Which piston/rod combo for L92 with boost?
Mar 20, 2017 | 01:30 PM
#11
Depending on high or low 11's and just how much meth you were spraying thats actually lean. It's safe on gasoline alone... but with meth you need to target a fatter lambda.
As others have said, if its 600 I keep it stock on a conservative tune no problem. If its not you should go to something else. My biggest concern would be the pistons. Even a 4032 like a Mahle would likely be fine for your goals. I wouldnt hesitate to run a basic compstar H beam rod either.
As others have said, if its 600 I keep it stock on a conservative tune no problem. If its not you should go to something else. My biggest concern would be the pistons. Even a 4032 like a Mahle would likely be fine for your goals. I wouldnt hesitate to run a basic compstar H beam rod either.
No signs on any of the valves, plugs, or other pistons that the truck was lean. Happened about a month ago. AFR was in the low 11s could be high 10s, can't remember for sure. So much to look at while making a hit on a public road. Spraying 100% m1. Idc was in the low 80s before WOT. In the teens at WOT. Maybe 11 if I remember right. The tune is definitely fat. The engine was just tight. Pretty sure that's what killed it. The common denominator I'd say on all surviving higher power sbe builds is the engines have higher miles on them and of course a good tune.
Why go thru the trouble of building an engine to run stock parts? Just buy a pull out.
Mar 20, 2017 | 01:46 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta
While this truck won't be a full time daily driver, I still need it to have DD reliability. I'm fully aware of how much power these bottom ends can withstand, but for how long? Most of the people that throw stupid boost and N2O at these stock LSs do it with the intention of pulling the engine and doing it all over again when (not if) it lets go. This is not and never will be a "race truck".
I am upgrading to flexfuel and would like to reach my goals on 93 and E85. I really don't want to rely on meth so I'm perfectly ok with dialing the boost back to stay safe.
I am upgrading to flexfuel and would like to reach my goals on 93 and E85. I really don't want to rely on meth so I'm perfectly ok with dialing the boost back to stay safe.
Mar 20, 2017 | 03:06 PM
#13
I am not going the stock route on my 6.0 build.
I figured between the time and money it would take me to potentially do a second rebuild, it would be more with it to *ME* to buy an entire forged rotating assembly.
Some will disagree but in my case I'd rather spend the extra grand now and feel more confident in what I had.
I figured between the time and money it would take me to potentially do a second rebuild, it would be more with it to *ME* to buy an entire forged rotating assembly.
Some will disagree but in my case I'd rather spend the extra grand now and feel more confident in what I had.
Mar 20, 2017 | 03:09 PM
#14
Don't want to skew this guys thread. But tunes get blamed so much on here feel I gotta say something.
No signs on any of the valves, plugs, or other pistons that the truck was lean. Happened about a month ago. AFR was in the low 11s could be high 10s, can't remember for sure. So much to look at while making a hit on a public road. Spraying 100% m1. Idc was in the low 80s before WOT. In the teens at WOT. Maybe 11 if I remember right. The tune is definitely fat. The engine was just tight. Pretty sure that's what killed it. The common denominator I'd say on all surviving higher power sbe builds is the engines have higher miles on them and of course a good tune.
Why go thru the trouble of building an engine to run stock parts? Just buy a pull out.
No signs on any of the valves, plugs, or other pistons that the truck was lean. Happened about a month ago. AFR was in the low 11s could be high 10s, can't remember for sure. So much to look at while making a hit on a public road. Spraying 100% m1. Idc was in the low 80s before WOT. In the teens at WOT. Maybe 11 if I remember right. The tune is definitely fat. The engine was just tight. Pretty sure that's what killed it. The common denominator I'd say on all surviving higher power sbe builds is the engines have higher miles on them and of course a good tune.
Why go thru the trouble of building an engine to run stock parts? Just buy a pull out.
Jun 1, 2017 | 07:26 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta
I've gone ahead and bought an LSA crank and a set of LSA rods. Got those along with the LSA flexplate for about $900 shipped. Now I'm just looking to get pistons. What's the general consensus on Diamond pistons for boost?
Jun 1, 2017 | 08:15 AM
#16
They seem to be very popular for boost, I've seen a lot of builds on YB that run diamond
