GM Hot Cam - Install
#11
sweet, thanks for putting those up Matt. I've got the idle set perfect now so maybe I'll get a video of it on my way home in a little bit. Finally got done redoing everything on this computer at steph's house.
#13
Had my first mishap earlier lol. I was going about 45 and I realized that I was about to miss my turn so I was braking really fast and the motor ended up dying during the turn which really shocked me. I threw it in neutral real quick and started the motor, gave it a rev and drove away. Earlier I had lowered the idle just a bit to see how I liked it, but it would dip quite a bit. Anyways, I didn't run over anyone so all is good haha.
Also, earlier I did my first WOT multi-gear run and damn it feels good to have a change in power. The cam does pull pretty hard up between 3700-6000 which I like. Down low it does better than I expected, but midrange is a LOT better than before. I'm going by GForce tomorrow to schedule a day with Mike to dyno the truck, preferably after I finish the VE tuning though.
Here's some pics of the install.
Front acces. removed and radiator/fans removed

This is the way the installer at the Best Buy - Almeda store tapped into the coil harness. They have to do this for the remote start system, but they don't have to afro-rig the connection and just half *** tape it up

Here's a pic of the valvetrain. The stock springs in my LM7 actually had a yellow stripe on them (well all but 1 that had green) so at first Matt and I thought maybe they put LS6 springs in the motor from factory. Well they're actually stock L92 springs which are good to .520 lift. Kinda sucks cuz the Hot Cam lift is .525/.525. It's nice upgrading to better/new springs anyways.

This little booger likes to fly out when you remove it. It's the clip that retains the tranny cooling lines into the radiator

Matt was surprised when he saw that the plate had torx head fasteners rather than the usual hex head.

Matt cleaning up the new cam

We ended up using the "russian roulette method" since the lifters stayed in the holders so good. Matt tested this by leaving the pushrods in and rotating the cam several times. After doing this if you look at the pushrods and they aren't moving anywhere you should be fine. Anyways, this is the new cam in the block

That's all the pics I have. I'll get a good idle clip tomorrow perhaps since tonight was so damn windy it messed with the mic on my camera. Dyno results/video soon
btw, If anyone's looking at installing a cam and they'd rather have someone install/help them Matt's a perfect alternative to cranking at it yourself. When I started this project I felt confident that I could do the work myself just fine, but paying/having Matt to show me everything made it an enjoyable and knowledgable experience that didn't rattle my brain too much with anxiety lol.
Just PM Matt for rates and all that stuff if you're interested
Now, how much do yall think the cam helped? I'm guessing 20-40 at the wheels, but I'd like to guess on the higher side of that range when I'm done tuning.
Also, I'm gonna need bigger injectors if I do any more mods because I logged some 100%+ IDC's earlier
Also, earlier I did my first WOT multi-gear run and damn it feels good to have a change in power. The cam does pull pretty hard up between 3700-6000 which I like. Down low it does better than I expected, but midrange is a LOT better than before. I'm going by GForce tomorrow to schedule a day with Mike to dyno the truck, preferably after I finish the VE tuning though.
Here's some pics of the install.
Front acces. removed and radiator/fans removed
This is the way the installer at the Best Buy - Almeda store tapped into the coil harness. They have to do this for the remote start system, but they don't have to afro-rig the connection and just half *** tape it up
Here's a pic of the valvetrain. The stock springs in my LM7 actually had a yellow stripe on them (well all but 1 that had green) so at first Matt and I thought maybe they put LS6 springs in the motor from factory. Well they're actually stock L92 springs which are good to .520 lift. Kinda sucks cuz the Hot Cam lift is .525/.525. It's nice upgrading to better/new springs anyways.
This little booger likes to fly out when you remove it. It's the clip that retains the tranny cooling lines into the radiator
Matt was surprised when he saw that the plate had torx head fasteners rather than the usual hex head.
Matt cleaning up the new cam
We ended up using the "russian roulette method" since the lifters stayed in the holders so good. Matt tested this by leaving the pushrods in and rotating the cam several times. After doing this if you look at the pushrods and they aren't moving anywhere you should be fine. Anyways, this is the new cam in the block
That's all the pics I have. I'll get a good idle clip tomorrow perhaps since tonight was so damn windy it messed with the mic on my camera. Dyno results/video soon

btw, If anyone's looking at installing a cam and they'd rather have someone install/help them Matt's a perfect alternative to cranking at it yourself. When I started this project I felt confident that I could do the work myself just fine, but paying/having Matt to show me everything made it an enjoyable and knowledgable experience that didn't rattle my brain too much with anxiety lol.
Just PM Matt for rates and all that stuff if you're interested
Now, how much do yall think the cam helped? I'm guessing 20-40 at the wheels, but I'd like to guess on the higher side of that range when I'm done tuning.
Also, I'm gonna need bigger injectors if I do any more mods because I logged some 100%+ IDC's earlier
Last edited by jakebdb56; Jan 14, 2008 at 12:30 AM.
#15
I've got the tuning part covered ap
. VE is pretty much done and the MAF tuning is getting close. Just from tuning the VE it's noticably more powerful too btw. I have it running just a little rich currently to play on the safe side with tuning the spark. I went by and scheduled the dyno for Monday the 21st over at Gforce.
. VE is pretty much done and the MAF tuning is getting close. Just from tuning the VE it's noticably more powerful too btw. I have it running just a little rich currently to play on the safe side with tuning the spark. I went by and scheduled the dyno for Monday the 21st over at Gforce.
#19
I get a LOT better mileage now that maf and VE have been tuned, probably a 2-3mpg difference. The cam was making me get some pretty bad mileage at first since it was running very rich down low. Anyways, everything is looking good and thanks to 02sierraz71's guide all the tuning went fairly quick. Having the cats and muffler make a big difference in power that I can really feel now with the cam. I'm gonna see about doing a muffler/no muffler dyno on monday to see how much the super 40 is restricting the flow.
Also, I can feel mr.4L60E slipping
Also, I can feel mr.4L60E slipping
Last edited by jakebdb56; Feb 17, 2008 at 04:00 PM.
#20




