Ok guys, I just bought a 6.0 and took it to the machine shop to get it bored .030 over. While I was there the guy called to price a stroker crank for me out of curiosity, well turns out he can get me a Callies 4.25 stroke for ~$600. I am wondering if this would be possible in the 6.0 block and what problems would I run into. I was looking at a 4.25" stroke, 6.0" callies rod, and probably some custom pistons with a higher wrist pin height. I don't remember the actual measurements on the wrist pin height, but we did figure it to be possible as long as the crank wouldn't hit the pistons. Any of you guys tried this?? What are your thoughts and recommendations. The motor will be a daily driven, large cube, L92 heads and intake, and backed by a T-56.

 

The only shop I know of that has pulled that off is SAM. I wouldn't recomend that long of a stroke for a daily driver anyway unless you like adding oil. Oil consumption will likely be an issue.

 

your piston height is gonna be just over an 1" = potential oil ring problems. that long a crank with that rod is gonna put the piston skirt too close to the crank counterweights. could shorten the skirts and counterweights but already gonna have a problem balancing the rotating assembly. sounds like a lot of expensive trouble for a dd. for your combo just stick with the 4" crank and be happy.

 

Thanks for the input guys! I didn't really think about the possible oil ring problem. It was just a thought because of the low price on the crank, I figured I could offset the build a bit. I am more than likely going with a 4.0", or maybe a 4.1".

 

A 4.25 stroke equals about 433-434 C.I.

That would be alot of engine if you can feed it. A four inch bore may not allow great breathing. Just theoretical thoughts here.

 

I say DO IT for a few reasons... 1. its not my money, 2. be a pioneer, do the research. If you have to go with custom pistons, have them customized to the point that the skirts are clearanced for the crank counterweights. I don't know any of the ramifications behind this, but why can't you have the ring grooves cut lower on the piston, or is it possible to use a shorter, 5.7" rod? make that $hit work!!

 

There aren't very many builders who can do more than a 4" stroke and say it will be reliable. I know of 1. I have no idea if it actually IS reliable or not, just that the builder says it will be...

Stick to the 4" stroke and be worry free. Let's face it, you're not going lose much HP between a 418 and a 408...

 

Well I stated my reason for even thinking about using that crank, I am looking for a torque monster, with under the curve power. A daily driver that I can use and play with. I don't think there will be alot of difference between the 4" and the 4.25". If I could use that crank, I could have less than $2000 in a $3500 rotating assembly. If I go with a 4" stroke of the same caliber, then I will have around $3000 in it. Thanks for your input guys. I am measuring 10 times and researching like crazy. The builder is a very reputable guy here, so maybe I will get it accomplished and I will let you guys know how it turns out.

 

Who are you using??? Phil Cook????

 

Yeah you know him??