INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

A Different Kind of Build

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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 12:13 AM
  #21  
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Haven't researched the E85 compatible fuel pumps. I have a return system and I'm pretty sure the Walbro 255lph drop in pump & bucket I have now is not E85 compatible.

I have full coverage on my 2000 GMC always have since 2003 when I bought the truck. Probably need to get classic car insurance as the book on mine is only around $5000. If something happens (like most old trucks here) it would be an easy total loss. Buy it back from the insurance company and fix it myself or take the hotrod parts off and start all over with a different truck.

About 8 years ago a deer slammed into the drivers front fender and took everything out along the sides. Windshield, mirror, door skin, cab behind the door and bedside. The damage was over 5 grand and I was luck they didn't total me out then... even got a rental... a new Dodge Dakota

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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RedXray
Haven't researched the E85 compatible fuel pumps. I have a return system and I'm pretty sure the Walbro 255lph drop in pump & bucket I have now is not E85 compatible.

I have full coverage on my 2000 GMC always have since 2003 when I bought the truck. Probably need to get classic car insurance as the book on mine is only around $5000. If something happens (like most old trucks here) it would be an easy total loss. Buy it back from the insurance company and fix it myself or take the hotrod parts off and start all over with a different truck.

About 8 years ago a deer slammed into the drivers front fender and took everything out along the sides. Windshield, mirror, door skin, cab behind the door and bedside. The damage was over 5 grand and I was luck they didn't total me out then... even got a rental... a new Dodge Dakota



Yeah its hard to calculate whether its worth it or not, but being the truck I have is already really beat up and the paint is in bad shape, I'm not sure if its worth it, but then again if I think about it i'm paying half of what I would be if I had full coverage vs liability. Then again having a salvaged title i'm not 100% that they would give me full coverage.

Another thing that worries me is having to pull all your mods back off the truck if something happens, yes I know its just work but its not easy just to take them back off especially when you don't have lifts and the right tools to do it. But like you said I guess you would just end up having to buy it back for salvage value from the insurance company if something major happens.
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 06:42 PM
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Who else there has tried porting their own heads? Given that stock heads are so cheap why don't I just get some 706s from the junkyard and try to port them myself? I was even thinking of trying to build my own flowbench with a vaccum cleaner? I would think the tools you need would be pretty minimal. I guess I would still have to find a machine shop to mill and surface the heads though?
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 10:25 AM
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You def need a machine shop for head surfacing and perhaps valve grinding.

get a 3 or 5 angle valve job, it will really help. Look into putting 2.0" valves in the 706 as well, easy to do

flow bench with vacuum is cake. Use an HVAC flow meter to measure flow. You need to make a fixture to hold everything the same for each port tho. Consistency in data

try to find a pipe/can/object that's close to the diameter of your bore, and try to replicate the length and volume of the intake volute you're planning to run. Don't just measure peak free flow number and try to maximize that

also the bowl of the port is where most gains are made. Don't spend too much time in one spot, small bites. Shoot for 5% delta between ports, max. Closer the better. Track the numbers in excel so you can easily do the math. Label ports based on cyl #. Base line all ports with your setup before getting started

leave the floor of the port alone except maybe a sanding drum pass to give it a finish consistent with the rest of the port after porting
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by arthursc2
You def need a machine shop for head surfacing and perhaps valve grinding.

get a 3 or 5 angle valve job, it will really help. Look into putting 2.0" valves in the 706 as well, easy to do

flow bench with vacuum is cake. Use an HVAC flow meter to measure flow. You need to make a fixture to hold everything the same for each port tho. Consistency in data

try to find a pipe/can/object that's close to the diameter of your bore, and try to replicate the length and volume of the intake volute you're planning to run. Don't just measure peak free flow number and try to maximize that

also the bowl of the port is where most gains are made. Don't spend too much time in one spot, small bites. Shoot for 5% delta between ports, max. Closer the better. Track the numbers in excel so you can easily do the math. Label ports based on cyl #. Base line all ports with your setup before getting started

leave the floor of the port alone except maybe a sanding drum pass to give it a finish consistent with the rest of the port after porting
Thanks a lot for the info I appreciate it. I need to get my garage in order first, but I really want to have a setup to do this.

For swapping to a 2in valve, can I do that myself? I'm not even sure what tools you would have to use to enlarge the port?

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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 09:46 PM
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I'd ask a shop to grind/machine/ream/*insert favorite material removal method here* the seat to accept the 2.0 valve

I wouldn't do it at home, but there are tools you can buy to cut a seat with a drill. I think they are junk and you should just ask a shop to help with that
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by arthursc2
I'd ask a shop to grind/machine/ream/*insert favorite material removal method here* the seat to accept the 2.0 valve

I wouldn't do it at home, but there are tools you can buy to cut a seat with a drill. I think they are junk and you should just ask a shop to help with that
Thanks, do you know of any cheaper shops that do "mail order" services for cheaper than TSP? Seems like these shops are getting way to much money for these head services, I mean $1000 seems a lot to me, but understandable when you have to buy these huge CNC mills I guess, but even now these things should be getting cheaper? I am in the upstate South Carolina area about 2 hours northeast of Atlanta.
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Old Jul 27, 2020 | 09:55 PM
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mechanical engineering degree does not equal liability insurance and worrying about $1000 dollars
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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 1redta
mechanical engineering degree does not equal liability insurance and worrying about $1000 dollars
Yeah I agree with you, having a ME degree doesn't mean much, I consider it more like a rite of passage thing. I am amazed at some of the people I saw get through the program who didn't seem like they deserved it. Some ME undergrads don't even know what a tapped hole is after graduating, a lot of that is the schools fault and the cutting of the curriculum hours to save state money also. However, it was probably the hardest thing I've ever had to do, but I also put more effort than I needed to into it to try to have a decently high GPA. It's really frustrating when I can't even figure out how to use my knowledge and degree to solve some of the simplest problems we face (which intake is better, which cam should I chose, how much power does this rob, etc).

As far as the insurance I was just trying to figure out say what everyone else does if say they have 10k worth of aftermarket stuff on their car/truck and then it gets totaled or someone hits them, do they just loose their money?, buy it back and take off the mods?, or I think I have heard you can add certain aftermarket stuff to the policy?
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 10:18 PM
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So I was trying to put in my 12613412 GMT-900 6.0 Flex Fuel injectors and the cheap Chinese ebay adapters I bought are clearly wrong and not going to fit (the adapters have flat pins and my LQ9 has pin holes:


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