What harness/ECU/PCM are we talking about? This is a race truck, not a street cruiser. You already have wiring to the tach and gauges, right? Power to the fuel pump? You're only wiring up the MSD ignition box. No fuel injection concerns (going to a carb) and no computer controlled transmission (th350), right? NO harness is needed. Use the stock coils that come with the motor. The only expense needed to run good ET's is an aftermarket cam, valve springs, and push rods. The lifters do wear out with lots of miles. If I were getting a 100k+ motor, I'd consider new lifters and a valve job. With a racing cam, you're looking at near 400 hp to the rear wheels. Low 12's in the quarter if it hooks ok. If enough weight is taken out high 11's aren't out of the question. Just shift at 6,200-6,300 rpm if you don't want to put in a set of ARP rod bolts, and settle for 12's. Oil pan should be a GM 19212593 kit. (about ~$155) Depending on the motor mount locations, it should just clear. A little trimming might be needed, the lower the motor sits.
Hondamatic

 

Alright, thanks! The truck is just a track truck, and is crazy light already, and getting lighter by the day! Thanks for the P/N.

-SS

 

www.v8s10s.com

 

What's the link for? Just saw some trucks that were for sale or sold.

-SS

 

I am currently doing about the same thing as you, I am building a carbd 5.3 for ease and so i can tune it myself....ARP rod bolts are cheap insurance, they cost about $80 and you can install them yourself...as for the msd/edelbrock controller remember that the edelbrock one is non adjustable, the msd 6010 is by far the better one, has a 2 step, retard and fully adjustable comes with a harness already too. I am running a victor jr style intake as well as ported heads and a nice custom cam. Hoping for some 6.50s on a small shot in the 1/8'th and street driven....we will see good luck anymore questions just ask

 

Horsepower Tv had an lsx conversion on today, got parts from one company with new front timing chain cover put in new cam ran dyno very stout motor. Distributor in front and used F@@# distributor with different gear and had spot for fuel pump (mech) at front top of engine! check out their site

 

if your going to stay carb, use an old small block and go big cubes. dont rape a lsx motor with a carbed setup. Why not step up to fuel injection?

 

I have a total of 800 in my 5.3l swap. Everything works just as it would with the old 4.3l

 

unless you are spinning it above 7K arp rod bolts are not needed.