No to add fuel to the "omg $$" fire, but I just spent nearly $500 on ~6' of 4" tube, some couplers, a filter and didn't even get clamps lmao. Even "China" T bolts in the sizes I need are outrageous

***** just.... wild. Sadly thinking the Tahoe and Corvette will be the last projects I can afford to build

nice job on the swap! And cute boat 🤣

 

sorry I havent posted much in here. I was slacking then waiting on parts, had to go fishing a few times and handle some apt business bs. anyways I dropped the 5.3l in last night, today got allot of it hooked up, passenger side header and uca have been modded and clearanced. drivers side will get done tomorrow. ebay $23 swap brackets fit great. had to put the gm muscle car pan on it because it was just a really tight fit even with notching the cross member. relocated the battery to under the bed behind the diff. also put a blazer rear sway bar on the truck right before i swapped it and it feels like a huge improvement over no bar.

also for my NPP muffler I hooked up the evap purge solenoid T'd off the vacuum signal (which will have a check valve to accumulate vacuum) I would like to use the shift light to control the evap solenoid as the parameters seem like they would be super easy to setup to control it. the problem Im having is finding which ecu pin to for it. also Im assuming the pcm probably puts a ground signal out when that shift light is turned on unless Im wrong. Ive read the f Body guys say red connector pin 47. if anyone has wired up a shift light from the pcm please chime in.

battery box and rear sway pictured.


stock tahoe air box with K and N drop in filter. still gotta build brackets for it and mod the water neck on the water pump.



and $500 for 4" pipe is insane. I definitely forgot how badly projects will nickel and dime you. I had a bunch of small things I had to keep ordering because I definitely failed to plan this build out well. lol. that being said i am super excited for this truck and plan to 5.3l, nv3500 swap my 2000 s10 extended cab I picked up. it will be a cammed motor with some ported heads but the trucks on bags and I plan to get the bag setup redone first and make the truck handle well before swapping it (better sway bars, front shocks recessed into the frame and limit straps to set a nice low ride height while allowing a higher bag pressure to keep it a little stiffer. building **** is just expensive even if your a dirt cheap junk yard used parts and budget building person like my self.

 

Been slacking a bit on my 91 s10. Found out the collumn shift linkage hits the back of the head and it’s a real bitch to get to with the motor in there. Not sure how I’m gonna go about it but hopefully I can disconnect the linkage from the collumn to modify it. The blue speaker wire is for the evap solenoid I’ll be using to control the exhaust valve.




also finally got the wheel spacers I needed to throw my c7 wheels on. I put my old junk tires off my c6 z06 onto them so they are pretty chunky looking on narrow body wheels but they look good on the truck and fit really good after some 2lb sledge hammer finessing. The truck can still fully air down. With 2.5” spacers up front and 3” in the back there’s about 1/4” from the tire to the frame rail.

Old wheels. 20” Lorenzo’s from 2005 if I had to guess









I also got some new tires for my Jeep. They are a little shorter and a little wider then the stock jk tires I had on it before that were all seasons and real ugly. These are falcon wildpeaks and I really liked them on my pre runner ranger I had.

 

meh... i've had two sets of wild peaks & weren't impressed. the first were the original-design compound (2012ish) on my 99 GMC and were hard as rocks with crap wet/snow traction. the second set was on my 18 dodge (current redesigned compound), and the ride+wet traction was better but snow still sucked. replaced them with yokohama X-ATs and have been much happier. Cooper AT3 XLTs on the H3 are also great with more of an AT tread/feel, too.

 

I really enjoy the wildpeaks for how quiet they are and they do well in the wet. We rarely get snow unless I’m going up to the mountain so I’m not really concerned with that too much.

got the truck running. But the injectors on cylinders 2, 4 and 6 are the only ones firing. I used a stethoscope to listen for the clicks of the injectors and 2 4 and 6 are the only ones I hear, possibly 8 but that primary on the header is cold to the touch as are all the primarys on bank 1. Bank 1 plugs are all clean and new looking still. If I put starting fluid into the intake manifold they all seem to fire. The engine was good when I drove it home a year ago in the 2005 suburban it came out of.

did a continuity check from each injector to pcm as well as verified they all have 12+ v positive when ignition is on. Tried two pcms with the same tune and tried another stock tune for a dbc 5.3l they all run the same.

i need to get a noid test light or plug a led into one of the injector connectors.


also had to shim the starter as it was barely touching the ring gear on the conversion flex plate but it made some really ugly noise lol.

its getting super close to being done. I have two other sets of injectors I can try swapping in if these are just dudes I’ll just have to change the connectors on the harness for them as they take ev14 connectors instead of the old long skinny dong connectors for 99-02 trucks

 

Figured it out. I had 5 dead injectors out of the 8 lol. Truck runs and drives now. I had to pull the bed off because I couldn’t get the locking ring and o ring to sit in right in the tank with it on and the lines were so tight if I put the pump in the tank before there was no way I could get them on with limited room. Turns out pulling the bed was super easy and I wish I would have done it that way from the start. Would have made allot of things allot easier.

definitely needs a posi. That will be the next project for this truck for sure.

