Ok so, I am about to get the NX kit finally completed after a few years of going back and forth, but I have a question about timing. I know most people say go get a dynotune and they can pull timing from there and I agree, but what about the LN 2000, MSD Timing Control Box, etc? I have an NX Express WOT/TPS module, but that's about it in regards to the complete setup. The thing is, this is a street truck (not a DD) and I still want good power off the bottle. My mods are: SBE 5.3 08 CC Sierra, factory 3.73 gears, 2/4 drop, longtubes, catless y pipe and bullet muff, built RPM level 6 tranny (4L60), Circle D 3200 stall, Tick Cam 22x/23x 619/606, lightly ported heads and valve job, "660 springs, pushrods, etc.

I just need help deciding on how to pull timing, using a solo dynotune N/A, and just seeing what the nitrous does, or get a second tune for racing. I've heard the LN 2000 is the way to go in addition to a dynotune. If so, would I even need my window switch/tps module from NX??? Any ideas and help is appreciated.

 

For every 50 shot, you should be pulling 2-3 degrees of timing.

Example: if your running at 150 shot, Pull 9 degrees from your WOT timing table. Then after a couple runs, you might be able to add back in 1-2 degrees or none. The NO2 acts as additional fuel, so you shouldnt have to make it richer.

 

Nitrous by itself does not act as extra fuel. You may wana rethink that statement. If that were the case there would be not need for wet kits and everyone that uses nitrous would be on dry kits only. Nitrous is an oxidizer and it used alone is basically, for lack of better technical terms, adding extra, colder/denser oxygen to the engine. That alone would cause the engine to run lean. Same basic concept as adding forced induction to a motor, you wouldnt add boost and not add fuel for the same reason, lean condition. You do need additional fueling when using nitrous. That being said for what the o.p. sounds like he wants, a wet kit would be best so he is not spraying extra fuel when not on the spray and the LNC module can pull timing when the system is active. To be fair the O.P. did not specify wet/dry kit so it could have been assumed that he ment a wet kit but again, nitrous by itself is not additional fuel.

I personally have used a wet kit and when dialing in the system using an a/f wideband, adding more nitrous without adding fuel would make the engine go leaner. The spark plugs would tell you the same story if you can pull them after every run like youre supposed to to fine tune the setup.

 

I think that's what Tampa meant as he's a long time tuner but I guess it did need clarification for those that wouldn't know dry vs. wet. Thank you sir. Good explanation.

 

Yea, I understand how much to pull and all of that, and how to run the kit itself, I was simply asking about how to pull timing...MSD Box, Lingenfelter, etc...or just get on the dyno with HP Tuners. It already has a mild HP tune, but all of this will change obviously. I'm running the 90mm plate kit from NX. I have had this kit a long time, but never ran it due to retarded tuners (very inexperienced) where I live. My question is about a timing control module and/or dynotune. I need help with this and would be interested in travelling to DFW/Austin/Houston.

 

A separate tune file would be optimal. However, in the absence of being able to change the tune file at your liberty, I would use another option....can provide details of you're interested.

 

@smokeshow....I am interested for sure. I wish I knew how to use HP tuners, would be ok then.

 

Not many folks use the dry systems anymore so I wasnt thinking that direction, but the wet systems also injects additional amount of the fuel and my experience it does makes the air fuel ratio richer.

 

I have a Nitrous Outlet wet plate kit, and use a WOT switch (or a button when bracket racing), an NX Maximizer EZ progressive controller (capable of zero-4.5 second delay), and an LNC-2000 (which is capable of 0-15 degrees of retard, but it is NOT progressive. If you set it for 10 degrees retard, it's 10 degrees retard when energized, period).

IMO, this is hands down the EASIEST setup to use.

I rented dyno time to dial in the timing and AFR on my car both when N/A, and with a 150 and a 200 shot.
My AFR goal was 12.5:1 N/A and 11.5:1 with nitrous. Met both quite easily, with minimal changes.
Car is 4005# with me in it, and typically runs 12.3-12.5 @ 111-113 N/A
Went 11.20@120 with a 100 shot, and 10.69@125 with a 150 shot.
Have tried a 250 shot, a few times, but the little 275/50's don't want any parts of that...lol
The car is 100% NOT optimized for N/A Dragstrip duty.
The triple disc converter is way too tight, as it was originally used behind a turbo setup. (1.79 best 60' N/A, 1.49 best with a 150 shot)

anyway...

The way I am setup, nothing changes in the day to day N/A tune, unless, and ONLY IF, I use the nitrous.
The nitrous "button" or WOT switch engages the nitrous solenoids AND the LNC-2000 timing retard simultaneously.

EZ-Peazy...super simple to "dial in" retard amount, 2 step rev limiter, etc....I also have the LNC-2000 connected to my HPTuners MPVIPro, to log ACTUAL nitrous timing retard, and ACTUAL real time ignition nitrous assisted spark timing.

For bracket racing, I use a handheld button, a 200 shot, and zero delay on the Maximizer EZ...used solely for the top end of the track.
For Test & Tunes, I use whatever shot, the WOT switch, and usually a 1/2 to 1 second delay, depending on how the track is working that day.
And, for fun weekend cruising. I use the WOT switch, zero delay and anywhere from 100-250 shot...lol.

I use anywhere from 5 degrees, to 12 degrees retard, depending on size of nitrous shot.

 

I run a lnc2000 to pull timing along with a nos mini progressive.
I could run it on my NA tune but I do my own tuning so I have a separate tune to get afr exactly how I want it for every jet size.