I've seen a couple of your hurt engines in person...also know who your tuner is, question is Wtf? Something ain't right fo sho

 

Any engine will cause some serious carnage if the tune is not right or get's out of wack. Still not positive why mine went lean but I am pretty sure had this happened to any boosted motor the results would have been pretty much the same.

I still have plenty of faith in the 6.2 and we will just be way cautious this time around to make sure it enters PE every single time we want it to.

I don't remember who said it but he pretty much summed it up. These motors have not changed much at all over the years but the brains that control them have.

 

IDK man IDK good thing they are backing me up

 

true so true

 

I personally like an iron block. So my vote would be the 6.0L. Keep the stock crank and punch it out to a 370 and have fun! Would be a torque monster with a 76mm.

 

6.0 or 6.2 with good parts would be fine. But if I wanted to push it to over 900hp I would go iron block to be safer. I'm not sure what the alum block would stand.

 

If given the choice I would go with a alum block 6.0L. The iron blocks are 100+ lbs heavier and not as great as everyone thinks.

 

Whichever way you go, boost the crap out of it lol.

Stock GM LS Engine - Big Bang Theory - Hot Rod Magazine

Get 2 magnum, powermaster, borg warner, or precision 76mm's and let her rip.

 

You will be fine with a properly assembled and tuned 6.2-based engine. I don't see you having any problems as long as you follow those guidelines. Urban has had factory-based aluminum block builds well over 1000 hp for years (the heaviest hitters {1600hp+} with some 6-bolt and sleeving enhancements from ERL). As long as the build is well done, the internals are well-chosen, and the tune is spot-on, you will not be block-limited.

 

better solution, get the cheaper 4.8, 5.3 block and punch it to 383. You get your desired iron block and the displacement for the low end torque!