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My build thread for my D1SC in the FI section is named Johnny Cash style build because it was built 1 piece at a time over a couple years. This is what happens when Murphy's Law listens to Johnny Cash I suppose. An unwilling build.
Went to install my new cam, lifters, rear galley plug, oil pump, all the "while I'm in there because I don't want to pull the engine ever again" stuff, and discovered that my truck at some point had a "piston diet mod" unwillingly performed on it. Judging from scans when I first bought the truck to the last scan from 2 months ago, the damage was already there when I bought it. It's never ran like it had a dead cylinder, consumed oil, anything to hint at a ring popping the ring land, so we don't think the D1SC is the cause. It's also the same cylinder that had a broken exhaust bolt which my brother in law thought was causing it to run lean, causing the rings to kiss and decide to say get bent to the ring land.
I can get away with replacing just 2 pistons, but figure since we're file fitting all the rings and will be pulling all the pistons I should replace them. I'm retaining VVT, so I'm assuming I need to retain valve reliefs with the baby cam going in (Comp 189-400-13 210/224).
I'd like to maintain the current compression ratio and not run a CTSV/dish piston dropping it to 9:1 or so. It appears that with the valve reliefs being offset on the OEM flat top with +3cc it yields 10.5:1 CR. Looking at some DSS pistons on Summit that are flat tops with +5cc reliefs that would put it at 10.22. Any experiences with these, or similar spec'd recommendations?
I was sitting at 10PSI with the current pulley with no real plans to pulley down for more PSI. What ring gap should I shoot for with 16 PSI? I'd like to have some built in safety for this NOT happening again even if I manage to overboost.
It blows great big hairy goats that I won't be driving the truck tomorrow as planned, nor probably to KC next weekend. Silver lining is the head and valves were ok.
Anyway, photos from tonight.
Leaky galley plug. Was leaking internally and externally. Causes low oil pressure and lifters to fail. No Oring on the side you can see.
New double oring galley plug
Sludge in pan. We think it is from the PO since I BG treated the engine immediately after purchase and run 5-7k OCI's with Mobil or Penzoil Platinum 5w30. 90% of my miles are doing 75-80mph on the interstate
They showed up on my end but probably because I'm logged into google photos. Trying to edit them to make them come through. IIRC it's [img]photoaddress[/image]
They showed up on my end but probably because I'm logged into google photos. Trying to edit them to make them come through. IIRC it's photoaddress[/image]
Correct code but even without the code a it comes up...
Google
400. That’s an error.
Your client has issued a malformed or illegal request.
Dam that sucks. At least it did not explode on you and take out everything like mine did...
Agree- I got LUCKY between the piston and lifters not cocking sideways and wiping everything out. What caused yours?
I still can't believe mine was running 'fine' like that. Would still knock down 16-17mpg on the interstate, no rough idle or miss, noise, nothing. We think it was ran lean before since the last exhaust bolt was snapped off and comparing the logs and o2 swings.
Quick update. Pulled the shortblock apart while in the bed of my truck today. It goes off to the machine shop next Monday. Ordering cam bearings now. They're ok, but "while we're in there"......leaning towards Mahle SH-2199S. It was 1 of the 2 that showed up on rock auto as a replacement bearing. Also, the cam I pulled out had some funny numbers on it. GoogleFU couldn't find anything.
New pistons, pins, and rings:
Funky cam number and cam plate bolts backing out.. We think somebody was in the block before. Original selling dealership owned the truck the majority of it's life, and appeared to be the only owner prior to me buying it. The 12 and 6 oclock cam plate bolts were partially backed out. Cam plate was leaking oil internally.
Forgot to get a bare block shot.
We did all the work in the bed of my truck- they had a WRX STi that's getting a new motor they built installed tomorrow on 1 lift, another WRX was boost leak and fuel pressure tested to get ready for dyno appt 200 miles away, a Dodge getting a new cummins since it was eating rod bearings/knocking, and a couple other cars in various states of build in addition to the usual 'repair' work. I helped put the bed back on a truck they lengthened and added dually axles to, making it a Dodge quad cab long bed. It's stupid long. Bed went on like it was factory- right down to the 5th wheel hole in the bed. He needs a bigger shop. I'm very fortunate to have family with this kind of access. I don't care if I'm a shop bitch when I'm around, I'm just glad to help out and not tackle this in my driveway/garage. I learn something new everytime, too- added bonus even if it's not LSx related. I always tell my wife I'm a strong back and weak mind haha.
Agree- I got LUCKY between the piston and lifters not cocking sideways and wiping everything out. What caused yours?
I still can't believe mine was running 'fine' like that. Would still knock down 16-17mpg on the interstate, no rough idle or miss, noise, nothing. We think it was ran lean before since the last exhaust bolt was snapped off and comparing the logs and o2 swings.
Questionable fuel quality and an angry right foot. Haha...
Questionable fuel quality and an angry right foot. Haha...
HAHA yeah. Only run Phillips, BP, or Shell 91 octane or E85- best I can get in my parts. I know nothing of what my right foot does. I'm a southpaw LOL.