Why do I keep trashing the same rocker arm?
04-09-2011, 08:55 PM
#21
04-09-2011, 08:55 PM
#22
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Im running the patriot 8401s with the TR 219 224 601 604 lift on a 115lsa with stock rockers. 7796 comp cams 7.425 .080 wall PR. with the ls6 lifters, valley tray. Valve spring looks good and it runs too dang good when its actually operating correctly. I thought about the comp cams trunion upgrade but I want to find out why it is actually bucking the rocking on the same cylinder rather than just beefing them up and breaking something that cost more $$$$. I bought every rocker Stevenson Chevrolet had which was 4. I am now starting to think that I cursed myself when i bought all of them for insurance if one broke down the road again...... What I can't figure out is why it runs soo good with no valvetrain noise and then all of a sudden it bucks a rocker for no reason? Do I need to torque the rockers one by one with no load on them or is it ok to just torque them all back to 22 lbs and rotate 360 and re check torque?
04-09-2011, 08:56 PM
#23
ls1 how to and ALLDATA both said 22 ft/lbs. That's what mine are torqued to with blue loctite (I'd never use red on the rocker arm bolts). And I've never had an issue.
This whole thing seems odd, I just don't see 30 ft/lbs vs 22 ft/lbs causing any trouble. Why aren't any of the other rockers messing up? I'd pull all the pushrods and make sure they're all equal length.
This whole thing seems odd, I just don't see 30 ft/lbs vs 22 ft/lbs causing any trouble. Why aren't any of the other rockers messing up? I'd pull all the pushrods and make sure they're all equal length.
04-09-2011, 09:01 PM
#25
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MY HEART just sank and I am feeliing nauseous not bc of the redbull and vodka i just drank but of the last comment!!! I am going to get my Haynes book and check what it says to torque them to..... Torque them to Nm not ft lbs?
04-09-2011, 09:03 PM
#26
It's 22ft/lbs just messing with ya, sorry had too.
Tighten the rocker arms off the base circle @ TDC then do the opposite ones after a 360* crank rotation. I never use loc-tite, but it's recommended.
Tighten the rocker arms off the base circle @ TDC then do the opposite ones after a 360* crank rotation. I never use loc-tite, but it's recommended.
04-09-2011, 09:08 PM
#27
You know, you had me thinking i was telling the wrong info, I borrowed my tech friends tq wrench from the chevy garage and he had it all set up for me(digital). So i was second guessing myself on the ft-lbs / n-m specs.
Better to find out on the web vs on your engine !
Better to find out on the web vs on your engine !
04-09-2011, 09:09 PM
#28
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Whewwwwww geez. I was about to take a cold shower to cool down.. Im checking my PR preload in the a.m. and seeing what it is.. How do I go about checking for a bad lifter? With the heads on?
04-09-2011, 09:28 PM
#30
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I dont wanna think that the lobe on the cam is bad its only got 200 miles on the swap and it runs too well to be a bad lobe. Even the plug looks good and clean soo its not loading up or anything...Im about to just replace the rocker arm as soon as I retrieve the penmagnet out of my head and all the carnage that the rocker left. Im going to replace the rocker arm rail also. I refuse to be defeated by an ENGINE!! I make my money as a mechanic in the Marine Corps but this LS is kicking my butt!!!!