damn, this problem really makes me not want to drop my truck anymore....SOB i hate problems like this.

 

So what you are saying is that the front and rear yokes basically just need to be pedrectly parrallel giving them a 0* difference? And that the driveshaft should be (in simplified terms) angle upward from the rear yoke to the front one by 2*... Correct?

 

basically, check that web site out on the last post on the 1st page. it breaks it down kinda well, it kinda says 1.5* difference or who knows ya know. id feel better with 2* bc you can see 2* vs guessing a 1.5*

 

ok i just whipped this up in paint real quick....

does this look right?

 

all you need to do is kix your pinion angle.fix it and get somebody to tac the lower saddles from the bottom so it won't more anymore.i have a buddy that is an expert at dropping trucks he can answer any question you have one way you could get a hold of him is if you want to try myspace search for "drops r us" his shop is in pasadena tx you might have heard of it

 

no, the tailshaft yoke is suppose to be 0* the ujoint on the drive shaft should be +2* then at the ujoint by the rear end its going to be -2* they cancel each other out basically.

 

K find me a pic lol

 

can you just move the axle back a half inch on the spring? you may have to drill another hole in the perch but it may be the easy solution.

 

http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...tm#Information

 

ok so i think i have it here's some pics. you guys let me know if i need to tilt the rear up or down and how many degrees i need to adjust if so. oh and btw after i went back and loosened and retightend i got the slack back unbinding the driveshaft putting it back into spec... the 3rd pic shows this.


(between -5/6* from tranny tailshaft)


(between +5/6* from rear pinion)


(about 3/4" play in driveshaft unfastened)


(driveshaft angle)