Just drain the fluid from the pan, you need to change the filter anyway.

 

Did the converter swap this weekend and since I got help from members on the process I thought I would post up some info I learned to help out the next person who does the swap themselves.

Overall not a bad swap, few tools you will need that are possibly outside of the regular tool box.

1. Trans Jack - I rented a floor style since I am currently without a lift.
2. Band Clap pliers - If you have 4x4, the front drive shaft has a CV style boot on the back and it requires a new band clamp after you remove it and the stock clamp requires a pliers to tighten the clamp. Turns out I had the pliers as its the same style clamp used on sprinkler lines.
3. A buddy - Probably the most important tool is a second set of hands, greatly reduces the time to do the converter swap (I did mine by myself) so I had to keep climbing out and turning crank to get converter unbolted and same for rebolting it.

I put the truck up on 4 24" jack stands (not all the way up) to get it up high but it was not high enough for me to sit upright under the truck so I spend a lot of time on my back and on a creeper. I strongly recommend getting it high enough so you can sit upright, will save on your back and make it easier overall.

Removal Process:
Jack truck up get it on stands high enough to sit upright if you can, then removal is like this:

1. remove rear Drive shaft
2. remove exhaust Y pipe - unclip o2 sensors - remover starter and inspection cover as well as roung inspection cover on bottom of belhousing
3. remove front Drive shaft 4x4 - remember you need a new clamp for boot on front shaft and if you have a front sway bar you can remove it as well or at least lower it down to get front shaft out. - It is in the way when unbolting and bolting the converter so I recommend removal
4. drop trans pan and change filter - I also drained transfer case

- the gasket is supposedly reusable - I replaced it with OEM style cost ~$40
- If you want to add a drain plug to your trans pan now is the time to do that as well (I added one to make filter/fluid changes smoother)


5. remove transfer case wire plugs and breather tube also remove all wire plugs to transmission and brackets, shift linkage, fuel line bracket etc

-Trans lines (these must be unbolted and I recommend covering the lines to prevent dirt or dust getting into them - I just zip tied a ziplock bag over the end of them)

6. support trans with trans jack - remove trans cross member - keep it supported till its out, converter removed, new installed, back up in truck and cross member reinstalled
7. remove transfer case - 6 bolts - This requires a second jack (floor jack) under the transfer case or supporting trans with floor jack and some wood blocks and using trans jack to take out transfer case


- This step is for 4x4 of course and not 100% necessary as it could be left attached, however it adds a good deal of weight to the back of trans during removal and will make the top bellhousing bolts more difficult to remove so I dropped mine its only 6 bolts and some negotiating to get it down (friends help would be great here and be careful as it is an odd shapped pig and it wants to jump off the jack - I used ratchet straps to keep it attached to the jack as best i could)
8. Remover converter bolts (3) by rotating crank so you can get the converter bolts out - Another step where a buddy to help is great as you have a narrow window to work in and he can rotate the crank while you remove the bolts
9. remover transmission bellhousing bolts (8 total) - This is not too difficult and if you lower the transmission you can get to the top two bolts with some long extensions and swivel rather easily and remover dipstick.
10. pull transmission backward off of the two dowl pins and lower it - again a buddy would be great help to pull it back off the dowl pins
11. Remover stock converter
12. fill new converter with about a quart of fluid - go slow it takes a while!
13. install new converter using a turning motion as you push it on, it will click 3 times 1 for each set of splines and 1 for pump gear

Installation is essentially opposite of removal and remember to get your converter at the proper measurement from flexplate - 1/8" minimum with converter pushed all the way back into trans and 3/16" max for the gap between the two use the supplied shims if you need them. - Keeping in mind you want the trans bolted to the motor before making this measurement also remember - Do NOT use the belhousing bolts to pull the trans to the motor, take your time and line up the dowl pins and push it as best you can on to those before putting any bolts in. - Another step where a buddy is a great help to move it and line it up and such.

14. After everything is reinstalled REMEMBER - Fill transfer case with recommended fluid
15. Add ATF fluid to trans - converter manufacture will recommend adding 4qts and going from there - I added six qts right away and then topped it off once i got it started and made sure i had no leaks.
16. follow converter manufacture instructions on the final steps for startup etc.

- Circle D has some installation instruction which can be found by google searching "6l80e torque converter install"

This install process leaves out the installation of a trans cooler of your choice (I did a Tru-cool 40k GVW cooler using stock lines and the NAPA fittings) which i had completed and tested for leaks prior to converter swap. But to recap, install was not bad, took 2 days and i did 99% of the work myself and it was my first ever converter swap, as i said above you will need the following:

1. Torque converter of your choice - PI, Yank, Circle D to name a few
2. 3 gallons ATF - I used Ams-oil Synthetic
3. Trans filter and pan gasket - I got the OEM style new - U can reuse yours if u choose
4. Clamp for front drive shaft boot -Dealership charges -$10
5. Good quality trans cooler
6. New trans tune
7. Follow a break-in procedure for the converter

Other Things needed:
1. Buy/Rent a good trans jack - It cost me $90 for two days and it was well worth it
2. Get a buddy to help, the cost of food/beer would be worth it ten fold and will cut several hours from the install time
3. Jack it up high enough so you can sit upright under the truck use some tall jack stands - Will save some back pain and t shirts
4. shop towels are needed of course
5. degreaser for after your done to remove and trans fluid left over after draining the pan


I'm sure i forgot several things and this is not a complete step by step walk through but I wanted to try and help anyone that is considering the install themselves since so many on PT have helped me in the past. I have not yet finished the break in of my converter so I can't speak to the performance of it at hard pulls but it definatly drives different (not in a bad way) and I can tell its going to pull hard now. But anyway hopefully this helps some guys out!

 

Here are some torque Specs needed for the install:

Drive shaft bolts (Front and rear shafts): 18 ft/lbs
Transfer Case to Trans bolts: 37 ft/lbs
Trans Pan Bolts: 80 in/lbs
Trans to engine bolts: 37 ft/lbs
Flywheel to converter bolts: 47 ft/lbs
Transmission mount bolts: 37 ft/lbs

Don't forget loctite on converter bolts!

 

Nice little write up. Cool that you added torque specs to the list.

 

Good write up buddy!

I never took front driveshaft out of transfer case for swap. Did it make it easier to maneuver with it out? I just unbolt from front diff and zip tie to bellhousing hole.
Also if your by yourself instead of turning crank just use big screwdriver threw bottom inspection plate and turn engine over from flex plate teeth.

 

I took it off to get as light as I could for dropping everything, but i never thought to leave it in. So you left the transfer case attached to trans then? I did do the screwdriver trick however, mainly to get the bolts in the right spot once in the inspection cover area.

 

Yea I usually leave the T-case on but that's just a matter of preference.

I'm in for track times on your set up! Similar to the set up I had on mine last year only difference is the 6.2l you have and slightly bigger headers!