break in recommendations
01-26-2013, 11:24 AM
#1
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break in recommendations
so today is the big day. i built a forged stroked 383 from a 5.3L. what do you recommend for a break in? i have straight 30w oil in it for the moment. but what rpm and how long to run it. thanks guys.
01-26-2013, 11:57 AM
#2
Why are you using straight 30w? I would recommend some 5w30 to allow it to oil up easier on startup, which is the most critical time.
Spirited city driving actually works the best, you need to cover the whole range of rpms and loads within the first 30 minutes of run time.
Spirited city driving actually works the best, you need to cover the whole range of rpms and loads within the first 30 minutes of run time.
01-26-2013, 12:26 PM
#5
Every one is going to recommend something different.
I would not use a straight weight oil like that.
I would at least use the recommended 5W-30W.
I personally start with firing up the motor and warming it up to full operating temp before a drive. IMO you don't want to get stuck any were and half to get it towed back even if it's just around the corner.
Bring it to an Idle first so that the computer can get the basic readings and also so you can check for basic leaks. Check the trans level right away. If your low excessively low like not registering on the dipstick, you can burn the seal up on the pump and cause other damage. Bring it up to 2,000 RPM and manual go up and down in the RPM range. Snap the throttle and Throw a couple 1/2 throttle rev's in there.
When you get up to Operating temp and confirm everything is functioning properly and not going to over heat. Shut it down and check all your fluids.
Personally, I like to change the oil and filter after the firsts start up to get out any possible contamination from the initial start up. You will know right away if you have an engine health issue.
As far as driving around goes, like Atomic mentioned. Spirited driving, No WOT passes though. Some recommend weight in the back to simulate a load. Keep an Eye on things to make sure your not running lean or to rich as both could cause damage.
I would not use a straight weight oil like that.
I would at least use the recommended 5W-30W.
I personally start with firing up the motor and warming it up to full operating temp before a drive. IMO you don't want to get stuck any were and half to get it towed back even if it's just around the corner.
Bring it to an Idle first so that the computer can get the basic readings and also so you can check for basic leaks. Check the trans level right away. If your low excessively low like not registering on the dipstick, you can burn the seal up on the pump and cause other damage. Bring it up to 2,000 RPM and manual go up and down in the RPM range. Snap the throttle and Throw a couple 1/2 throttle rev's in there.
When you get up to Operating temp and confirm everything is functioning properly and not going to over heat. Shut it down and check all your fluids.
Personally, I like to change the oil and filter after the firsts start up to get out any possible contamination from the initial start up. You will know right away if you have an engine health issue.
As far as driving around goes, like Atomic mentioned. Spirited driving, No WOT passes though. Some recommend weight in the back to simulate a load. Keep an Eye on things to make sure your not running lean or to rich as both could cause damage.
01-26-2013, 01:00 PM
#6
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Listen to atomic and 1fastbrick they know there stuff. Put some 5-30 in it turn it over with no plugs in it so the lifter a prime gooood.stick plugs in an fire her up let warm up check for leaks let idle bout 30mins after warmed up and change. oil again an go for a test drive change oil again and when you hit 1000 mile mark change the oil again.you can never been to careful!
01-26-2013, 07:04 PM
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well i went to start it and its pissing fuel AGAIN around the injectors. so nothing will be happening for another 2 weeks. im flat broke and cant afford to buy another set of square rails. oh well. thanks for the info. ill change the oil when i get paid. i have break in oil from red line in it and assembly lube every where.