Depending on what all your doing...

Pushrods - stock 706/862s will use 7.400" pushrods with the net-lash rockers. 243/799 heads will need to be decked .030" to retain c/r and will likely need 7.350" pushrods. LS7 lifters are slightly longer so will have slightly more preload if you use the pushrods above. Your head gasket will also need to be the right thickness to accomplish your desired c/r.

Gaskets/ Seals - head gasket, timing cover, crank seal, valve covers, I also like to replace the valve cover grommets, **appropriate color oil pick-up oring (this one is critical).

Valve Springs - for a mild cam I'd suggest the LS6 springs or PAC 1218s. PAC 1518s are nitrided for a little more strength, but in that range I'd consider dual springs with titanium retainers.

Bolts - Head bolts, crank

Sealants/ Fluids - GM DexCool compliant antifreeze, "high mileage" oil (because it usually contains more zinc additives) for first fill and assembly lube, copper RTV (applied to the bottom corners of timing cover), anti-seize (exhaust manifold bolts and spark plugs), blue loctite

- break in lube is not needed for hydraulic lifters

-Valve locks are not absolutely needed, but they're cheap and you'll be mad when you drop one.

I also highly recommend a new timing set and oil pump depending on the mileage.

 

I'm not changing the heads at all, just pulling them off.to do the Lifter swap, but figured it was easier to say head and cam swap in the title. Im getting the cam kit from TSP which includes pushrods, valve springs, and a cam, plus their head and cam swap gaskets kit, and LS7 Lifter set. Just wanted to know what else I'd need to have handy for the swap so I can get it done right without having to call my local napa store owner at 3am and have him open his store to sell me parts again. If I have extra gaskets and stuff I don't use I guess I can just hold onto them. Just wanna be fully prepared.

 

well if your swapping lifters might as well swap out the lifter trays while your at it... I believe i used LS2 trays when i did my swap...

 

Depending on your mileage, your stock lifters are probably ok. That would save a lot of hassle of pulling the heads/intake off... my engine had 130k miles on it when i swapped cams and used the stock lifters with no issues

 

I am with these guys... I don't think pulling the heads is necessary, but if you do then you'll need new lifter trays. With LS2 lifter trays, some people suggest drilling holes for better oil control.



The other thing you'll need is lots of brake cleaner to clean everything up before reinstall. I used 3 cans or so doing my cam swap, but I also dropped the oil pan and cleaned all that out too.

 

Balancer install tool..

 

Valve spring compressor tool, torque wrench, torque angle gauge. Torque specs from your choice of shop manual. Few extra locks, extra valve seal or two.

Where you at in MN? I'll be around for the weekend wouldn't mind tearing into a motor. I could even help ya out with some of the tools, except spring compressor cause USPS lost mine.

 

My cam and lifters ate eachother. It is a must to swap the lifters.

 

Why swap the lifter trays? Are they a heavy wear part? Or is it just cheap insurance against something else?

Also, what like do you recommend? I put full synthetic in it and that seemed to be when the problems started.

 

A couple things really... first they're dirt cheap. They also keep the lifters from twisting and keep them true on the cam. The trays also hold the lifters up when you do a swap without pulling the heads. Drilling the holes is supposed to improve oil control, but I haven't seen any real world difference.

Also, full synthetic is rarely a cause for problems, but it doesn't hide issues dino oil may. I like running mobil 1 high mileage with a 10w 30 in my truck.