NITROUS OXIDE System Designs | Installation| Wet/Dry/Direct Port

Bottle heater and drag radials to help my HSW wet kit.

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Old May 6, 2008 | 05:41 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by LMSeven
There are options for low end torque cams, they just aren't advertised (as much) because everyone wants big HP numbers, and that's what generally sells.

Here's a start for example:
http://speed-eng.com/store/product_i...oducts_id=8420

I bet that will give that 4.8 a nice bump in torque. Just a start, custom grinding is the way to go, but it gives you an idea of the general .050 durations you'll be looking into for low end power for towing. Also Yank TT series (truck) converters are tight, and supposedly offer stock like towing capabilities.
Comp Cams 54-412-11 1200-6000 rpms is another small cam. It's what I'm sitting on til other things fall into place. I was told it's 1 step over stock.

15.4 on motor & now u are @ 13.87, right? If u ran in similiar weather, that doesn't sound all bad; that's a drop in ET of 1.53sec. Some due to juice, good tire helps too. Get a tune, CAI, & some exhaust. If u can, do both headers & catback. Let it breathe.

Last edited by fastnblu; May 6, 2008 at 05:51 PM.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Thanks everyone for you advice. I'm still not sure on the cam or torque converter, but now I'm thinking of long tubes; i've heard shorties aren't worth the money. I'm looking into the AEM brute force intake. Any good results with this? I"m not really sold on intakes, but if its going to help a decent amount, I might get me one.

Toomny

Are you retarding 3* timing from stock, or from your tune? I've been told here that stock timing is fine for a 125 shot. I have the timing tuner so I can pull timing if I need to. I have a 3" magnaflow dumped, and have 3" pipe from the stock y-pipe to the muffler. Do you think long tubes will help this setup, or will I kill what little torque I have.


Fastnblu and LMseven,

Thanks for the cam advice, if/when I go that route, I'll look into those. With either of those cams do I need new valvesprings? Regarding the times, the 15.4 was run in 60* air with stock wheels and a 27" tire, and elevation is the same for all runs. The 13.87 was around 75* air, and thats with drag radials 26" tire. Without the DR's, first gear is useless with the nitrous.


With all this good info here, its just too easy to find ways to spend money on my truck. Thanks all.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chevytruckguy
Thanks everyone for you advice. I'm still not sure on the cam or torque converter, but now I'm thinking of long tubes; i've heard shorties aren't worth the money. I'm looking into the AEM brute force intake. Any good results with this? I"m not really sold on intakes, but if its going to help a decent amount, I might get me one.

Toomny

Are you retarding 3* timing from stock, or from your tune? I've been told here that stock timing is fine for a 125 shot. I have the timing tuner so I can pull timing if I need to. I have a 3" magnaflow dumped, and have 3" pipe from the stock y-pipe to the muffler. Do you think long tubes will help this setup, or will I kill what little torque I have.


Fastnblu and LMseven,

Thanks for the cam advice, if/when I go that route, I'll look into those. With either of those cams do I need new valvesprings? Regarding the times, the 15.4 was run in 60* air with stock wheels and a 27" tire, and elevation is the same for all runs. The 13.87 was around 75* air, and thats with drag radials 26" tire. Without the DR's, first gear is useless with the nitrous.


With all this good info here, its just too easy to find ways to spend money on my truck. Thanks all.
Shorties are not as good as LTs, but...In Cali, u can't legally run LTs, right?

Toomny also has more than 1 cam; GM's only have a single cam. I'd seriously think bout a custom tune. I always think LTs will help, but I have a bias.
U always gotta consider weather as it relates to ETs.

I say upgrade to some 918 springs as a safeguard, especially if u have lots of miles on truck. Plus, I just called Comp I think it was Friday, he asked how many miles I had. I said, 48K - he told me to replace timing chain while I'm in there. Great...more $ I don't have!

Do u have a certain budget?
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Old May 6, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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I dont think LT's are legal but people still run em. With a tune the timing will be advanced, so won't I have to retard when onthe nitrous? I have a hypercrap, but I don't use their programming. To be honest, my truck runs better with the stock tuning; hypercraps pings even with 91 octane gas. Regarding the 918 springs, I heard somewhere, might have been here or on ls1tech, that there was a recall on those springs. Are there others to use, or has comp cams fixed this problem.? Timing chain at 48K seems a little early, but since youre there i guess it can't hurt. Regarding the budget; I've priced out the AEM for around 280, and long tubes aren't cheap. I don't mind spending the money for mods that are going to work, I just don't want to waste it on anything. I've spent about a grand for the nitrous parts, and I know they work. I'm a little leery about spending a grand on a CAI and LT's. If they'll shave a half a second, I might get em. The cams are around 400, and springs about 200, so theres 600 there. If it get all of the above I'll about spend my economic stimulus money . Thanks for the info.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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Most on here love their Pacesetters. Mine are Dynatech LTs, works for me. I'm still learning tuning...as my sig says. But I believe that's true. Most say stay away from Hypercrap, but I never went that route, so I'm not worried.

