INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

piston install

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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by daryn c
get in there and check your crank. make sure that the journal is clean and no nicks... make sure your cylinder wall is free of nicks from the piston... you may want to run one of them little honing ***** through it. make sure to gap your new rings to spec.. plastigauge your rod cap on your crank with ur new bearings. if all is well. tq er down and flush your engine.


next is making sure your blower is okay.
Cylinder wall looks great, still has the hatch marks in it from factory. Crank i guess i will have to wait and see. My guess is it will be good sense i caught it early. I ran it only for about 2 miles that way. It sounded like a lifter noise. It did not sound like a rod going or anything like that. The top of the piston where it broke looks fresh. I was going to look into replacing the rod bolts, anybody have a preference? Far as the S/C goes I am putting a stage 3 impeller in it and the bearings and seals look great. It is discouraging to have this happen after 2900 miles.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:14 PM
  #22  
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katech rod bolts, if u can find them. That does suck only 2900 miles.......well as i say, if it aint broke, break it.....so u can upgrade!!!!!!!
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:03 AM
  #23  
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Got any pics of the carnage?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
Got any pics of the carnage?
Yea, I will get them uploaded here soon. Not too much to look at though. The piston break isn't very big. The impeller looks worse. I am getting the stage 3 impeller for it now.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 10:45 PM
  #25  
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I would say if you want to replace the one piston with an identical OEM one, then just leave it in. If you want to do all eight, it's better to pull it.

Mine ingested a valve. This was exactly what I saw after pulling the head. It was jammed partially through the piston.

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