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That I'm aware of you only changed the sizing of the one mount. The ear that went over by the frame, and the width of the center section to go around the lump on the frame.
Started my drivers side body mount today. I g
ot it completely unbolted. The rear upper Bolt on the block was a bastered. With the transfer case right in the way it was hard to get to. Then because the transfer case is right in the way I was going to take the exhaust manifold off to get clearance to get it out. But for some reason the three bolt from the manifold to the top of the stock y pipe are completely seized on there.
But I have my header sitting in the house so I’m just going to cut the stock Y pipe and drop the exhaust manifold and Y pipe right out of the bottom of the truck. Then I can pull the body mount.
Yeah the bolts are a bitch to get to no matter how you do them. You may be able to pull the mount out through the fender well. But if you have headers might as well go ahead and get all this done at the same time.
As for the exhaust manifold to Y pipe bolts (the stock ones) All 6 of my manifold to Y pipe bolts were f'ed. They all stripped out and became a massive night mare. I thought I was gonna prep the bolts at the shop and do the headers at home. I put the truck on the lift to spray lube on the bolts and break them loose and I was gonna run the nuts up and down the bolts to make sure I didn't have to fight them at the house and I ended up having to wedge screw drivers and all kinds of **** behind the nuts to pry down on them while using an impact on them at the same time to get them off (on the manifold flanges nuts that bolt it to the Y pipe) because the threads were all stripping out and the nuts were getting stuck on the bolts.
All that being said. It'll be a lot easier to just grab a sawzall and cut the y pipe and pull it out all together.
Don't want to jinx you, but I had zero issues with the bolts that bolt the manifolds to the heads. Those all came right out.
I don't know if these gen 5 engines have trouble with those bolts but those bolts in previous gen trucks were known to break off. So I put stage 8 stainless header bolts in when I put the headers on. You can always bolt up what you have and order bolts and swap them out later by doing one at a time or whatever.
Also, a little tip for hanging the headers and gaskets. I took 2 old bolts (you can use a couple of bolts you go buy from the store or your old manifold bolts for this) and I cut the heads off the bolts and used a die grinder to cut a slot in the end of the bolt. I cut a slot in the bolt to be able to stick a flat head screw driver in them.. take those two and when you have your manifolds off screw one into each end of the head, just lightly by hand, and then hang your gasket and header on them and it'll hold your header in place while you thread in all your bolts. Then pull those two and put your bolts in. It's always a bitch trying to hold the gasket and header and thread bolts in all at the same time.
If you want to buy new bolts or buy a couple to do the stud/hanger trick deal.. the bolts are 8x1.25 threaded. You need 20-30 mm length.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 04-10-2020 at 04:39 PM.
Got the bolts that connected to the top of the Y pipe off today. Let them soak over night with PB blaster and the breaker bar got them off. I was prepared to saw-zaw the Y pipe off today and should have so I didn’t have to remove the trans cross support. But oh well.
I saw you posted on GM-trucks I think it was one time. About somebody that was complaining and paying 300-400 bucks to have a body mount replaced. You said “after messing with it for hours you’ll think the 400 bucks was a good deal.”
You are 100% right. That would be money well spend.
I probably qualify for an honorary "Motor Mount" PhD from GM at this point. I drove on this one until the motor flopped around like a fish out of water.
Got the bolts that connected to the top of the Y pipe off today. Let them soak over night with PB blaster and the breaker bar got them off. I was prepared to saw-zaw the Y pipe off today and should have so I didn’t have to remove the trans cross support. But oh well.
I saw you posted on GM-trucks I think it was one time. About somebody that was complaining and paying 300-400 bucks to have a body mount replaced. You said “after messing with it for hours you’ll think the 400 bucks was a good deal.”
You are 100% right. That would be money well spend.
LOL I remember saying that to someone over there.
(Engine mount, not body)
Originally Posted by pmoore4321
I probably qualify for an honorary "Motor Mount" PhD from GM at this point. I drove on this one until the motor flopped around like a fish out of water.
I cannot count how many sets of mounts i've done from that generation truck. Thats a 07-13 mount. And they're massive piles of ****. Just did a set again on a customers truck that they only lasted 2 years. He's like 80 and doesn't tow or anything. It's surprising how crappy those mounts are. IMO Atomics mounts are the only way to go on those trucks.
I've done so many of that gen truck mount that the last set I did I was able to do both mounts in an hour and a half with taking breaks to film and go to the bathroom in between lol
04-08-2020, 10:31 PM