Yes, on the 918s, but only those w/ a blue stripe. Comp fixed the problem now. Trust me, I spoke about that too. There was a thread about it last week u can check it out if u like. I found a good price on that cam too. What LTs u thinkin? Again, most that don't worry bout Johnny Law put on Pacesetter w/ a Y. It's all about parts that make up the total combo---> look to your goal(s) for future. What u put on now might not seem like it adds that much, but will contribute as u go lookin for more powa. U already went for the kill shot w/ lowering ETs w/ nitrous. So unless u r springing for a Radix or Turbo, gains won't be 1 sec here, 1 sec there. After those 3 mods, stall, & gears to make ETs improve in terms of big difference. Then, it's smaller increments.

Look @ a tune. Sponsors---> You'll need it sooner or later, & as u mod too.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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I bought the hypercrap before checking on any boards, so thats my fault. I use it for gear and tire correction, though. I just got done reading about the faulty 918's, and I wanted to know will the LS6 springs work with those cams mentioned earlier, or should I just get the 918's? I'm looking at the pacesetters and their ypipe. Are there any vendors here that have good prices on the pacesetter? If I go with the coated headers and the ypipe, I'm looking at about 600 bucks, and they look like they are going to flow well, so I might be getting them. If I go with the black painted I'm looking at about 450 for the headers and ypipe. I don't go to the coast and theres no snow or road salt here, so I might go with the uncoated headers. I'm still not sold on the CAI, but that might be next month. As for gears I've got 3.73's and posi, and I'm not going to get a sperchager or turbos. I really need to stay off this forum, it really rationalizes spending more money on my truck.
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Old May 6, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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I never knew of Hypercraps being that bad too I started reading on here of them; tire correction was why I almost bought 1 some time ago. U could use Z06 springs w/ a Z06 cam too. As for if Z06 springs will work w/ the earlier mentioned Comp cams, not sure on what lift they go to...lemme check. Be right back.

FWIW, the faulty 918s( blue stripe) were good to .600"; the new, improved are good to .625"/ before coil bind. I know they'll work for my combo.

It appears on Z06 springs lift capacity, from what I found is ~. 575 I figured it was around there, I thought @ a minimum, .550"; so around .575 is even better. Z06 springs have increased lift cap. & use different material than the plain Gen3 motor they use on Vettes. ha
I knew it was up there since 1st yr Z06 were @ .500", after were @ .525/.525".

I found ya a Z06 cam for $215 new. Or $315 for other Z-cam. Or a pkg Z06 cam kit for $730 w/ all the goodies. ( I hope u know they use diff. pushrods)!!! Those springs by themselves are $145.

There ya have it! It's a known thing 918s r good, they might have a better Comp spring, IDK...I know they have a 921, I think it's...I'll let u check. Those r ~$180.

That should help u spend some $. Add shpg to all these prices.

Last edited by fastnblu; May 6, 2008 at 08:58 PM. Reason: Found info!
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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:55 AM
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Thanks fast for all the good info, and I think if I do anything it will be the pacesetters and ypipe. Maybe the CAI, but I need to be sold on that first. That cam information is great, but I'm not quite sure if I'm ready to that yet. I'm guessing for any of the above mentioned cams, I'll also be looking at springs and pushrods; so the total cost would be 700-800 right? I'm trying to decide if I need the armorcoated headers or gamble with the black.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by chevytruckguy
Do you have a tune from him? If yes, how do you like it?
my buddy derek just got a dyno tune on monday from him,he says its awesome ,and when i rode in it ,it felt great

that damn thing runs like a champ now

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...r.php?u=108971

PM him to discuss it more if you want
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Old May 7, 2008 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by chevytruckguy
Toomny

Are you retarding 3* timing from stock, or from your tune? I've been told here that stock timing is fine for a 125 shot. I have the timing tuner so I can pull timing if I need to. I have a 3" magnaflow dumped, and have 3" pipe from the stock y-pipe to the muffler. Do you think long tubes will help this setup, or will I kill what little torque I have.

yep i have 5 maps in my ecu 4 for drag racing and 1 stock map used for towing and going to dealership.. have 2 n/a mapsand 2 nitrous maps the nitrous maps are pretty much identical cept they pulled 3 degrees of timing after 3000rpms from the na map
..
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