we added fuel noid made it a wet 100 shot and have not had any problems with it!!!
Old 12-22-2005, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Generally that is nwhat happens. It's not changing the a/f, but rather accessing the table in the higher regions. Meaning, because it reading so cold computer thinks there is so much more air going thru that it changes duty cycle to add more fuel. Sometimes close can be tricky to tune, though. Yea Homeslice.
Robert

Gotcha. I got my setup together... I'm going to go try it out a bit later.
Old 12-22-2005, 07:54 PM
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250, 300 shot is safe


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