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1000 HP/Torque. What will it take.

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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 12:04 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by JimS
Why should I NOT use nitrous?

Is it hard to tune for?

Where with a superhcarger does it get introduced into the mix? Out by the air filter? Just before the tb?

How dangerous to the engine is it?

Is it turned off and on with a switch ... always at command?

As you can tell.. I've never had any experience whatsoever with nitrous and I need tutoring.
1.) Can break ****. Kinda like crack, very easily addicting. Have to refill bottles.

2.) Depends how big of a shot you run. Guys run up to 150 shots on near stock hardware, not that I would recommend that, but it has been done.

3.) Usually at the tb or before, but you can get fancy and have rails made that sit under the blower. I know Trick makes such a kit.

4.) Not really a fair question, but you can easily break **** if it isnt set up right on too big of a shot....same could be said about a turbo too

5.) You can do it that way, but I wouldnt recommend it. Most guys use "window" switches, which basically only lets the nitrous hit in a certain "window" of engine speed and above a certain throttle amount, say at 99% throttle between 3000 and 6000rpm.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 04:08 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
1.) Can break ****. Kinda like crack, very easily addicting. Have to refill bottles.

2.) Depends how big of a shot you run. Guys run up to 150 shots on near stock hardware, not that I would recommend that, but it has been done.

3.) Usually at the tb or before, but you can get fancy and have rails made that sit under the blower. I know Trick makes such a kit.

4.) Not really a fair question, but you can easily break **** if it isnt set up right on too big of a shot....same could be said about a turbo too

5.) You can do it that way, but I wouldnt recommend it. Most guys use "window" switches, which basically only lets the nitrous hit in a certain "window" of engine speed and above a certain throttle amount, say at 99% throttle between 3000 and 6000rpm.
Ok.

You're backing up the impression I had... i.e. that it's used after you get off the line.. maybe comes on about at the 60 ft mark, at full throttle and after the wheels are rolling and have become less likely to just sit there and spin from too much torque. On the street a guy could be maybe in second gear, apply full throttle and get the extra 150hp or whatever it's set up for. That's kind of what I had thought. Seems like it's not unlike the big boys and the way they set up their clutch systems so full power isn't applied until the traction situation will likely permit.

I know I'll want to get a better gear... back to the 3.73 might be good. Still fry the rubber but get better traveling conditions... i.e. less noise and more mpg. With the straight out the side 4" exhaust I'm running it is dammed noisy! Don't know if I can stand to give up all the low end power I get with the 4.56... might have to just go to 4.10... and/or get a wider and sticker tire... or both. I guess we'll have to wait and see but since a bigger motor is in the offing and consequently I don't have to excessively worry about hurting the engine, at this point I'd say that I'm likely to get a 100 shot or more just for the pure FUN of it.. and it sure sounds like fun! :d Ought to take 40 years off my age whenever I hit the button

I don't drive crazy so the nitrous would be used with caution and is likely to sit in the bottle most of the time. Does it tend to leak out with time spent in the bottle? Hmm. to answer my own question I guess that wouldn't happen if I just screwed the bottle shut except when I venture out into the night.. so to speak. What's a ball park estimate of the cost to refill?

Do most guys with my set up plumb for a dry shot.. I hope.. since the dry shot seems a lot cheaper/easier... albeit somewhat less effective.. but is the dry shot more difficult to tune accurately and consequently more dangerous to the engine? I'm just guessing here... it seems like the danger with a dry shot would be running too lean?

Thanks man. I appreciate the time and effort you're spending in helping me get up to date. It's hard coming from the "ice age" into the 2000's... remembering my first car was a 48 Chevy coupe with a GMC inline 6 cyl, bored out .030 and with 3 one-barrel carbs. Then I had a 55 Pontiac with tri power and then a white 56 Chevy that was a 265 ci engine that I bored .030 over and had dual-quads with Vette heads and cam, a 4 speed into 4.56 gears. It got into the 13's, which was pretty fast in those days. But.. then marraige, kids, etc. and no hot rodding until 1993 when I started a 1973 El Camino build with a 600 hp big block.... but had to drop the project.... long story, and now this truck. It's a pretty big jump and so much new to learn, with the nitrous and computer tuneing.. etc, and it's very much like starting all over again, where everybody knew more than me. It's embarrasing and frustrating as there's SO dammed much new technology in the last 15 years or so.

