Just throwing around the idea of adding some higher quality parts to the short block while she's apart.

What would be the min. machine work needed on a low miliage motor?

I'm thinking:
Block:
Cylinder cross-hatch for stock 4" bore pistons?
Align honed w/ARP main studs
Crank Journals Polished
and the one elective procedure - keyed crank snout

Min. Parts I'll need:
Crank & Rod Bearings
Forged Flat Top Pistons (Wiseco, JE, Diamond)
Connecting Rods (Scat, Eagle)
Hell Fire or Zero Gap piston rings
ARP main studs
and
Plasti-Gauge

thoughts?

any ideas what this would cost me?

 

About $2700 for a Eagle rotating assy,about $500 in block prep and your labor.I bet you can borrow any special tools you need.

 

I would get the rotating assy. cryo'ed. I think it's worth it and not to expensive. NON SPONSOR LINK REMOVEDDEEP FREEZE CRYOGENICS, LLC 1.866.324.CRYO

 

with that total I might as well just buy a sponsor'd shortblock

I'm actually trying to keep this a very budgeted affair, any thoughts on that action or anything regarding the question?

 

you have a block?

 

To get the pistons and rods would be about 1500 from mthe speed shop I deal with no idea on the bearings. WHy would you need new bearings with such a low mile motor unless you are building another block on the stand. Machine work in my area for hone and polish would be about 250 at most. Why line hone? It most likely wont be needed. Get the block checked out first. If oyu are using a used block dont forget vatting the block which run another 50ish. My ARP main studs were 150ish, plastigauge it cheap but a bore dial and calipers is more accurate anyway for figuring oil ltolerances. Rings are about 150. I would go with the hellfires from what I have read the gapless cause some problems with crankcase pressure and oil consumption.

 

Here is my thread on rings from tech
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rings

 

yes

 

it's been a few years since I've assembled an engine but I imagine many of the principles 12yrs ago are the same today.

align hone would be done as a result of the ARP studs, you say this is not needed?

 

Align honing is not necessary, just overkill in my opinion. What I would do, pistons, rod bolts, digle berry hone to knock the glaze off, & balance. reasemble without polishing the crank or new bearings unless they look like they need it, probably not. just make sure the bearings go back in the same locations. Maybe if you get frisky find a set of pull-out lq9/ls2 rods. Just my .02.

FYI my 6.0 has used stock rod and main brgs out of 2 different engines. I checked the tolerances with a dial bore guage and mics of course. Polished the crank.