GMT 900 Trucks General Discussion 2007 - 2013 Trucks | General Discussion

Help! Arp crank bolt problem!!!

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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #11  
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From: JunkYard
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Originally Posted by 20002wdchevy
powerbond came in a kit from sdpc correct part number for truck application. I tightened it in by hand a fair bit before using my 1/2" impact.
You NEVER should have used an Impact!!! You should have put it on with a ratchet by hand first.

If it bottoms out before it was all the way up against the balancer that would have been your first clue to STOP!!!

If you put it on with out any type of lubricant your probably done for. If you used some type of lubricant you may stand a very small chance.
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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sounds like it is seized in pretty good could try some heat with a small propane torch, ive never tried that on a balancer bolt, Is this on your daily driver truck or the one for sale
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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This is perfect example why everyone should have that crank pulley install tool
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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then he would have degreed the **** out of it while bottoming out. what's wrong with OEM crank bolts?
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #15  
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I bought my same kit from same place .. The bolt is Longer so u dont need an intall kit but there was a spacer/washer that u were supposed to have .. I took spacer off so i cud start my pulley to get seated back on then before it bottomed out i took bolt out and put that spacer/washer on .. I did put a dab of never seize on the very end threads to help prevent that in case it bottomed .. Wondering if u had that washer/spacer on your bolt?

Hope it turns out OK for you

Last edited by BIGDADDY1969; Jul 28, 2012 at 09:34 PM. Reason: Typos
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000chevysilverado
sounds like it is seized in pretty good could try some heat with a small propane torch, ive never tried that on a balancer bolt, Is this on your daily driver truck or the one for sale
^^^^
this .
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:34 PM
  #17  
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ok I got the pulley seated. I cant move the bolt a little bit (about 2 1/2 full turns) My plan it to keep working it in and out until I can get it all the way out. On my other truck (LQ4) Ive put on and uninstalled my asp udp about 6 times without issue so I was hoping for a similar install. The ARP bolt I used did come with the spacer and its on the bolt. So now I can at least drive it to work but I'll work it over this week and try to get the bolt out. If not I'll send it somewhere to get looked over. thanks for the quick responses guys.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:03 AM
  #18  
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Stock bolt FTW. I had the same thing happen to me on one of my camaros. I ended up using a 4ft cheater bar to break it loose. I chased the threads and put the longest bolt in I could with thread locker and never had an issue with it coming loose.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by pirate3
Stock bolt FTW. I had the same thing happen to me on one of my camaros. I ended up using a 4ft cheater bar to break it loose. I chased the threads and put the longest bolt in I could with thread locker and never had an issue with it coming loose.
This is what I will be replacing it with, I'm a bit annoyed though. If it had happened to others I figured I would of heard it here first but thats what I get for not comparing new vs old. glad things turned out for you. I messed with it some more this evening. I'm getting almost 5 full turns out of it. lots of pb blaster and lots of in and out, sure hope I get it without it breaking.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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What had happend on mine is I hadn't seated the UDP far enough with the factory bolt before trying to thread the ARP one in and it galled the threads at the end. You'll NEVER break that bolt(tensile strength is ridculous on em) but you'll end up just destroying the end threads. Just keep at it. It will come out eventually.
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