Last edited by JimS; Jan 11, 2011 at 05:10 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #93  
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It shouldnt leak at all when the valve is closed. Typically it costs $3 per pound to fill, so a 10lb bottle is around $30.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #94  
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As regards the TVS 2300 and the Procharger D1, is one better than the other or mostly a matter of opinion or???

I know the TVS is not adjustable except by changing the pulley, is the same true of the D1?

Cosmetics plays a role in makeing the decision and I'm drawn to the TVS but have gotten the impression that the D1 makes more boost for considerably fewer bucks. True???

I"m thinking I could do a 370, or a 390, or a 402 and I think either supercharger would work well on any of those choices. True?

I'm thinking what I'd do is get nitrous and have fun this spring/summer while reaearching and saving $$$$ for a real build to be done in the fall. I don't want to use plastic and I don't want to sell off my investment pool cues to finance the build and I think by this time next year I'll have saved more than enough to build a forged engine with D1 or a TVS 2300... and maybe the TVS 3100 will be a reality by then?
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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I just ordered a Strange 4.10 gear set from Summit! The changes have begun.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
You can swap in a 14 bolt out of a VortechMax, VHO, or later SilvySS...it's basically a direct swap. They have drum brakes I believe, but you can swap your disc stuff over, may have to modify or replace the backing plates. If you go to the GM Drivetrain and Suspension section and search "14 bolt" or "14 bolt swap", you should find a write up or two that guys have put together.
You are correct, but these particular 14 bolt 9.5" rears have axle shafts that have a substantial "step" on them, going from a larger diameter to a smaller diameter.

I noticed this in 1 of Atomics 14 bolt swap posts. I dont know if the actual 3/4 ton axle shafts are the or not.

Irregardless of the axle shafts, the9.5" 14 bolts are stronger. But I like the10.5" better with its pinion support and full floating axles. With thesemi floating 8.5/8.6" and 9.5" if you braek an axle, the tire/wheel/axle is going to exit the axlle housing.
The 10.5" FF is heavy though, but the extra weight is in the right place for traction.

peace
Hog

Last edited by hog; Jan 19, 2011 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #97  
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I was out walking the pooch (the actual cannine pooch) this morning and thinking, as I usually am, about the build and a Procharger F1, F1a or something close, on a 390 and it again occurred to me that I ought to do a LQ4 based 427 with the big Procharger or a turbo.

I still like that. It satisfies the big cube guy from the 50's that still makes up part of my psyche and it uses the new technology of turbo's or Procharger blowers. It doesn't do much for the "show" that I love in the Maggies but they apparently don't have the boost numbers necessary to do big hp... but, come to think of it, I haven't yet taken Grippy's suggestion of talking to Left Coast. I'd prefer the show of the Gimmy clone on top if I can reach my goal. Maybe with a 390/408, fairly high compression and a TVS 2300???

I gotta call Left Coast.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #98  
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if you want a big shiney blower that will make 1000 rwhp look into the big 4.x kenne belle . they have a kit for the camaro that can work on the trucks.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 11:07 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by 2004SSS
if you want a big shiney blower that will make 1000 rwhp look into the big 4.x kenne belle . they have a kit for the camaro that can work on the trucks.
I thought about a Kenne Belle this morning but with the abscense of discussion about them on this forum I sort of dismissed or forgot about it. A big shiney blower on top is something that I want... it's a 50's thing.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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just because there is no support for them doesent mean they have something that can make good hp. if i were in the market for a blower for big hp id go with a kb .
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