 

Got 100 miles on it so far. Truck runs great. I did a quick tune on it and got wot afrs dialed in. Definitely need to lighten the weights in the governor to get it to shift later. Right now it’s like 44-4600 and it’s shifting lol.

put my 2000 s10 on the lift today. I was told when I got it the carrier bearing on it was shot causing a clunking noise in the rear end on tip in and out of throttle. The carrier bearing looked pretty good and was mostly intact but the lower heims on the 4 link have more play then I’d like and it’s definitely where the noise is coming from. I’m thinking they maybe used a bolt smaller then the heim is so there’s a bunch of slop. Also the exhaust was about 3/4 of the way to falling off down the road so I ended up using a volvo intercooler clamp because I couldn’t find a good 2.25” exhaust clamp for the slip fit. No joke those Volvo hose clamps are impressively strong.

planning on doing a new valve manifold, getting all the air ride stuff leak free. Fitting a rear sway bar and front shocks.

 

Not a lot has changed since I finished the swap. Trucks been running reliably without any issues or leaks. I finally decided to put a little love in it today so I wired up the evap solenoid I’m running to the bi mode muffler and hooked it up to a simple wot switch that was left over from a nitrous setup years ago.

also I finally pulled the governor and ground the weights down. The stock 700r4 in this truck would shift between 4400-4600 rpm it was terrible. I weighed the weights at 15g a piece. I had read that 1g usually equates to around 200 rpm difference so I took off as much as I could without really ruining the shape of the weights since they seem like they help lock in the springs and was able to get them down to 11g each even. Went out and tested it out. Full throttle shifts were 5400 to about 5600 rpm which feels perfect for this stock 5.3l.

I just did a cam in my 2000 Silverado and wow it really woke it the **** up. I might have to put the cam I originally purchased for this truck in it at some point but I’d really like to swap in a good 4l60e full size trans into it before that.

also I’ve been having one small issue with the coolant temp gauge. I’m almost positive it’s the sending unit itself but my temp gauge will peg full hot then drop down, logging on hptuners the coolant temp stays consistent where it should be regardless of the gauge. I’m running a 98 camaro 3 wire sending unit but it was a cheaper one from the parts store and I’ve double checked the wiring. I originally thought it was that wire shorting out somewhere but I noticed when I wiggle or push the plug into the sending unit it will change the clusters temp it seems. I put di-electric grease on the female pins but it seemed to do the same crap.

 

just checking if you got the temperature gauge working. I used an aftermarket gauge as well as the gauge on the engine for the computer in my 1982. LS engines almost always need a cam in my opinion.

 

Temp gauge works fine just reads like 20 degrees high, stock gauge, 97 ls1 3 wire coolant temp sensor. It ended up being a broken sending unit that was shorting out.


truck has been great over the last two years since I swapped it. No real issues besides one radiator fan that was dead on arrival and a fuel pump relay dying because it got soaked from me pressure washing the bay.

finally decided today was the day to install the posi I have for it. I finally redid the 4.88 gears in my silverado and put in 5.13’s the 4.88’s were ran way low on fluid as well as not broken in right at all, including a 10 hour round trip up to Tacoma lol. The new gears are quiet and I was happy with the final setup. The 4.88’s measured 75 thou of backlash on removal.




going over to my buddy Tony’s house later this evening to use his press to swap carrier bearings. The new diff came with new ones but I don’t trust them. The outter race feels like it fits funny in the housing. I was amazed at how easy the rear end came apart. Nothing like my Silverado that had 4 broken teeth on the spider gears and a bent pin so I had to cut the differential in half for removal! This one was like a 15 minute job once the fluid was drained.

I also shortened up the rear sway bar links so the rear sway will be parallel to the ground when it’s sitting.

I drive this truck a lot. I think in the last two years I’ve put almost 20k on it total. Last tank averaged 19mpg. Usually get a little less then that but I also like to beat on it and so far the 700r4 has held up. Same with the stock driveshaft and rear end. We will see when it starts making a little more power if that stays true lol.
i also redid the tv cable geometry and it works way better now. Before I had to have it really loose to get it to be able to hit wot. I have some trans parts that will probably go in soon too, aftermarket governor, corvette servo and some smaller shift kit stuff. Then once everything’s somewhat dialed I’ll be doing the cam and putting a new radiator in as well as I think this one has a drip somewhere behind the fan shroud.