Go me for making up Batman'schevy4.8L mind haha

With the 6.0 your headers will bolt right up. I don't think the L92 header pattern is different, but something to look into.

I did read you had a 4L65e with some upgrades, so this should support 400hp with a good tune.

The 6.0 blocks fit exactly the same as the 4.8/5.3L with motor mounts and all wiring. Keep the truck intake for more tq. I would take more low end/midrange tq over top end hp gains any day in my dd.

Some things to research..... 1. reluctor wheel if its 24X or 58X matters. Have to find the one that matches your transmission. 2. I don't think you will need a 6.0 ecu, the tuner can just right over your stock ecu file. 3. might have to get larger injectors and fuel system. < If you have to do this, go ahead and spend the money on products that will support a future turbo build, so you don't have to buy injectors twice. Your stock system would probably be enough for N/A

 

Build the motor on a stand then just do the swap over a weekend. Go to the autoparts store or order online Haynes repair manual. They compleatly disasemble a truck and put it back together describing the steps, tq specs, bolt patterns.

Go a head and order $70 procomp head studs. This is the main reason for building the motor on a stand after the machine shop bores and assembles the short block. I did a head cam swap on my 5.3L with head studs. A NIGHT MARE getting the back two in. Had to beat the fire wall in a cm and jack the transmission up to get the f*****s in there.

You will save sooooooooooooooooo much money doing everything yourself except for the machine work and tune. One shop wanted $750 and another wanted $850 in labor for my head cam swap. I said screw that and learned for about a year thanks to google and pt.net how to do the whole process. 25K later the truck has never driven so well and got such awesome fuel economy.

 

500hp sound like a fun drive to work and school everyday and to the track on sundays.

how do i find out what reluctor wheel i have?
im thinking about getting efi live and letting blackbear do their magic with. Staying n/a with the 370 but going with the fi 408 with my old school project truck. do the internals need to be forged if staying n/a?

LOL good advice thanks was going to do the stand anyways cause the 4.8 isn't coming out till i get the 370 completed. i have a chilton manual not that great to me might look into a haynes i work at advanced auto so i can get it at work. I can assemble everything myself with my dad, my machine shop wants 95 to bore a v8 and he hadn't got back with me on assembling a short block so i think all i'm missing is the actual 6.0 o get started.

 

No you dont have to forge n/a internals. But since your buying a 6.0 short block and having it bored .03 you have to buy new pistons any ways so it would be the time to go ahead and spend the extra money on forged. But stock pistons and rods will hold up 5-600whp on boost with a good tune.

Forged is more insurance than a necessity for your build.

On the reluctor wheel, I believe any 6.0 after 99-00 will work. I dont know the exact details. I would search the form for previous post or post a new thread in drive line section to ask.

 

I think for a dd you want to keep compression 10.5 and under. you could go a max to 11.1 but remeber the more and more compression you run the less advance in the timing the tuner will be able to apply.

Lower compression and more timing makes more power than high compression with no timing.

stock 9.5 on 87 octane was able to get around 18-20* of advance

I bumped my compression up to 10.1 on my 5.3L and ran 87 octane at first with 14* of advance. When I switch to 93 octane I was able to get 24* of timing which made about 15-20 more hp at the wheels.

 

Yea i was thinking that new pistons have to be bought anyways might as well go forged for a 100-$200 price difference and not have to worry about anything breaking if i so choose to throw a turbo on it. ill look more in to that reluctor wheel if i get a 56 and need a 24 can they be swapped out? I got to find a 6.0 im losing my mind trying to find one thats close to me and not over priced cause i cant get a legit shipping quote on one thats out of driving range.

what CR would work well with a 93 octane tune and how do i get that compression out the stock 6.0 heads if i decided to use them, more than like though im going to buy new heads, but ill cross that bridge when i get there gotta find a motor first.

 

You had other issues if you are serious. 14 degrees of timing on a 10.1:1 compression engine is not healthy. You can run well over 11:1 compression N/A with pump gas and be perfectly safe. You just need to plan your build out and spec everything to work with each other. "Less compression with more advance will make more power" is total nonsense.

You take your 9.5:1 compression motor and throw a lot of timing at it, and I'll take my 11:1+ comp motor, run normal timing, and lets line up.

 

I think the 14* was due to really cheap tomb-thumb 87 octane 10% ethanol gas. I switch over to shell and Mobil premium for the 24* of timing. The knock sensors started acting up around 28*

Do you know how much timing you are running at 11:1 compression on premium fuel?

I ment less compression with more advance in a dramatic point of view. Example a 10.5-11:1 motor will probably run better than a 12-13:1 motor on the same fuel. But yes you are correct for your interpretation of the post, I just ment it on a more dramatic scale to keep him aware not to make the motor 13-14:1 lol I guess my post made more sense talking about running 87 octane only with different compression levels.

 

Meh...feed it some compression...I ran a 11:1 408 with a tvs1900 at 8lbs on pump 93 with 20 degrees of timing, not a single problem and had more torque than you know what to do with.

 

Has anyone used or heard of the precision race components head and cam kits from texas speed? 1999-11 Truck Head/Cam Packages check them out a give me some thoughts.