I'm in need of some help with my 2012 5.3 build. I'm looking to make the most horsepower I can with the top end for now. Im looking to put heads on, cam swap and an intake. I have messaged tsp for help twice and got different answers. The only thing that was consistent was they told me not to change out the intake manifold.
Now with this in mind in the future Im wanting to turbo the truck and hopefully by then ill have the space to pull the eng for a proper set up.
I'm looking to make this a street/strip truck, will not be a daily.

Don't bite my head off with the search button, just spent a couple of hrs reading threads and only one had something similar to what I want.

Info on the truck 2012 reg cab chevy, stock 5.3, 6l80e and stock rear end. For now Im running stock rims an tires but will be upgrading the wheels to 20's from weld.

 

I agree with them, the truck intake has always made great power. Doesn't matter if it was a cam/heads setup or a turbo truck, they always make power.

What is your current budget?

What do you want this truck to drive like?

Do you want the stock stall converter or a higher stall? You need to pick the camshaft based on this.

You can put the biggest stupidest camshaft in there but it won't drive worth a **** down low but make great power up top. I would assume you don't want that. So the question kinda is, what you want from this.

 

Im not to worried about budget I have a couple of grand set aside but not enough for a turbo. plus Ill be getting my tax return or should I say my truck stimulus money in to help.
what i want it to drive like? well I have been around sports cars my whole life and some what sporty trucks( s10 xtreme and a toyota xrunner) . The truck is lowered and Im wanting more of a strip truck that you drive on the street , if that makes sense.
Im aware with a big cam ill have to change the stall but I would like to have power through out the rpm range but unsure of that. like I said some what streetable.

 

You’re moving 5,000lbs. Get a converter then the cam. Or do em both at the same time. With your intentions, you can squeeze upwards of 230* on that 5.3 but I wouldn’t really expect to do a lot of towing. For what it’s worth, swap an older set of heads on there. You’ll get more out of the compression of the 862 heads than you will with the flow of the 799s on there now. What gear do you have? Start saving for a different differential if you plan on killing tires after this....

 

OP, for a cam it comes down to what your end goals are and what you're willing to compromise. There's always a compromise, it's just what are you willing to give up.

We will give you a couple of options.

1st option would be on the smaller side. More minded around driveability and wide powerband with the end goal of boost. That would be our stage 1 high lift truck cam SUM-8719. Specs on this are .550/.550, 209/217, 112+1. This gives us -10 for overlap which is great for driveability and boost.

We like to think about cams in terms of individual valve events. One area to look at is the intake valve closing (IVC). We like the IVC to be under 40* in trucks. This cam closes the intake valve at 36* after bottom dead center (ABDC). This will help provide good off-idle torque while having very good mid-range and top-end power. It will require a spring upgrade. Budget-friendly LS6 NAL-12499224 will help keep the valvetrain stable and allow this cam to pull strongly past 6500 rpm. For changing the springs out, you're going to need a valve spring compressor tool. You can use TFS-90306 with the heads on. You can use this cam with the stock converter. A 2500+ rpm converter would be a benefit but not at all required. This can be tuned for a smooth idle or noticeable idle depending on idle speed.

2nd option would be on the bigger rowdier side. It's going to be for max power N/A sacrificing driveability and low-end torque. It could be used with mild boost but not the best option for boost. This would be our stage 4 truck cam SUM-8714. Specs on this are .545/.545, 226/230, 112+4. This gives us 4* of overlap which isn't wild but it's going to have some character. This has a IVC of 41 ABDC and moves the powerband up sacrificing low-end torque for more top-end peak power. It will require a spring upgrade and the budget-friendly LS6 springs will also work well with this cam. It will make strong power to 6800 rpm. A 2800+ rpm stall converter is required with this cam. This will have a lopey/choppy idle.

These are 3 bolt cams that won't work with AFM/DOD or VVT. This is typical for aftermarket cams. Your truck would be a single bolt and could have AFM, VVT, or both. We have delete kits to help with either of these.

For AFM, If this has PCV then you would need CMB-09-0031. If it doesn't have PCV then you would need CMB-09-0030. These kits come with MLS head gaskets, valley plate, non-DOD lifters and guides, head bolts, water pump gaskets, and a harmonic balancer bolt.

For VVT, you would need CMB-09-0027. This will include a non-VVT timing cover, 3 bolt 4 pole cam gear, ARP cam gear bolts, and a harmonic balancer bolt. You would double up on the harmonic balancer bolt if you purchased both kits. You can pick and choose parts out of the kit by viewing the "Kit/Contents Tab" within the overview of the kits.

 

Great advice, however,

OP won’t take it. He wants a donkey dick cam in a 5.3 no matter what we suggest.

Max power? Wrong focus in a 5k pound truck. You want a smaller cam, nothing over a 224 duration, converter, gears. You want torque to get it moving.

With a 230 duration cam, it won’t even be worth driving because you’d have to have the rpm’s above 4k before it would even start pulling good.

Larger duration cams bleed off cylinder pressure due to the late valve events. This is what makes them lazy lower in the rpm range.

You want a choppy cam? You can do that with smaller duration cams and a smaller LSA. This will build the needed cylinder pressure to get it moving.

Basically, someone with a Isky Triple 12 and a converter, gears, etc, will gap you hard on a similar build.

 

well that’s why I’m here. I probably should of worded my question better. I would like to make the most horsepower I can out of the top end. I know that would take changing the heads, cam and intake manifold.
There’s no need for a “ Donkey Dick“ if I’m not going anywhere with it. I’m still new to this and looking for advice.

 

Summit's cam will do what you want, well.

Another tried & true choice is the 212/218° 112° ballpark. Not too different really from the Summit one. You can get either a low-lift version (cheeeep valve springs) or high-lift (.600", requires a bit more attention to detail in that area) from any # of vendors; TSP to begin with. Pretty sure Vinci has one too. Probably BTR. It's very popular.

You also need a converter, long-tube headers, and maybe gears. If you put tires on it that are very much bigger (outer dia) than stock you WILL need axles either before you take it to the strip or very shortly thereafter, those are the weak point in the truck 8½" rear, esp with more gear and more traction.

 

My cam motion truck cam works great! Made 300hp 312tq at the wheels thru 6 speed, 4x4, 4.11 gears. See signature if it shows up