00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

well I've been thinking alot about my future plans for my truck. I DEFINITELY want it N/A and a stroker. I have been leaning pretty hard on a 383 because it just seems like it'll feel right for my RCSB. It'll definitely have a big cam and Im hoping for maybe 400 RWHP? anyone got a combination I could look in to or maybe a suggestion on cubes?

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

I'd like to someday see how a CompCams 224/230, .581/.588 114 LSA cam works in a 383. You'd be looking at an 1800-6300 range of power in a 383 cubic inch motor. It would idle rather well given a good tune and pull like a bat outta hell from the time you step on the gas all the way to red line. I'd bolt on a set of ported and polished 317's that have been milled down for 9.8-10.2 compression. The worked-over 317's will give you throttle response like none other and pull just as hard to red line as the stock 243's many gawk about but your low end torque will be significantly better thanks to the smaller intake and exhaust runners.

With the above setup I'd expect about 415hp and 430-440lb-ft of torque. You'll have a very fat and wide torque curve of about 300lb-ft available from 1500 to 6000 rpms. Your new-found problem will be traction. Invest in a good limited slip and wide tires...you'll need them. Considering you named this thread with gas prices in mind, 10:1 compression or thereabouts still allows for cheap 87 octane, and given a light foot and a good tune you'll still probably see 18-19 highway mpg. Not bad for the power.

Here's the camshaft by the way. Forget that it says 2000-7000 rpm range. Remember this is going into a 383, not a 346 LS1. Cubic inches eat lift and a big cam in a small motor is the same gentle cam in a big motor.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

**** man, thats even more info than the member Lance gave me. Thats alot of food for thought and stuff to do homework on. Everyone seems to be doing 408s and 6.0s so I'd like to be different and get that sick *** old skool sound outta my truck. Thinking about maybe taking the route of just pulling my block apart and having them bore my block? Just buy some internals and heads and big bad *** cam. What about keeping my stock heads too and having them worked to 317 specs? Mine are 289s (if I remember correctly)

RandomHero

iTrader: (24)

Nothing personal, but most of that makes no sense. Unless you can get some really good deals on parts you're better off running a lq4/lq9/ls1 pull out. If you want to go more than that you could bore your 4.8 and stroke it to a 382. As far as having your heads machined. Working them to 317 specs would be pointless. While they flow well the valves are much too big for a n/a 4.8L. Not to mention you'll lose quite a bit of compression.

For the best bang for your buck, I'd run a lq4 pullout, cam it, and run full bolt ons. You can easily score a lq4 6.0 for $1000.

If you want more than that then the cheapest route would probably be to have your 4.8 bored and stroked to a 382 but it wouldn't neccessarily be any faster.

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

if I bore and stroke my block and get different heads and everything how do u figure it wont be faster? Whats the difference between it and an already bored 383 block?

Inchup made sense to me and I dont want a 6.0 cuz thats what everyone does. I didnt get where I am doing what everyone does.

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

Unless something doesn't make sense to me at all, I try my best to help the question at hand rather than force my opinions on someone. Granted I have blatantly given my opinions to people who I know well on here but that's because I know them and they want my opinion.

00Silv4.8, sorry but the 4.8L/5.3L heads are trash. You'll have wicked low end torque and a good mid range but say goodbye to any hopes of high rpm power. The heads are bolted onto 4.8L's and 5.3L's for a reason. I just put 2 sets of 5.3L heads on Craigslist for $60 bucks a pair and they went like hotcakes. I should have put them up for $100, so know that you can sell your heads rather easily for guys looking to cheaply crank up the compression on their LS1 F-bodies. The 317 heads I mentioned really are your best bet because they will outflow 243 LS6 heads down low and after a port and polish will match 243's all the way to red line. The combustion chambers on the 317's are huge, so you have a lot of material to work with to get your desired compression ratio after a little milling of the heads. Again, shoot for anywhere in the range of 9.8-10.2 to 1. If it were my motor, I'd set everything up for 10:1 compression and then just bolt on whatever head gasket gets you your ideal quench. That'll sit you a hair above 10.1:1 or so...well within the parameters of 87 cheap gas.

And I have a question for you, 00Silv4.8, what do you mean by a "big bad *** cam"?

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

Thanks InchUp for giving me suggestions on what Im looking for. I appreciate that.
And by big bad *** cam I mean dam near bracket car sounding. I still need it to have driveability but as big as I can get keeping real good low-high or mid-high power and a real nice lope.

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

I still hold firm on the camshaft I suggested. It'll accomplish what you're looking for plus some.

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

awesome man, thanks. Now just to figure out how much money I gotta drop, where I can take my block and how long it'll have to be down. I appreciate everything man

1BadAction

iTrader: (10)

maybe you should start giving opinions when you know what the hell you are talking about.