INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

Stroking an LC9 5.3?

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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 10:41 PM
  #21  
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Total Engine Airflow | Custom Cylinder Head Assemblies Tallmadge | Airflow Development | Custom Cylinder Head Ohio | TEA Total Engine | CNC Porting | Cylinder Heads | Cylinder Head CNC Porting | Ohio | :: Total Engine Airflow ::

Give them a call, if your looking at cheap rods scat I beams are cheap. This was quick Google search BTW, I'm sure there's more. If it were me and was stuck using the 5.3 I'd go full 383, you have to hone it anyway go bigger for a little more Total Engine Airflow | Custom Cylinder Head Assemblies Tallmadge | Airflow Development | Custom Cylinder Head Ohio | TEA Total Engine | CNC Porting | Cylinder Heads | Cylinder Head CNC Porting | Ohio | :: Total Engine Airflow ::
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 08:50 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Fair enough. But I did not notice anymore weight on my Firebird. Perhaps if I was an autocross fan I would. But even with the iron block, and Hard Blok in the bottom half of the water jackets, my car would raise the nose much quicker than it did with the Al 5.7.

Would seem to me it would be even less noticeable in a truck. But if he is trying to make it 'handle' I can see your point.
yeah true thats why drag cars are all made of .120 wall steel and none have glass and carbon bodies.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
yeah true thats why drag cars are all made of .120 wall steel and none have glass and carbon bodies.
No, no. They are all Schedule 40 tubing.....
True enough about weight reduction never being a bad idea. But I guess the OP needs to make a distinction as to the desired goal. IF he is doing weight reduction as a priority well as power for drag racing or handling I could understand the need for an aluminum block better....but he stated it is a daily driver.....

So I think that if he just wants a strong street truck I think the iron motor will not be a deal breaker, will be much cheaper to get 6.0L (COULD get an LS2 for 6.0L and aluminum) OR more cubic inches for the same $$$ as the stroked 5.3L, and have more power potential per $$$ spent.

Or he could just keep the Al 5.3 and boost it.......

Last edited by 1CAMWNDR; Jan 29, 2016 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 11:09 AM
  #24  
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If you want to stay n/a find an engine already together and save big coin. Rotating assembly with bearings and balanced is probably around 2500. Ad in machine work and assembly and its big coin. If you comfortable with assembling yourself then good but for a little extra have a sponsor do it. I saw erl does stroker short blocks with your core as I'm sure others do also. I bought my 383 with 3k mi tb to oil pan with everything in between for 5k. Made 485hp on a mustang dyno. If your looking to do what you say for a torquey dd then go 6.0 and swap the aftermarket parts in for cheap. Want more power later you can take advantage of the larger bore with really good heads. The al 5.3 be about the same cost as the cast 6.0 I would guess from junk yard.
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