Wait, so this is an Avalance? that has the long 1 piece aluminum driveshaft? If so, that had to be your U-joints right since the factory driveshaft is rated mush higher, right? https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=401966

 

Yup...guessing the same...and replacing with better sealed greasable joints. U can never be sure IMO whether the joint or the yoke went first, but the assumption is thats the weak spot. Wasn't moving that fast, nor near full torq (only at 450torq) just yet...but it has been thru the ringer during the build so...

 

We think it was a combination of 20* of overlap on the old cam, plus the fact the rings were washed. 13lbs of boost on that didn't help either. We now have the same results on only 6lbs. IATs were no higher than 94* after 3 pulls on this set up...thats helped by the Alky 100% meth too! This cam has 0 overlap and the motor pulls way better up top, whereas the old set up rolled over @ 5000rpm. R/

 

I was thinking about this, has anyone else read/thought that greasable Ujoints would be weaker than the non greasable because they have a hole drilled into them. I put greasable on mine as well but am wondering if it woudn't be better to go with non greasables next time.

 

Greasable are weaker. We specify Spicer solid U-joint's in all our driveshafts.

You'll never see a real race driveshaft with grease fittings.

 

Yeppers. They have life on their gear sets because softer is better for power. If your truck isn't for the street and only the track, it's actually a great idea if you are throwing 600+ at them. At the very least a good diff plate/cover.

 

Well turns out the rr end is shot too! Maybe that was the reason the works went boom...So now I need to decide on what to do with the rr? Get a new/refurbished OEM, or go aftermarket? Any recommendations that won't cost me $2k wud be much appreciated!

 

What is toast in the rear end and is it totally stock?

 

IF you have a factory locker... G80s are known to Suck.. I would advice a Detroit True Trac Nice HD unit Nothing to wear out.. Nothing to brake... I would think you could buy everything and have it installed in the 1000-1100.00 range..

 

What were your before cam specs vs. now?

Edit- I think I found your old cam specs 214/218 .559/.562 @ 114lc however do you mean 114lc or LSA? Whats in it now? I cant see the old cam causing the IAT's to be so high. Also at 6lb your IAT would be considerably less then at 13lb. Just brainstorming here....