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lq4 rod question

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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Default lq4 rod question

I have an 04 lq4 casting # 12551364 that I'm putting in my coupe project. What I want to know is if these are the better ls2 rods with floating pins and coated piston skirts. If they are, how much abuse/rpms can they handle such as the rod bolts are concerned. Plan on shifting at 7k, track only car.

This combo will be n/a 11to1 pump gas with ported 243's, stock valves, 238/246 .605/.614 110+2, victor jr, 850 pro systems, 1 7/8" headers.

Thanks,
Lance

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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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Yes they are the LS2 style with floating pins. If you want to spin it that high, I would recomend upgradeing the rod bolts
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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Thank you for confirming. I thought they were, just wasn't sure. I have a new set of rod bolts I ordered. They are part # 134-6006 ARP Performance Connecting Rod Bolts "Cracked Rod" What is the deal with them? Some are complaining about the rods need to be resized and others are installing them as is, not having problems. Are they just not installing them right?
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Yes they are the LS2 style with floating pins. If you want to spin it that high, I would recomend upgradeing the rod bolts
What's the identifier from these angles in the pics? I still haven't figured out if my 03 LQ9 has the floating pin rods or not...gotta get to my dad's shop and get under there with a mirror as the engine is in a cradle and not on a stand.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bluecajun5.3
Thank you for confirming. I thought they were, just wasn't sure. I have a new set of rod bolts I ordered. They are part # 134-6006 ARP Performance Connecting Rod Bolts "Cracked Rod" What is the deal with them? Some are complaining about the rods need to be resized and others are installing them as is, not having problems. Are they just not installing them right?
Crack rods are just that. There manufactured as 1 piece put in a fixture and the cap end is broken off.

As far as the sizeing goes. I have personaly taken a set measured them before and after replaceing the bolts and there was no change. the only thing we did find that was negligable was the big end tollerances. Some were on the high side of the factory tolerance while others were on the low side but still withen the factory tolerances.

If your doing it on the engine. I would recomend changing out 1 bolt at a time and follow the proper procedure for burnishing the threads. Also use the correct assembly lube from the bolt manufacture...

Make sure you keep contamination out as your reassembling everything. Cleanliness is your friend. I like to fire it up in park and get it up to opperating temp for at least 10 minutes to make sure there are no leaks. Then shut it down. Change the oil and filter again before driving it.

I can not say why others have had problems
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
What's the identifier from these angles in the pics? I still haven't figured out if my 03 LQ9 has the floating pin rods or not...gotta get to my dad's shop and get under there with a mirror as the engine is in a cradle and not on a stand.
A standard LS1 style rod with the a pressed pin is flat on 1 side and rounded on the other. The LS2 rod with the floating pin is more square looking.

If your a good boy today, I will get pictures of my own personal junk...
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Budhayes I think all of the LQ9 are floating rod. I think only the LQ4 had the pressed pin up until sometime in 04.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Crack rods are just that. There manufactured as 1 piece put in a fixture and the cap end is broken off.

As far as the sizing goes. I have personally taken a set measured them before and after replacing the bolts and there was no change. the only thing we did find that was negligible was the big end tolerances. Some were on the high side of the factory tolerance while others were on the low side but still within the factory tolerances.

If your doing it on the engine. I would recommend changing out 1 bolt at a time and follow the proper procedure for burnishing the threads. Also use the correct assembly lube from the bolt manufacture...

Make sure you keep contamination out as your reassembling everything. Cleanliness is your friend. I like to fire it up in park and get it up to operating temp for at least 10 minutes to make sure there are no leaks. Then shut it down. Change the oil and filter again before driving it.

I can not say why others have had problems

X2 Couldn't have said it better!

Where others run into trouble is on in car rob bolt swaps. The fracture split requires complete cleanliness and zero tolerance for dirt. All it takes is a small dab of engine grime getting between the fractured surfaces and the rod will be out of round. I have talked to ARP tech line and they only say it requires resizing to discourage shade tree techs with out proper knowledge of fractured rods from trying it. Follow ARP directions perfectly and do them one at a time and it will work fine...
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Crack rods are just that. There manufactured as 1 piece put in a fixture and the cap end is broken off.

As far as the sizeing goes. I have personaly taken a set measured them before and after replaceing the bolts and there was no change. the only thing we did find that was negligable was the big end tollerances. Some were on the high side of the factory tolerance while others were on the low side but still withen the factory tolerances.

If your doing it on the engine. I would recomend changing out 1 bolt at a time and follow the proper procedure for burnishing the threads. Also use the correct assembly lube from the bolt manufacture...

Make sure you keep contamination out as your reassembling everything. Cleanliness is your friend. I like to fire it up in park and get it up to opperating temp for at least 10 minutes to make sure there are no leaks. Then shut it down. Change the oil and filter again before driving it.

I can not say why others have had problems
Originally Posted by MPFD
X2 Couldn't have said it better!

Where others run into trouble is on in car rob bolt swaps. The fracture split requires complete cleanliness and zero tolerance for dirt. All it takes is a small dab of engine grime getting between the fractured surfaces and the rod will be out of round. I have talked to ARP tech line and they only say it requires resizing to discourage shade tree techs with out proper knowledge of fractured rods from trying it. Follow ARP directions perfectly and do them one at a time and it will work fine...
Thank yall for the reply and info. I feel better now
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 01 5.3
Budhayes I think all of the LQ9 are floating rod. I think only the LQ4 had the pressed pin up until sometime in 04.
That's what I had thought too, but I found out (from researching here actually), that 02 and early 03 LQ9's came with the pressed pin rods...I have an early 03 LQ9 shortblock so mine could go either way

Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
standard LS1 style rod with the a pressed pin is flat on 1 side and rounded on the other. The LS2 rod with the floating pin is more square looking.

If your a good boy today, I will get pictures of my own personal junk...
Thanks brother, but...I'm always a good boy (until I get caught )
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