Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I see everyone always asking about "How to install 8.2 IFS gears" - well today i did it in my 2010 GMC 1500.

Very Simple!

Removing the case is self explainable

- Remove the cross member brace.
- Remove bolts to axles and move the axles out of the way.
- Remove driveshaft bolts and remember what threaded hole they go into.
- Unclamp the electronic connector with the 3 clips that hole the wires to the case.
- Pull off the vacuum line located on drivers side.
- 4 Bolts hold the case in place, remove those 4 bolts, have a buddy hold the drivers side while you remove the drivers side bolts, then do the passangers side. The case is about 60-80 pounds so BE CAREFUL!

Good Job, it's out!!!

Case splitting

- Loosen the oil plug then put case on 5-gallon pale and remove the plug. The oil takes a while to drain so i just connected an air hose to the vacuum input and the oil drained much faster (this works great).
- Place case on drivers side flange, then remove the bolts that are housing the Diff. NOT the bolts on the passangers side shaft.
- While tapping with a malet pull case apart.

I bet you see the Diff. right now and are telling yourself "I will now just pull the diff out, easy" WRONG.

Pulling the diff.
- Place on a hard surface diff bearing side on that surface.
- Play around with the stub axle till you think it's centered with the case.
- Hit the stub axle in the center with a dead blow hammer a few times, nice hits
- Put case on its side so that the stub axle and diff are parellel with the ground.
- Hit the stub axle with the dead blow outward on each ear of the axle, this will take around 15 hits (can only access the ears in one location so need to turn stub axle every turn)

I bet the axle is out... And the diff will remove with no problem.

Since you are on the front diff i am guessing you have already done the rear gear swap so from here on out it should be basically the same.
The reinstall should be basic enough also.
When mating the case half togather be sure to spin the yoke input because if it do not spin "nicely" or at all you put too many shimms between the pinion and bearing.
One MAJOR thing is that the crush seal in the IFS is easly crushed unlike the rear.

I found all torque specs by searching Google.
Break in should be around 3000 miles because how often are you in 4x4? Do as you please. Oil is cheaper than metal...

Any questions ask away! Sorry did not take photos. It took me about 3 hours to do on a lift, air tools, press, and no alcohol.

Preston129

iTrader: (3)

Great write up, thanks for doing it.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Not a problem, hope everyone can do it now.

Bigredmariner

iTrader: (6)

I'll be doing mine in a week or so, I'll get some pics and that will help some others out as well. Thanks for the write up, I haven't done one of these yet myself so it's nice to see some tips posted.

CI DENALI

This is some very useful info. I've ordered the gears for my 08 Sierra Denali AWD, and this will help a lot, so thanks. Does anyone know if the front gears on the GMT900s is reverse rotation? I noticed on the order confirmation that it says "rev-rot", or something like that, which I assume means reverse rotation?

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

i'm going up to my shop later today, i will look on my boxes - and get back to you.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

The box went to the dump early this morning, sorry. Call where you bought the gears.

CI DENALI

Thanks for checking anyways man. I have actually already sent them an email but they are closed on weekends, so I will call them on Monday. I will post what I find out.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

This help anyone?

blackjack325

iTrader: (1)

pics of this would be nice