i got a 1996 rcsb with the 5.7 and i need help all the way around the truck! what kind of cam should i get? i want something with a pretty aggressive lope. and what else do i need to make it run right (caps, retainers, springs, pushrods, rockers) if needed. what long tube headers should i get? its a 5 spd. so i want a good clutch so help with that please, every thing in the rear end is stock so what kind of gears and what posi should i buy? ignition help would be great to! also if you could list the prices with the products that would be great! and any other mods i missed that would help me out. im 16 and im tryin to make a street/track queen. alot of kids at school got quick trucks so there is some competition. remember im 16 so not a whole lot of money in my pocket. any help would be great. and what is the offset on the obs trucks lookin for some pro stars or bogart wheels.

 

come on guys help me out!

 

search previous threads

 

anyone want to help a kid out?

 

The gears (stock) are like 3.42 (I think) so a 3.73 will definitely be an improvement (do get a programmer, or a tune after all this). You say you want things to work properly but often a cam with an "agressive lope" doesn't work well in a low RPM engine (500-5500rpm). Your cam in the Vortec is a roller and since you have mass air and not speed density you should be able to drop one right in. I will look for one for you. I like "quiet cams" for the sleeper effect. Get out there with a big lope and bad *** sounding truck then get your *** busted...not cool. Do get a free flowing intake (K&N) but use the oil sparingly as too much has a tendency to coat the MAF sensor. New exhaust, 2.5" all the way (off road) and O2 simulators are the ticket. You might be able to use a Z71 locker in the rear, you can pick these up for about $200 at a salvage yard, or buy an Auburn for $450. I would start looking for an older vaccum 700R4 tranny to rebuild and steering column w/ shifter, to convert your truck to an automatic, search salvage yards. I have not seen many gm 5 speeds (in trucks) hold up to much abuse, and I rebuild these. I had a 1998 Vortec 5.7L Z71 ECSB.

 

are you wanting a sonic drive-inn queen where everyone turns and stares when you "lope" through, or do you want to spank these "quick trucks'" azzes? will be a little difference in your setup depending on which way you want to go. you don't have to have a radical lope to be quick, just the proper component selection.

first you'll need to tune your ECM. i mean real tuning. if you want real gains without sacrificing your engine, then forget about the hand-held tuners. find a reputable tuner and get a wideband dyno tune.

if you want performance and longevity, then it will cost $$$. your truck is a 96 so it should have the vortec heads which are good factory pieces, but are lift limited to about .470. in order to get any amount of lift you will have to reduce the OD of the spring locating boss and cut down the valve guide boss. you can do this yourself with a tool from comp or crane, or since you probably need a valve job anyway just send them in to a machine shop and have the heads gone through, cut the guides and spring locating boss', and have the shop also set the spring height and install your new valve springs you will need. the flow numbers for these stock vortec heads is pretty easy to find on the web. find the numbers and have them in hand when selecting your cam. no need to buy a .700 lift cam if your heads peak at .500. you have a 5 speed which gives you more options with cam choice with respect to duration, idle, and driveability. Sport Side is up on the cam info way more than I am and would be the one to ask a question about cams.

anyway hope this helps you get started.

 

you know all about those " sonic trucks " dont you frank

 

Go check out the Comp Cams LS1 Beehive single and dual springs, theyt are drop in replacements for the Vortec L31 heads and are make the L31 heads good for .550" of lift even with a .030" saftey margin.

Days of machining teh L31 Vortecs for clearnce are over, finally, to make them good for .600 add some +0.050 valvelocks.

LT4 Hotcam with 218/228 is a nice cam, no one in North America has the ability to make an L31 rev over 5800 rpm becuase the PCM shuts the injectors off at that point. The power oeak will be right at 5800 rpm withteh Hotcam, teh stock LT4 Vette cam might be a better choice.The stock rev limit is 5600 rpm, any PCM tuner can set it to 5800 rpm but no higher. Get TM removed 100%, the torque from a dig is much improved with it removed.

Get a decent TC, I am using a L35 V6 S10 TC and am getting 2500 rpm of stall behind my L31. I can just imagine what a real TC can do for ya. PI and yank make good ones, I heargood things about Fuddle.

Hooker makes the 2806 long tube, these force you to run custom heapipes, the factory 1 7/8 Vortec headpipes are restrictive as tehy are crimped pretty bad fom the factory. I went with dual 2.5 headpipes right off the Hookers into dual 2.5" cats.

You cant get over 330 rwhp or about 397 hp on the stock Vortec L31 19 lb/hr injectors. The most power I have seen is a 383 with cleaned up Vortec heads, GM Hotcam and 1.6:RR's. This guy runs 14.0"s at 96 in a 2wd e-can truck. Any more power you will need 1 of these marine intaek manifold, which will alllow the use of whatever injector size you want. The stock PCM will only handle the high impedance style NOT peak and hold types. http://www.sfatek.com/images/efi.jpg
or a Ramjet intake manifold.

the marin eintakes are avaialble used for $750 US and are a must for any serious L31 power project, esp when super/turbo/dry nitrousing.

peace
Hog

 

alright guys that sounds awesome if anymore things pop up in yalls head just let me know i really appreciate it

 

any thing ive missed and yall want to help me out with?