Brake rotors that don't warp?
#1
Anybody had any luck finding rotors for the GMT900 SUV's that don't warp in 5-6mo? I'm on the 3rd set in my wife's Yukon and they're starting to shake already. They're not the house-brand cheapos, I've been buying Wagner thermal quiet stuff, and with the lifetime warranty they've been replaced for free but I'm tired of swapping the damn things.
I know these things must generate a ton of heat stopping a 6500+lb vehicle from Hwy speeds. Im considering Powerstop stock size slotted replacements or similar this time. Thoughts?
I know these things must generate a ton of heat stopping a 6500+lb vehicle from Hwy speeds. Im considering Powerstop stock size slotted replacements or similar this time. Thoughts?
#2
I've had the best luck so far with powerstop brakes and pads. I have them on my wife's G37 or about 6 months and my 05 silverado for over a year. Even after sitting for a few weeks and getting coated in surface rust, they knock right off an have stayed straight.
#3
think maybe its the driver? really no disrespect intended...I've been on the same rotors for 3 years and i take my truck to the road tracks and autocross every other weekend during the summer, I change the pads often but the rotors every 2 to 3 years.
Edit: are you bedding them in when you replace them?
Edit: are you bedding them in when you replace them?
#4
We've never had the issue with any other vehicle so I'm gonna say probably not the driver. We live in an extremely rural area so the vehicle sees almost zero serious stop/go driving. It's usually really easy stops from moderate speed. Nothing crazy. I've always changed the pads with matching Wagner ceramics every time except this last and it made zero difference in stopping or noise. I've bedded them and I've ran them without, makes no difference. They do great for a couple months then start to warp. The rears have done fine, it's just the fronts.
I really feel like the sketchy eBay drilled rotors would do better than this. I ran a set years ago on my old truck and they did great. Probably try fresh pads and Powerstops this time.
I really feel like the sketchy eBay drilled rotors would do better than this. I ran a set years ago on my old truck and they did great. Probably try fresh pads and Powerstops this time.
#5
That would be an interesting test buy some cheap rotors and see what happens.
stock wheels and tires? no spacers or anything? no pitting on the caliper pistons? the rubber boots are in good shape?
do you get any directional change when you brake? like it pulls to one side or the other?
Maybe there is some inconstant caliper pressures that may be causing it.
stock wheels and tires? no spacers or anything? no pitting on the caliper pistons? the rubber boots are in good shape?
do you get any directional change when you brake? like it pulls to one side or the other?
Maybe there is some inconstant caliper pressures that may be causing it.
#6
Stock 20" wheels that came on it, 275/55-20 Bridgestone duelers (OEM tires) stops straight as an arrow and I've re-lubed all the sliders and had fresh hardware with the last set of pads, calipers are fairly new. Got new stock ones powdercoated a while back for it. Just friggin shakes like hell. After a couple stops in the morning it gets worse which tells me, it's just heat, and it's just rotors. I know people who had this problem with brand new trucks a few years back. I just want to know the solution. We're taking it on a road trip the week between Christmas/New Year so I need to get this lined out. Probably get some fresh plugs while I'm messing with it.
Last edited by silver-mod-o; Dec 6, 2018 at 06:40 AM.
#7
How do you torque the lugnuts? It may be a myth, but I've heard just zipping them down with an impact can lead to warpage... It conveniently happened to my girlfriends car after discount tire changed her tires, but could be a coincidence. I've always torqued them to spec and haven't had issues yet (knock on wood)







