Building a boost motor..what goes in?
#11
Lots of guys out there blowing up high dollar "boost" motors also lots of guys running mostly stock 4.8/5.3 motors on 15+ lbs of boost. I would say get a 04+ 5.3 gap the rings toss in some rod bolts a good boost cam such as the TU1 and some 243/799 heads. Then go to town with as much boost as you can throw at it. Mitch I believe was hitting over 20lbs on that type of motor. DBrods is running something like this now. Quik same story. 02camaross is about 15-18 lbs I believe. These motors are a dime a dozen and can be found for $3-600 a lot easier to spend that 2 or 3 times rather than the $4-5000 you will spend building a short block just one time. Several of those mentioned have gone low 11s and even 10s.
Last edited by gamble686; Feb 13, 2013 at 11:57 PM.
#12
i was also looking at some texas speed rotating assemblies. when i did my 6.0 swap i started to throw some arp rod bolts in but i didnt want to fool with the bottom end. and i too have seen people running high boost with just gapping the piston rings. i just wish i could remember what that gapping was...SCAT has always had good reviews and ive looked at them for him too. he said he wants his crank and to match his rods...me personally when i boost mine im keeping stock crank and upgrading my rods and pistons. i read the stock crank is good for almost 1k
#13
Contacted beau@sdpc and he recommended diamond pistons, scat h beams, and the Manley or Callie dragonslayer crank. On another note, my buddy is hell bent on getting 241 heads Milled and ported and polished and said he wants the combustion chamber for boost. I told him 243 but like said, he wants 241. Someone explain to me if that's a good or bad decision and why please
#14
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
Unless you plan on making over 1000 hp the stock crank is plenty... 241 heads are not what you want. Depending on the cc dish of the pistons, the 317 or 243-799 head is what you want. 317 and 243, 799 are the same other then the 243,799 having smaller chamber. Your buddy needs to do a little more research, LOL
#15
That being said could I work my 317s on my lq4 and gain a decent amount of power like I can with the 243s? I plan on getting 243/799 myself. He's going to upgrade the crank regardless I know but as I said ill be keeping mine when I boost. He's thinking that bc the 241s are so cheap he can mill them down enough to where they're equal to or better than the 243s with his boost for alot money less
#16
The 243's flow better than the 241's. Milling the 241's will not make them flow equal or better than the 243's. He would have to have them ported in order to accomplish that. As a factory casting the 243/799/317 heads are just a better platform to start with.
#17
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
The valves/ports in a 241` is smaller then that of the 317 or 243 head. Which is not what you want esp in a boost app.. Again 317 and 243 are identical other then chamber size. and if he is looking to go crazy on power, wants to add a aftermarket crank then he shouldn't even be looking into a stock head. Stock crank will take you there..
#19
Your goin to spend alot of money on a 241 to make it equal with a 243 head. I've done been down this road and not worth the money. You can take a 317 head and mill it .030 and have a 243 head.
#20
So I mill my stock heads .030 and p&p and ill have the equivalent of a modified 243? Or should I mill the 243s and p&p. I'm going to talk to him. Anyone have some 243s laying around ud like to sell?



