Truck has 150,000miles on it

Will any ls2 timing chain work on a 2000 LM7 5.3L
Will any double roller fit or is a new cover required

I have to drop the oil pan to disconnect the pick up tube, can I just bolt the oil pan back up, or does it need a new gasket

 

I just used a stock LS2 chain. Nothin fancy, it works, fits under stock cover. Not sure on that dbl. roller Q.
If it's possible to remove pickup tube w/o removin pan, u are a better man than I am. I coluldn't do w/o removin.

Also, a few other tips. Drain oil. Here's why. If u drop that lil pickup tube bolt, u'll be hatin life if u gotta fish it outta 6 QTs. of oil. Which, unless u are incredibly lucky w/. a magnet, it's gonna get drained then.

Be watchful of o-ring. There are 3 different colors used over the yrs. on LS motors, IIRC. Don't tear it, or u'll need a new one. Which, even if u don't tear it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get a new 1.

Altho u could probably get by w/ old 1, they're cheap insurance.

On pan gskt., I just drained oil, loosened all the bolts, but didn't fully remove them. Just enuff to get my fingers to hold that lil pump bolt. Others may not do this, but it worked for me, & no leaks. Then tq. all the bolts down. Be careful, they don't need much, or u'll crack em off in block. I mean inch pounds!

 

No need for double roller. It will fit with modifcation, but an LS2 Chain will be perfect. We keep them in stock HERE!

Go ahead and replace the pan gasket and oil pump o-ring while you're in there. O-Ring will either be blue or orange, and could have been either in that year. Only way to tell for sure is to pull the pan. Shoot me a PM and I'll get ya a shipped price on everything!

 

Actually, SDPC is where I got mine from anyway.

 

Do I need to unbolt the whole oil pan or just the front 3/4s of it to gain enough access to the pick up tube bolt

Pick up tube bolt head size mm?

should I go ahead and replace the oil pump since it is already off and 150,000miles

Do the crank gear and cam gear need to be replaced as well?

sorry for all the question, I'm just wanting to get all my information down so I don't run into any obstacles when doing my swap

 

Most get by with just unbolting it 3/4 of the way, unless the oil pan gasket is leaking.

I believe the oil pickup bolt is an 8mm.

Gears are always recommended if doing the chain and at that mileage. The crank gear is pressed onto the crankshaft so you'll need a puller/installer tool.

I'd also throw in a new oil pump too if it has 150k miles.

You'll also need a new crank bolt as the stocker is torque to yield.

EDIT: Check the water pump too for signs of leakage.

Heres some torque specs.
Water pump= First pass 11ft lbs, second pass 22ft lbs.
Timing cover= 18ft lbs.
Cam gear bolts= 26ft lbs.
Oil pump bolts= 18ft lbs.
Oil pickup tube bolt= 106in lbs.
Oil pan bolts= 18ft lbs. Two rear long bolts= 106in lbs. Two rear bottom bellhousing bolts= 37ft lbs.
For the balancer bolt it says to torque the old bolt to 240ft lbs. Then remove old bolt and replace with new bolt and torque to 37ft lbs and then 140 degrees.

 

GM HD Oil Pump - $76.80

GM Balancer Bolt - $4.85

N-Motion (JP Performance) Timing Set - $66.80.

 

That should be plenty of room. I have even been able to get an open end wrench on there without dropping the pan at all, I just loosened the bolt and tied dental floss around the bolt so if it did drop, it wouldnt fall down in the pan.

10mm

This is not a have to, but definitely recommended and easy enough to do while your right there and have the pickup tube unbolted.

If you are going with an LS2 timing chain, no.