IndigoBlueBeast

Going with the Comp 212/218 low lift but considering a 112 instead of the usual 114+4 off the shelf grind for a lower rpm pull for the 30mph "spirited driving competitions" and a little more lope. Not sticking the stall/built trans in yet. May go to 3.73 or 4.10 gears very soon. The standard 114 runs really well and I don't want to affect the valve events of the grind since that's what makes a cam, so anyone running a 112 and also what if any advance. Truck is a 2000 rcsb 2wd 5.3 with full bolt ons. Stock 60e and 3.42's. Any advice is appreciated!

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

112 will make more in most cases put power lower in the rpms then a 114. It has a bit to do with valves and where power is made.

IndigoBlueBeast

I know the +4 advance ground in will bring power in sooner and the larger lsa will have a little broader power band. Since these cut off at around 5800 or so would the 112 not pull as high as the 114 or still top out at the same rpm and just be a little more torquey down low?

Camin00

I have always herd a general rule of thumb is, lower LSA will give more bottom end. BUTTTT I got confused when I chose my cam from vinci I have the 116Lsa and the power band is 100rpms lower than the 114 and 112 lsa versions of my cam. my 116lsa has +4 of advance.

If you are doing 30mph races the lowend power band isn't really used since the downshift starts you out around 3000-4000rpms. I would look into the comp 216/220 on 114 lsa way more aggressive top end and still maintains the lowend tq, not quite as good as the 212/218, but still really strong low end. doesn't need a stall. would run better with a stall, but then again so would any cam including the stock haha

the 216/220 on 114lsa sounds AWESOME and I regret not going this route

with a cut out
Cammed Silverado - YouTube

in a 4.8L with muffler then cut-out rev
silverado with aerochamber muffler - YouTube

03klugss

iTrader: (1)

If you were going with a custom grind on that 212/218 instead of the off the shelf version you could do it on a 110 or 111 with 2 degrees of advance. Torque would be real nice down low but would still carry the power up higher too going with 2 degrees advance instead of 4.


Or I know a cam that has been fairly proven from SDPC who is a sponsor on here too is the HT1 - 214/218 .555/.562 111lsa.

IndigoBlueBeast

I considered the 216/220 and the HT1 also. Both are great performers it seems. How about the 216/220 on say a 112 +2? Would that keep all the bottom of the 212/218 but give a little more mid-high pull? Don't want a slug down low without a stall and I do know a converter is a HUGE improvement but also wanna run stock trans until it gives up on me.

Camin00

If its a dd and not broke, your right why fix it haha
I would call comp cam monday and talk to them about what changing the LSA and advance will do. I would personally call them 2-3 time do get different opinions from different people. Nobody wants information from the new guy at comp haha

IndigoBlueBeast

Lol yea that is definitely true! My buddy has a hook up at Comp and their only about 1.5 hrs from where I live so I may do some chatting with them and run down to pick it up.

oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

Also, think about compression and let it be your best friend. The more compression, static and dynamic, the stronger the truck will feel. Choose your advance/ICL based on the compression you are shooting for. And choose your LSA based on where you want to make peak power and how much overlap you want in your set up. Camshaft stuff is a lot easier if you look at it through the valve events. A larger LSA will open the exhaust valve earlier causing a decrease in overlap and more high RPM horsepower, but sufficing low RPM grunt.

Camin00

How many miles are on the motor?

If more than 100K maybe think about getting new lifters and trays. Most people dont worry about it, but I see it as cheap insurance.

Another idea for you... this is what I did for my cam swap. I bought stock 862 heads for $100 had the machine shop mill them .03 to bump my compression to 10:1 from the stock 9.5:1, and had them install the springs. cost me $200 for the heads and machine work, but made the swap way easier, by just swapping heads out and not having to deal with the springs change during the swap.

I didn't port my heads b/c I was building my 5.3L for tq not top end hp